SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Forum > Fitting Woes > Vertical ease; also broad back--can I use two sizes? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Vertical ease; also broad back--can I use two sizes?
Mole Princess
Mole Princess
Member since 4/17/12
Posts: 411
Send Message

      



Date: 5/15/13 11:49 AM

I'm making a dress for a friend and before I make the soil separator cloth muslin I wanted to ask two things.

From studying my own garments I'm gaining a sense of how much horizontal wearing ease I like in different places--an inch at the waist, two inches at high hip, four at the hip or six for a more flowing look in a skirt. That will give me a starting point for her. But I'm wondering about wearing ease for vertical measurements. I don't have fitted garments that answer this question for me. If I measure my friend from the bust measuring line to the waist line, front and back, then would the dress fit best if I cut it to the exact same vertical distance, or do we add vertical ease, and if so, how much?

(I know I can shorten or lengthen my muslin as needed but would like to come close on the first cut.)

Also--she may have a broad back while being smaller in front. Does it ever work to simply cut the back a size larger than the front, and use the sleeve from the larger size? Or does this distort the armhole too much?

In this case the sleeve cap even calls for gathers, so a sleeve ending up half a size too big for a hybrid armhole could just be given extra gathers and I would think that would do it. But fools go where angels fear to tread, so I'd love some input.

Thanks!




LauraTS
star
LauraTS  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
California USA
Member since 7/10/06
Posts: 2193
Send Message

      



Date: 5/15/13 6:06 PM

Unless I'm picturing it differently, using a larger size in the back would just make it wider overall; it shouldn't change the back armscye at all. At least I wouldn't do it that way. You're likely right that if it's a gathered sleeve it won't be that fussy and you could make it work.

I've never thought about vertical ease in precisely that fashion; I would think that you would want to use body measurements or close to it, because gravity is going to pull the fabric down a bit as it's worn relative to how the pattern pieces are measured flat, and that should give you the minor amount of extra vertical room one might need.

I look forward to hearing what the experts think.

------
I've moved! Visit my new sewing blog at http://chiralcraft.wordpress.com

Do you sew from KnipMode? Join us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/knipmode_english/

Marie367
Marie367  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Ohio USA
Member since 5/28/11
Posts: 2587
Send Message

      



In reply to Mole Princess <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 5/15/13 10:15 PM

I need a round back and sometimes a broad back too. Going up a size makes everything big-maybe too big. Unless she needs a bigger armhole I would not do that. A broad back adjustment is really easy. Someone a couple of years ago posted the Pattern Alteration help form NMSU Here is the site: NMSU
HTH

Learn To Sew
star
Learn To Sew  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
Member since 4/12/05
Posts: 12150
Send Message

      



In reply to Marie367 <<


Date: 5/16/13 9:23 AM

Great chart.

------
Bernina 630, my much loved main machine
Bernina embroidery module
Pfaff 2036 my back up & travel machine
Babylock Molly, mechanical
Bernina 1200DA serger
Unique Sewing Cabinet 450L

Irina Grace
Irina Grace
Advanced
Member since 7/18/11
Posts: 142
Send Message

      



Date: 5/16/13 11:07 PM

Mole Princess, I do not think you have to add a vertical ease - those measurements have to be precise for getting a good fit, especially on fitted garments.

------
Irina Grace
English is my Second Language

Mole Princess
Mole Princess
Member since 4/17/12
Posts: 411
Send Message

      



Date: 5/17/13 7:40 AM

Thanks for the feedback, everyone! Maybe this is why I've never heard about vertical ease--because there shouldn't be any. I'll cut my muslin that way and see how it fits my friend.

Thank you for the NMSU link, too. I have Sarah Veblen's book and will have fun comparing the two, as it seems that one some issues there may be more than one approach.

This is such a helpful forum--thanks all.

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Vertical ease; also broad back--can I use two sizes?

Merchants on PR

Fitz Like a Glove Ironing Board Cover


Made In Australia
Deals!

Patterns from the Past


vintage sewing patterns
Deals!

Reconstructing History


Reconstructing History
Web site

Nature's Fabrics


Natural & Organic Fabrics
Deals!

Elliott Berman Textiles


Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Online Class
Serging Ahead with your 5 Thread Serger
Serging Ahead with your 5 Thread Serger

Class Details

Online Class
Fun with Fitting - PANTS
Fun with Fitting - PANTS

Class Details

Ottobre Design Magazine 04-2010-7

photo
by: jent

Review
Vogue Patterns 8623

photo
by: Annette1

Review
You Sew Girl Adult Hats Pattern

You Sew Girl Adult Hats Pattern

More Info
PerfectFuse Medium White

PerfectFuse Medium White

More Info

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.