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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > best pants pattern for beginner ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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best pants pattern for beginner
aquamarineerica

aquamarineerica
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Date: 5/15/13 1:06 PM

I've never made a pair of pants before and I was wondering what pattern would be suited for me as a first-timer. I seem to be difficult to fit, as my waist is 28" and my hips are 40. So everything that I wear has to get over my hips first and then my waist has a lot of room! I am 5'6" and my inseam (at least according to RTW) is about 31".

Suggestions please!!!
Erica

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"Decisions are made by those who show up"...Allison Janney, The West Wing

clothingengineer
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Date: 5/15/13 1:39 PM

Judging from your measurements the Sewaholic Thurlow trouser pattern would be a good start. They are drafted especially for pear shaped figures and the instructions are well illustrated. You can skip the welt pockets if you think that's going to be too much to handle the first time around.

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-- Anne

LauraTS
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Date: 5/15/13 6:03 PM

Burda is often also a good bet for fitting pear-sized folks. Try a Burda envelope pattern if you are intimidated by tracing the magazine. Some people find the instructions not the clearest, but I think the great drafting and fit makes them worthwhile.

Sizing wise, you should choose your 'base' pattern size based on your hip measurement, and then use a size at the waist that fits you there. Much easier to do with sewing than it is when you're buying RTW!

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JTink
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Date: 5/15/13 6:18 PM

I agree that Burda has a loose hip fit. But for a beginner the instructions are not very clear.

Simplicity has Amazing Fit patterns that have a "curvy" included. I don't know if this would fit the bill, but you might want to check them out...here are a few I grabbed from the Simplicity site: 1696 and 1918

Also, if this is your first pair of pants, you might want to just go a little easier route in the beginning and not mess with a structured waist band. Simplicity 2414 is kinda neat. It would give you the experience of doing leg seams and crotch curve, without too much worry with hip and waist fit.

marymary86
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Date: 5/15/13 9:24 PM

The instructions on a Burda envelope pattern have been pretty good IMO.

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Date: 5/16/13 6:31 AM

If it is your absolutely first pants pattern we are talking about I would choose to do a PJ pant in say, flannelette and/or a track pant in a fleece fabric. That would give you a baseline understanding of how pants patterns work. Choose a pattern to fit your hip measurement and use elastic [with extra drawstring as an option] to fit to waist.
Only then would I go into a more tailored pattern and start playing with fit issues!

marec
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Date: 5/16/13 9:13 AM

Hi aquamarineerica, My measurements are similar (29" and 39") and I have had good luck with Butterick. I have made pants with simple waistbands, and with no waistbands. I have not made a waistband with loops etc, as I look awful with my shirts tucked in. I have learned to make a muslin every time I try a pants pattern as fitting is crucial and fabric choice really makes a difference. I usually pick a pattern with a shorts and long pant included and make a quick muslin of the shorts, then do the shorts. If they work out, I'll sew the long pants.

Have you read the Singer book "Sewing Pants that Fit"? It is a great reference with clear steps and photos. I use it each time I start a pants fitting project.

Good luck-post your progress!

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Vintage Joan
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Date: 5/16/13 9:44 AM

Quote:
I agree that Burda has a loose hip fit. But for a beginner the instructions are not very clear.

The instructions in Burda envelope patterns are fine. Occasionally they word something a bit oddly, but not much more oddly than other patterns these days do. For those of you who have used the magazine but haven't bought Burda envelope patterns, the instructions are the same kind of thing as special "sewing lesson" pattern they put in many issues of the magazine. I.e. way more detailed, and with lots of illustrations.

Another huge thumbs-up for starting with Burda. Burda pants fit many people beautifully right out of the envelope.


-- Edited on 5/16/13 9:46 AM --

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Date: 5/16/13 11:14 AM

For a beginner, there are two major issues in sewing pants. One is the instructions for how to cut and sew them. The second--and by far the trickier--is fitting them.

In my considerable experience, Burda has the best hip and crotch fit in the business. For decades, I have been a "reader" (test corrector) for human anatomy classes, and Burda's approximation of the female human pelvis is overall the best I have ever seen.

So, if I were advising you, I would suggest a Burda pattern for simple, pull-on pants with no zipper fly or pockets. There are several to choose from in the current catalogue.

Burdas are multisized, and when choosing a size, it is important NOT to choose one 'size.' Almost all of us are one size at the waist, another at the hips, and so on. Every Burda envelope pattern has a procedure somewhere on the pattern sheet for taking your measurements, recording them, and then tracing along the appropriate lines for the sizes that you match the best, gently moving from one size line to the other.

For the best results, follow these instructions exactly, including your height and the outside length from your waist to hem. Burdas are designed for women 5' 7" tall, so many of us who are vertically challenged have to alter for this every time.
-- Edited on 5/16/13 11:20 AM --

SewButterflySew
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Date: 5/16/13 10:02 PM

The first pants I made were a pair of jeans...yeah...I was stupid...or ambitious. They turned out fine, after about 7 or so muslins/tests. I don't really recommend starting the way I did. I would start with a pant that is made to be more loose-fitting.

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