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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Remove fullness from pant legs?

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Remove fullness from pant legs?
Or just start over with new pattern?
stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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KS USA
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Date: 5/17/13 7:21 PM

Last summer I made a pair of costume harem pants from an OOP Simplicity pattern that fit me beautifully. When I did the muslin, I thought they'd make a nice pair of *real* pants, if they were a little less full in the lower leg. I'm already using the XS, so I can't simply blend down (if that's even an option?). The legs are pretty straight, and "What Not to Wear" has me scared of tapering them.

ETA: This is a one-seam (no side seam; inseam only) pattern.

If removing some fullness won't work, does anyone have a recommendation for another easy, no-frills pants pattern? This one fits so well at the waist/hip/thigh--elastic waist but not bunchy (I'm an hourglass-turning-to-pear), drapes smoothly over my high hip fluff, skims the seat. Really, it's kind of ridiculous that a pair of unisex costume bottoms can be this flattering, but when you find a pattern that works, right?!

Suggestions?
Thanks!!
-- Edited on 5/17/13 7:39 PM --

------
~Gem in the prairie

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<


Date: 5/17/13 9:06 PM

There is an article on the Threads site for narrowing pants. It's not just the legs, but the crotch angle changes especially with very narrow pants. I have narrowed a moderately wide tnt pair of pants by taking in at both the hem and knee. It's trial and error to decide
how much to take in at the knee. Both inner and outer seam have to be taken in by the same amount. All pants except very full pants taper at knee and hem. It's just when you go straight to a narrow hem from a full hip without also taking it in at the knee that you get that that ugly tapered pant. Threads has you slit the pant and change the crotch angle while you do it.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Michelle T

Michelle T
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BC CANADA
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Date: 5/17/13 9:13 PM

You can add a side seam, then use a pair of pants the width you want as a template to make them narrower.

------
Proud parent of a Dwight International School Honour Roll Student

PattiAnnJ
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PattiAnnJ
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 5/17/13 9:18 PM

It's been a while, but I have had such pattern (no side seams). The fit was as good as the standard method.

If you are working with the original muslin, why not give your idea a try?

------
I dont give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think its Hell. Harry Truman

"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

simplystitches
simplystitches
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<


Date: 5/17/13 11:12 PM

I'll describe how I decreased the width of a one seam and it worked fine for me. It may depend on how much you want to decrease the pant width and how tightly fitted the top portion is now.

Generally the grain line is on the front leg of the pattern. Using a ruler transfer the grain line so that it runs along the center back of the leg also. Decide how much you want to decrease and fold out half from the front and half from the back. You have to do this top to bottom. If the pants are fairly fitted at the top you now have to add back what you took away at the top. Trace the original top portion onto the traced smaller leg. Use a French curve to blend the slimmer leg into the crotch points of the pant. Because of the nature of a one seam you'll have to do a gradual blend or they don't "look" right. Ask me how I know?!
I would probably blend from the knee up if you need to add a lot to blend. If it's a smaller amount you can probably do it in the last 6-8" or so. Once you've blended one inseam trace it onto the other inseam so they're the same shape.

Make a muslin so you can play with the inseam fit. Too small and they look pulled and too big and they look puffy! It ends up being a balancing game but it's definitely doable. HTH

Debbie

schmammy
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schmammy  Friend of PR
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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 5/18/13 9:22 AM

I just clipped that Threads article to my Evernote notebook "Sewing Pants." Thank you SO much for referencing it. I finally have a TNT pants pattern that works best with a stretch woven, but need to fine tune one for regular woven fabric. Armed with this well-written/illustrated resource, I'm ready to give it a go!

------
Indecision may or may not be my problem. -Jimmy Buffet

http://chihuahuaonmylap.blogspot.com/

Miss Fairchild
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Date: 5/18/13 9:46 AM

I think everyone's suggestions are very good, but I know you're working with one seam instead of two. So a thought occurred to me: If everything fits from the waist to below the hip, and it's just the legs that are giving you trouble, why not make a tuck in the hem half the amount you want to remove, from each leg, and taper it up to nothing near your hipline? I'm wondering if that would throw the leg off grain, though.

I sometimes taper my pantlegs starting at the knee. I work with Lutterloh patterns and sometimes the pantlegs are a little too large. I'll taper them starting at the knee, and going toward the hem. But that's for two seams, though.

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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Patti B
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Patti B  Friend of PR
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<


Date: 5/18/13 12:08 PM

I just compared the straight leg and the tapered leg patterns in Louise Cutting's iconic One Seam Pants pattern and here are a few thoughts. She added to the CF, angling from the original waistline to a new front crotch point about an inch shorter and an inch+ wider than the original front crotch point. On the back, the point was extended also about an inch but the CB seam was essentially the same. From these new points, the leg was narrowed to the hem. I used the XS as a comparison but did note that the amount the points were extended did increase a bit up the size range.

Since you have a pattern that fits so well, I would try drawing off a new version using these changes and see what happens. Should be fun! Hope this helps.

------
Patti

R-r-r-ripping my way to fitting success

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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KS USA
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 5/18/13 6:25 PM

Patti, would it be possible for you to take a photograph of the crotch parts you're talking about? It sounds very sensible, but I'm having trouble visualizing it. (I'm a pants novice.)

I like the idea of adding a side seam; it sounds like it would make fitting a lot simpler.

------
~Gem in the prairie

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