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Forum > Fitting Woes > I don't have woe...yet. ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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I don't have woe...yet.
Sew Confused
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Sew Confused
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Date: 5/20/13 2:10 AM

But I do have a few questions. I'm making a jacket with armhole princess seams. I cut a size 12 based on my high bust measurement (34"). My full bust is 38", a difference of 4". That seems like a pretty huge FBA. Not to mention that the pattern is WAY too small everywhere else. And when I say small, I mean, like, 6" at the waist. I'm looking at the pictures in FFRP, and I'm just not seeing how I can make the FBA and not screw up the grainline of the pattern. And where the heck do I add all those inches at the waistline?

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Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
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petro
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Date: 5/20/13 4:25 AM

The beauty of princess seams is that you can make the curves fit your curves. The FBA method given for this really just provides a guideline but you could freehand draw adding whats needed. You could take a stab at it, cut out a toile leaving yourself an inch seam allowance, and let out/take in as needed.
The grain line on the centre front panel stays on the vertical at the CF, and on the side panel is vertical on your body, that is usually at right angles to the centre part of the hip line. You can also add a small amount of the extra you need on the underarm seam. There's two ways of doing this - first one, just come out three eighths of an inch or so, and alter your sleeve pattern too. That's fine if you need a roomier armhole. Second one, which I use quite a bit for larger cup sizes, is to curve out the side seam at bust level, from the same underarm point, curving back in for the waist. Typically this gives you a curve on the front side seam to ease into a straighter line on the back side seam. If you keep the amounts small its doable and works well.

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Sew Confused
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Date: 5/20/13 9:25 AM

I am just so confused (heh). The pattern envelope says the finished bust measurement of the jacket is 39", so it seems like the stinking jacket should fit around me, and I should just be doing an FBA and adding some wearing ease, but I have a gap of THREE INCHES to get the center fronts to meet...and it would still be skin tight! I wonder if this is just not a pattern that's meant to be for me. Although it does fit beautifully across the shoulders, lol.
-- Edited on 5/20/13 10:43 AM --

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Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
- Jeff Bezos, Amazon.com founder

Visit my blog at www.sewconfused.blogspot.com

misschris
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Date: 5/20/13 10:39 AM

I usually have a 6 inch gap across the bust if the shoulders fit nicely. Big fba every time I make anything.
Follow the instructions in FFRP and you'll be fine. Adding the extra at the waist shouldn't be a problem - you'll probably get some extra from the fba, the rest you can split between each seam around the jacket. Don't worry about distorting the armscye, as long as you're not changing the length of the seamline, it all sews together properly.

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chris

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Sew Confused
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Date: 5/20/13 10:46 AM

Okay, I am just going to try it, but I have little confidence in my ability to make it work.

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Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
- Jeff Bezos, Amazon.com founder

Visit my blog at www.sewconfused.blogspot.com

skae
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Date: 5/20/13 11:50 AM

what pattern is that? we would like to see!

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Ecclesiastes 11:7,8 Nothing on earth is more beautiful than the morning sun. Even if you live to a ripe old age, you should try to enjoy each day, because darkness will come and will last a long time. (CEV)

sewsally
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Subject: I dont have woe...yet. Date: 5/20/13 12:09 PM

I would go up a size. 1 inch bust ease is not enough for a jacket.

If the shoulders are too long -- that is a relatively easy change.
-- Edited on 5/20/13 12:10 PM --

AdaH
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Date: 5/20/13 12:35 PM

I also found the whole size thing confusing until I realied that I had to stop thinking about the FBA until I had the circumferences figured out.
based on your high bust you need a sie 12, so you cut a size 12 at the shoulders and the arm hole. at the side seam you need to keep cutting out to the size 16 (38" bust). then whatever you need at the waist. You didn't say what size you are at the waist.
Now that you have your circumferences you can adjust for the FBA.
An FAB isn't meant to adjust for circumferences. It is used to adjust for depth.
Once I figured that out things got a whole lot easier.

-- Edited on 5/20/13 12:37 PM --

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Ada

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In reply to sewsally <<


Date: 5/20/13 1:45 PM

If I go up one size, I will be swimming in it in the upper chest and shoulders.

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Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
- Jeff Bezos, Amazon.com founder

Visit my blog at www.sewconfused.blogspot.com

Sew Confused
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In reply to AdaH <<


Date: 5/20/13 1:46 PM

Doesn't that change the size of the arm scye?

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Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
- Jeff Bezos, Amazon.com founder

Visit my blog at www.sewconfused.blogspot.com

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