Member since 3/30/13
Date: 5/20/13 5:11 PM
Ok. Help me figure out how to deal with the 1" seam allow built in, my head is hurting from trying to sort it out....
I cut a size 20 based on pattern envelope in inexpensive cotton fashion fabric which i am starting to like. I did my side seam 1" per instructions. Then I still had to take in the sides another half inch each. Both the front and back are cut using the slim pattern.
Which means my sewing line is at size 14.
The back of the pattern fits me really well, if I take in that extra inch and sew 1/2" from the new edge.
The front slim pattern piece does not fit me well at all. There seems to be too much fabric in the front and the fabric drapes funny.
I comparing it to a pair of RTw that fits like a dream other than too short (I'm 6' tall so EVERYTHING RTW is too short, or super expensive), and it looks like if I can recut the front an inch less it will take out the extra. It might be a crotch angle issue which I just have not determined yet....
Do I keep and use the pattern (size 14-22) I have, cutting a size 16 and using a half inch seam allowance, or do I grab the smaller size (6-12) then cut probably a 12 and use that s.a.? Simplicity is going on sale again at Joann's, so I don't mind paying another buck to get the next size down.
I get the idea of having a full inch s.a. To help with fitting, but for me it is causing me to go cross eyed! I think when I get this all sorted out, I need to trace off what worked on to tracing paper and put the actual pattern away or I will get dang confused.
Member since 4/3/10
Date: 5/21/13 7:43 AM
The one inch seam allowance on those AF patterns have baffled many a sewist. I've seen reviews stating the pattern ran large and wonder if people even noticed the side seam allowance was wider.
You've probably already decided what to do. I would encourage you to do what seems the easiest. It's possible to use one size for back, another for front.
The pattern also allows you to attach the waistband and fit that along with the side seam. If you do this all in a muslin, you could then use the muslin as your pattern, if it hasn't stretched.
I've had good luck with that pattern. Hope you get some great fitting pants for your hard work!
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson
Member since 3/30/13
1 member likes this.
Date: 5/21/13 10:49 AM
Thanks! I think for a buck I just might buy the smaller size and compare fronts and see what to do at that point.
I also realized in the middle of the night that I had cut the crotch points a little longer than the pattern not knowing if I would need the extra. I guess I better go chop off the side seam and fix the crotch points and see how that works before really cutting the front down too much.
And when I have figured it all out, I am going to transfer the pattern markings to brown paper or something else to keep it all clear when I make all my other pants.
The cheap fabric I am using has grown on me, so I am hoping to make this muslin work as real pants I bought it b/c it was cheap and there was going to be no problem in tossing it if necessary. So much for the tossing desire.
I will post a pic of my crazy stripe pants when I am done and do the pattern review.
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