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Forum > Patterns and Notions > Help needed for Cambie pattern ( Moderated by Sharon1952)

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Help needed for Cambie pattern
Making a cambie blouse
MiniandMerky
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MiniandMerky
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UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 9/15/12
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Date: 5/22/13 5:21 AM

I need some help. I want to make a blouse using the bodice of the sewaholic cambie pattern.

I've lengthened it by cutting at the cut line and adding to the sides so that it's not so fitted but am a bit stuck with the dart arrangement.

The original pattern has normal triangular shaped bust darts that go to the waist. Can I just make them into diamond shaped darts to compensate for the fact that I've lengthened the whole bodice?

I'm very new to modifying patterns so any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

IreneDAdler
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IreneDAdler
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New York USA
Member since 6/12/12
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Date: 5/22/13 8:57 AM

I think the answer might depend on what kind of fit you want. If you want to make a blouse that skims over your bust and fits loosely around the waist, I would considering taking the original pattern and pivoting the bust dart to the side seam, then just elongating the hem to the length you want. Here's a good tutorial from Gertie on how to pivot a dart. But if you want a blouse that is more closely fitted, like a corset-style, then yeah you will need a diamond-shaped dart. Or if you have a dressform, you could cut out the original pattern in muslin, not sew the darts up, put it on your dressform, and pinch out fabric so that it fits how you want it to, and make those the new darts.

Deviating from the printed pattern is definitely scary at first, I totally get you But I recently learned from a Kenneth King Craftsy course: "A pattern is printed on paper, not written in stone;" which has really helped me get over that fear. As long as you trace the original onto new paper so that you can always go back to it if you make a mistake, there's literally nothing to lose by playing around with pattern alterations :)

I don't know about your personal preferences, but for myself it helped a lot to learn a little about the fundamentals of pattern-drafting so that I can more easily visualize how I need to change the pattern to get it to do what I want.

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KathleenS
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KathleenS  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/23/13 7:15 AM

It will be a diamond-shaped dart or a bit shorter, depending on how long the top is, but the lower half of the dart will probably be different from the half you've already got. I would probably fit it as IreneDAdler suggests, by sewing the dart as far as the waistline and then pinching (and pinning) out the excess below that to fit, either on a dressform or on me. Obviously you'd need a helper for the back.

The other option is to borrow the bodice shape and darts from another top pattern (maybe New Look 6808 that you made) and just add the Cambie neckline and straps onto that. (So basically it would be the other pattern, but the details would make it look like a Cambie.)

Hope that helps.

MiniandMerky
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MiniandMerky
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UNITED KINGDOM
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Date: 5/23/13 4:24 PM

Thank you both, all of the tips are really helpful. I don't have a dress form unfortunately so I think I'll make a toile (or two!) to see how it turns out. I do like the idea of using the 6808 as the base (I know it's fits right) and adding the sleeves from the cambie - I lay my first attempt at redrafting the cambie over the top of the 6808 and they are quite similar. Thanks again!

DonnaH
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DonnaH
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Date: 5/23/13 4:51 PM

Another option is to also sew the waistband and draft a peplum for the part below the band!

Burdastyle Peplum Tutorial
-- Edited on 5/23/13 4:52 PM --

IreneDAdler
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IreneDAdler
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In reply to DonnaH <<


Date: 5/23/13 5:12 PM

That's a really cute idea!

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MiniandMerky
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MiniandMerky
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In reply to DonnaH <<


Date: 5/25/13 2:28 AM

Thanks Donna. I thought of that too - but I'm not a huge fan of peplums, mainly because I have big hips for my frame and peplums tend to make them look even bigger!

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