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Forum > Fitting Woes > Another FBA situation ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Another FBA situation
just can't get it
Rhoda K
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Rhoda K  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/25/13 1:02 PM

I'm working on NL6895. I like the style and the reviews have been good. My version shows an obvious need for extra room in the center front bust area. I cut a 12 at the shoulders going out to an 18 at the bust. The top fits fine everywhere else, so how can I add the extra room needed without adding more around my middle? I'm thinking that as soon as I post this the light bulb will go off . . . or not The finished bust on the size 18 is 47'' - my full bust is 44. I measured the pattern pieces and they are correct.

ETA: for some reason I'm thinking my usual pivot & slide FBA won't work on this. What am I not seeing?


-- Edited on 5/25/13 1:04 PM --

JTink
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JTink
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Date: 5/25/13 2:25 PM

You could go down one size(especially around the neck/shoulder area) and do an FBA. I use the method found in Fit For Real People. Use your high bust measurement.

To find out how much you need in the FBA, pin your pattern pieces together(after trimming out your size) and slip on the pieces. Have your shoulder and side seam straight and try to comfortably bring the center front of the pattern to your center front without pulling the pattern. The area between your center and the pattern center is the amount of FBA you add. I add an inch to my patterns.

meleliza
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Date: 5/25/13 2:36 PM

The trouble with this kind of top on a full bust is that you can't in fact add extra room for the bust without adding to the middle. Without waist shaping, the top is designed to hang loosely. However, if you have a full bust, this often results in a tent like mind of top. Either you deal with it or pick a different style that has some wasit definition.

That being said, you might have more luck adding a dart here to give you the room over your bust but not add so much bulk to the middle. The method in Fit for Real People for FBA in a dart less bodice will work. While the dart will change the style lines, it may also give you the shape you're looking for. You can add alittleshaping at the sides and at the center back.

Also, to get the best feedback, show a full Length muslin shot. From your close up, it's not easy to see what other fit problems there might be here.

I like having a few tops like this for the summer even if they make me look a little larger in the waist than I am because the loose fit is so very comfortable on sticky days. Also, I find that I like the loose coverage for days when I don't feel my thinnest.
-- Edited on 5/25/13 2:40 PM --

------
Melanie

Rhoda K
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Rhoda K  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/25/13 3:20 PM

Thanks to you both for your responses. After I posted my initial question, I tried the pivot and slide and think it might just work. Sometimes, I do tend to overthink these things

JTink, if I go down another size I think it would be too narrow in the neckline/shoulder area, I did think about that though.

Mel, when I did this muslin, I was pleased that it fit nicely around the middle and didn't look like a tent, as many do. I do have too much middle and I like loose tops like this in our heat here.

When I compared my new traced out pattern with the FBA to the one I used for the first muslin, it fits the same as the first muslin in the mid section and I'll get the extra room I need in the bust area - I hope! After all that's what FBA's are all about, right? I'll report back - probably tomorrow. Sometimes I just wonder Thanks again.

marymary86
marymary86
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Date: 5/25/13 4:50 PM

Sham's blog shows how to add to the bust without adding to the middle.
She's a genius.

I'll search for a link ...

Sham's advice for the uber busty

It's a big read but worth it. Don't miss "pictures of alterations" towards the bottom. She shows how she altered a Style Arc pattern without adding to the waist.
-- Edited on 5/25/13 4:53 PM --

------
Mary


Rhoda K
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Rhoda K  Friend of PR
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In reply to marymary86 <<


Date: 5/25/13 6:20 PM

Thanks Mary - I usually follow her blog so I'll check it out.

MarciaBrady
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Date: 5/26/13 0:09 AM

I use the FBA method in The Vogue Sewing Book. The verticle slash cuts through the waist dart. You do your slash and spread for the amount you need, and then redraw your darts. Redraw the waist dart, but keep the dart legs coming from the same place. This results in a larger dart and when sewn together your waist stays the same size, while increasing the bust. You could also divide the dart into two smaller ones. Does this make any sense? You should just read the Vogue book instead! lol. Anyway, this is what I do, and it works great!

MarciaBrady
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Date: 5/26/13 0:14 AM

Sorry. I didn't look at the pattern you are making before responding, so my advice is kind of useless. Maybe you can redraw the side seams from below the bust area. I hope you figure it out. Good luck! 😊

Hauteaway
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Hauteaway  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/26/13 11:05 PM

The advice here is useful for me too, so thanks! I'm working with McCall's 6563, which is has just a front and back pattern piece. It has great reviews but most are making a S or M size and I'm tapering from a L at the shoulders to an XXL at the hips. Anything I do to accommodate my bust - which is larger than the XXL measurements - affects the sleeves and the bottom width. I'm probably going to add darts, but I've also considered chopping the front piece into three, adding a shoulder-to-waist princess seam. I'm currently separated from my Bernina but when we get back together I'll finish this up and write a review.

------
YAN: Yet Another Nancy

Rhoda K
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Rhoda K  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/27/13 11:25 AM

Update - I did a pivot and slide FBA which added 2'' on either side and included the 5/8'' center back seam and it's still pulling. I don't know that I'll go any further with this and just work on another top. I feel like I've wasted too much time on this already.

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