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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > best way to ease ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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best way to ease
Calendria
Calendria
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Date: 5/25/13 7:05 PM

what is your favorite or best way to ease a sleeve?

I have ALWAYS sucked at this hehe.

Speech girl
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Speech girl  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/25/13 7:32 PM

I sew a longer stitch in the seam allowance of the sleeve cap, pressing my finger against the back of the presser foot-- I think it's called finger easing. The sleeve cap ends up evenly eased. Then I pin the sleeve to the armhole, adjust if I need to, and sew.

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Kim
formerly mikkim
http://girlwithatimemachine.wordpress.com/

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 5/25/13 7:37 PM

Stitch with the sleeve next to the feed dogs.

------
I dont give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think its Hell. Harry Truman

"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

Marie367
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In reply to Calendria <<


Date: 5/25/13 8:28 PM

It depends on the fabric. For a woven, I was taught to use two rows of stitching like I would to gather; you are not going to gather it of course. I sew the rows of stitching just inside the stitching line a little past the area that needs easing. Match dots and notches. Then lightly pull the stitching to help you ease the rest. I hope this makes sense.

Vireya
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Date: 5/25/13 9:11 PM

If you need easing rather than gathering, the finger method Speech Girl mentioned is great! Try it on a scrap of fabric and you will be surprised how well it works.

marymary86
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In reply to Speech girl <<


Date: 5/25/13 9:13 PM

This is how I do it. After I run the line of stitching around the top of the sleeve, I pin it in place and stitch it with the fuller side next to the feed dogs.

I only run the line of easing from notch to notch over the top of the sleeve.

------
Mary


Pamela R
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Date: 5/26/13 9:59 AM

I sew in a piece of bias...made of soft to crisp fabric, depending on the fashion fabric that you are using. Cut it about 1" wide, and the length needed to go around the cap of the sleeve.
Pull it so that it stretches between the notches around the cap of the sleeve. Stitch with a very long stitch.
This method works for tailoring or soft blouse fabric and you do not have to ease anything, just pull it into place, and you have no gathers or tucks to deal with.

lalalauren
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lalalauren
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Date: 5/26/13 10:16 AM

Like Pamela R, I have had success with using a piece of bias-cut fabric to ease the sleeve in. I'm a beginner sewer and I've only set a few sleeves but I found that the method outlined in this PR thread worked a treat! If you need a more visual explanation, I really found Gertie's video useful. I used polar fleece for my sleeve and it worked well. I hope it works for you

------
beaglesbakinganddressmaking.wordpress.com

Sewinglady1947
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Date: 5/26/13 4:24 PM

My favorite is to put the sleeve next to feed dogs and ease the sleeve while holding the garment a little tight. It usually always work.

------
sewing grammy

Fannie Rebecca
Fannie Rebecca  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/26/13 5:21 PM

I sew three lines of easing stitch. The first two are done as per the usual directions using a long stitch on the machine. I add a line on the OUTSIDE of the stitching line. This easing would be visible on the sleeve if I didn't rip it out. This won't work on a material like velvet or leather which shows the marks.

The additional easing stitch is pulled up like the others. It helps me to prevent unintentional gathers in the seam. I carefully rip this out from the inside after the armhole seam is to my liking.

Many sewists say some patterns have too much sleeve ease. If you can make a trial sleeve in a similar weight of fabric, it might save you some distress later.

Also read this tip:

http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/review/readreview.pl?ID=734

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