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Not sure what to do
Learn To Sew
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Date: 5/28/13 3:30 PM

I have been working on this shirt, Simplicity 5801. This shirt has a back yoke and I love this type of shirt. It can be casual or fancy, depending on the fabric. Short or long sleeved.

In 2005 I made this shirt for a class project. We cut the collar/yokes in an 18 and the F/B/S in a size 20. I could not wear it then, but since then I have lost some weight and do wear the shirt. Fits ok, but have liked more room in the bicep. I made it short sleeved. My purple shirt had no FBA, as the teacher at the time did not know how to do one, but she learned in 2009.

I went to Fit Review last summer and had it tissue fitted all over again. I have changed over the years and wanted an FBA in the shirt this time. This time we started with a size 16. Marta and altered the front in a Y-style FBA with a 3 inch increase. We added to the B sides ĺ inch from the B when it met the yoke to the hem. We did not alter the yoke---or sleeves---and I do not know why. The sleeves fit fine in the armhole. This one is also short sleeved.

I have the shirt over half completed. I lost my hand mirror, so when trying it on, I could not see my back before the sleeves went in. I donít know if it fit back there or not. I expected it to fit well when the sleeves were in. It did not. After I sewed in both sleeves, I tried it on. What a tight fit. It was a struggle to get it on and harder to get it off.

The Front fits nicely and looks good. The sleeves are too tight. Maybe the armholes are a little too low. Not sure. Most likely I need to slash and add tissue at the bicep.

I do not know how much ease I like in a shirt. My RTW shirts are either too big or a little too small. No help there. I also have/donít have a broad back. It changes on me. I think I needed the adjustment, but Marta told me I did not. As this was well over a year ago, I must need one again. Some times I do and some times I donít need it. I always need a round upper back.

I want to work with the pattern again, as it is years out of print. I have a traced version for the larger Back sizes only. The sleeves I think I can figure out how to increase, but how do I increase the yoke? I have FFRP and Fast Fit, and so far have not found the info for this in the books. It has to be in there somewhere.

We cut the original pattern down. I should have traced it first!!! Granted I cut most of it down in 2005 in an 18/20. Then in 2012 it was cut to a 16.

Iíd like to make the shirt in an 18 and see if this is the correct size. I will attend Fit Review next month and we will work with this pattern one more time.. In the meantime, any suggestions on what I can do to the pattern to increase the yokes? I do not want to cut the new green shirt up until Marta sees it on me next month.

Simplicity 5801

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Bernina 630, my much loved main machine
Bernina embroidery module
Pfaff 2036 my back up & travel machine
Babylock Molly, mechanical
Bernina 1200DA serger
Unique Sewing Cabinet 450L

meleliza
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Date: 5/28/13 4:35 PM

I wonder if it wouldn't help to start from scratch? It sounds like you've made so many changes to this that its hard to see what you're doing. Why not trace off a fresh unaltered copy, measure yourself again and go from there? Sometimes I think I know my measurements but I've forgotten. Or they change.

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Melanie

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In reply to meleliza <<


Date: 5/28/13 5:03 PM

I wanted to try a Palmer/Pletsch McCall's pattern for the next Fit Review in June. In the meantime, I want to make my Simplicity current one work for me. The front is fine. It has to be the yoke or the back of the sleeves. Maybe both? I'm still thinking about it.

Since I have 2 new uncut patterns that both have a yoke, I was thinking I'd compare the size 16 of those to my current one and see what I can learn. I can always trace the yoke off in a larger size and try again. This would give me an idea of size and if it is too small still, to figure out the broad back I need. No collar on the next trial one. Just want to find the right size pattern to work with. I have definately changed in the back and this has to be my problem.

I am stubborn and want to learn from the Simplicity pattern. Changing patterns has not worked in the past, so why do that again??? I tried that a few years ago and it did not help. I went from pattern to pattern to pattern. Not this time. I will figure this out. (I said I am stubborn )

I need to find out what I like, how much ease I like and so forth. I actually do not know how much I like. Enough to be comfy and have some extra.

------
Bernina 630, my much loved main machine
Bernina embroidery module
Pfaff 2036 my back up & travel machine
Babylock Molly, mechanical
Bernina 1200DA serger
Unique Sewing Cabinet 450L

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Date: 5/28/13 8:24 PM

Just for the fun of it I got out one of my new McCall's 4079 patterns, for a loose fitting shirt. The 4079 is much looser in the chest area. The Simplicity is 43 1/2 inches when finished at a size 16---not including the 3 inches we added for the FBA. That makes it 46 1/2 inches. Only about 3 inches of ease for the shirt. Not enough.

The finished size of Large on the McCall's is 51 inches. Much looser of a fit. I laid out the Simplicity yoke piece then laid the M yoke piece on top. Granted they are shaped differently, as the M is more of a dropped shoulder and the armhole is very flat. The pattern is folded in half at the Fold line at CB. The difference to the armhole is huge. The M is over 2 1/2 inches wider. This is one reason the Simplicity is too small on me. I need to work with a size 18 at least and maybe a 20. Probably the 20 or add a broad back alteration somewhere.

Not in the neck, but from neck to shoulder. The neck fits, so lets not mess with it.

When the Simplicity was tissue fit last summer, we added 1 inch CB seam on the Back piece. From the side seam we started out at 1/4 inch, quickly increasing to 1/2 per side seam. I don't think this is enough for a comfy fit. I need a larger size to start with or a broad back or something.

I never realized the Simplicity was NOT a loose fitting shirt. It clearly is not. After all, I made one 8 years ago and I thought the reason it did not fit was no FBA. My last one had a large FBA, but I must have changed across the back, and need to start with either an 18 or possibly a 20. That 16 is never going to work!

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Bernina 630, my much loved main machine
Bernina embroidery module
Pfaff 2036 my back up & travel machine
Babylock Molly, mechanical
Bernina 1200DA serger
Unique Sewing Cabinet 450L

jacquiJB
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Date: 5/29/13 1:35 AM

I can't help you with the fitting issues, but I just wanted to say that, if you want to purchase another copy of your pattern, there are a few on ebay listed at quite reasonable prices. :)

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In reply to jacquiJB <<


Date: 5/29/13 9:31 AM

I am thinking of doing that today. I think another copy of the pattern is needed. Thanks for the heads up.

------
Bernina 630, my much loved main machine
Bernina embroidery module
Pfaff 2036 my back up & travel machine
Babylock Molly, mechanical
Bernina 1200DA serger
Unique Sewing Cabinet 450L

Mole Princess
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Date: 5/29/13 10:22 AM

I'd also suggest studying your too-big and your too-small RTW, since in between is where you will want to land. I have exactly that situation as I'm between sizes in RTW. I've learned a lot by measuring shirts, patterns, and myself and now have a better idea of what finished dimensions fit me how.

I've also realized I actually don't want all my shirts to be exactly the same size. A smaller one (I don't mean tight, just smaller) is dressier but less comfortable. Larger is more comfortable but less dressy. There are times for both! Also there are times I want to layer a shirt over a tee or turtleneck and other shirts where I wouldn't do that, or seldom; needs to be larger if I will.

I hope your second try goes as you would like. BTW I believe you can tell whether or not you need a FBA by how much your RTW shirts pull up in the front and the hem viewed from the side rises from front to back. If that doesn't happen, either you don't need a FBA or the RTW shirt happens to be drafted for a fuller busted lady and you are one (in which case learn from the shirt!)

Happy fitting!

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In reply to Mole Princess <<


Date: 5/29/13 10:55 AM

I need the FBA, period. I can't avoid it. They are not that hard to do and they do make things look better. I like to rotate the side dart to the shoulders, as I hate the side darts. One side is higher than the other. They will measure the same on the pattern and fabric, but on me, one will become higher. So, rotating to the shoulder gets the dart fullness, but no dart. I do pleats that I like better. I only learned this in the last couple of months that pleats are better on me than darts. I do often need a shoulder dart in the back, though.

I will study my RTW more and see what I can learn. Yes, a casual shirt often has a dropped sleeve and much more ease than a dressy blouse, even though the pattern is similar and the style nearly identical.

------
Bernina 630, my much loved main machine
Bernina embroidery module
Pfaff 2036 my back up & travel machine
Babylock Molly, mechanical
Bernina 1200DA serger
Unique Sewing Cabinet 450L

JTink
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In reply to Learn To Sew <<
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Date: 5/29/13 12:43 PM

You have a lot more patients than I do I too would put this pattern aside for a while and get one of the P&P patterns. Here are three of them that might work: 6613, 6750, 6076. Connie Crawford tends to add a bit more room in her patterns too.

SouthernStitch
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In reply to JTink <<
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Date: 5/29/13 1:51 PM

I agree, I'd do the same. The P & P patterns are excellent as fit guides, as are the Connie Crawford patterns.
Learn is there anyway that you can post photos?

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Bernina 780, and 530
Juki TL2010
Babylock Evolution
Singer 403a

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