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What the heck am I missing?
Grainlines ~ugh~
kowgiirl.up
kowgiirl.up
Intermediate
Oregon USA
Member since 12/28/12
Posts: 212
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Date: 6/2/13 7:33 PM

I need some serious help.
This is non-stretch denim that I am TRYING to making into a muslin for a pair of jeans.

I pulled the cross grain thread thinking that would help me to line the fabric up. Once I lined up the selvages I ended up with what you see in the pics below.

I am totally gun shy to lay out the pattern and cut since the last time I did my muslin legs was all twisted and I ended up making some nice dust rags from them

Would you go ahead and lay out the fabric pieces making sure the lengthwise grain is lined up correctly with the pattern?

Any input appreciated and will save my sanity or at least keep me from smashing the heck out of something

(Pocket just for reference)







-- Edited on 6/2/13 8:21 PM --

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Runs with scissors
Universal Deluxe Zig Zag from the 60's
Singer Quantum Stylist 9960
Singer Treadle 127 Egyptian
Juki MO 735

BriarRose
BriarRose
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USA
Member since 10/30/10
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Date: 6/2/13 8:51 PM

That's quite a warp; looks like it was wrapped on the bolt off grain. I've never tried it but recently read that you can seam across the cut edges, wash the fabric, dry it, and see an improvement in off-grain fabric.

Anyone tried this?

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I've quit fighting my inner demons. We're on the same side now.

It's just fabric; we can out-think it.

sings2high
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sings2high  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/2/13 9:10 PM

I agree with BriarRose. One other thing - before tossing into the washer, work your way from one end of the fabric to the other, stretching the fabric on one bias, then the opposite. If you can dry it in a dryer, do that. If you must dry it on a line, make it as level a line as possible. Hang it so the selvages hang vertically and parallel to each other. If the fabric is dragging, hang it across two lines, with a deep dip in the middle, like the letter M. Accept that some fabrics will never hang straight if they've been tentered (finished with chemicals and stretched) offgrain. I've found this most often with lightweight inexpensive apparel fabrics, not so much with denim.
-- Edited on 6/2/13 9:29 PM --

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Measure twice, cut once. While this saying is useful in many ways, I have no qualms about editing my posts.

UFOs completed in 2014: 1 - woohoo! finished my oldest UFO - an apron cut out in the mid-80s with a pattern from the mid-40s! and the bias binding promptly disintegrated in the wash! Ok, it was from my Great-Grandmother's stash, which means it was bought anytime from the 1910's to 1970's.
Projects started recently completed in 2014: 4
New Projects started in 2014: 5
Stash:
sewn in 2014: 5
bought in 2014: 17.25

I know...I'm procrastinating.

kowgiirl.up
kowgiirl.up
Intermediate
Oregon USA
Member since 12/28/12
Posts: 212
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Date: 6/2/13 9:21 PM

This fabric is 6 yards long and 31 inches wide. Would/should I pull a (crosswise) thread at the other unfinished end, then serge it, then wash and dry again?

I have washed this fabric 3 times and dried twice, then ironed with steam to get the wrinkles out to prep for laying the pattern out.
At first I thought maybe my front loader washer was the problem since it wrings the heck out of my clothes and fabric. But then I remembered that I pulled a thread before I washed so that wasn't it. Jeepers this is making me mad.

-- Edited on 6/2/13 9:22 PM --

------
Runs with scissors
Universal Deluxe Zig Zag from the 60's
Singer Quantum Stylist 9960
Singer Treadle 127 Egyptian
Juki MO 735

kowgiirl.up
kowgiirl.up
Intermediate
Oregon USA
Member since 12/28/12
Posts: 212
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In reply to sings2high <<


Date: 6/2/13 9:27 PM

Quote: sings2high
One other thing - before tossing into the washer, work your way from one end of the fabric to the other, stretching the fabric on one bias, then the opposite. If you can dry it in a dryer, do that.

I would bias stretch, then wash and dry, correct?
Once the garment is sewn and wash/dried again, you don't think it will go back to the original warped state do you?

------
Runs with scissors
Universal Deluxe Zig Zag from the 60's
Singer Quantum Stylist 9960
Singer Treadle 127 Egyptian
Juki MO 735

sings2high
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sings2high  Friend of PR
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USA
Member since 11/25/11
Posts: 367
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Date: 6/2/13 9:37 PM

The lengthwise grain is the more important. Yes, pull a thread on each end. And I think I've edited my previous post since you read it. I realized my error while hanging something to dry on my porch, LOL.
Yes, bias stretch, then wash and dry.
Since you've already tried washing and drying and steam pressing, try washing, then putting in the dryer for 10 minutes to get it really hot, then hanging on two or three lines. Equalize the length of the dips and the two ends and keep the selvages lined up.
Once dry, and before you press, do another bias stretch up and down the length, moving about 12" up for each stretch.
When you press the fabric, do NOT slide the iron at all. I know it takes far longer to do it this way, but if you have issues with the grain, sliding the iron will only accentuate them.

------
Measure twice, cut once. While this saying is useful in many ways, I have no qualms about editing my posts.

UFOs completed in 2014: 1 - woohoo! finished my oldest UFO - an apron cut out in the mid-80s with a pattern from the mid-40s! and the bias binding promptly disintegrated in the wash! Ok, it was from my Great-Grandmother's stash, which means it was bought anytime from the 1910's to 1970's.
Projects started recently completed in 2014: 4
New Projects started in 2014: 5
Stash:
sewn in 2014: 5
bought in 2014: 17.25

I know...I'm procrastinating.

kowgiirl.up
kowgiirl.up
Intermediate
Oregon USA
Member since 12/28/12
Posts: 212
Send Message

      



In reply to sings2high <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 6/2/13 10:54 PM

I can't hang the fabric as I don't have the room (or clothesline). I guess I will pull the thread and serge, then stretch the bias like you have suggested and then wash, dry and iron with no sliding.
I sure hope this works as I would love to have a pair of jeans that I sewed before I croak .

------
Runs with scissors
Universal Deluxe Zig Zag from the 60's
Singer Quantum Stylist 9960
Singer Treadle 127 Egyptian
Juki MO 735

sewinglizzie

sewinglizzie  Friend of PR
Advanced
Ontario CANADA
Member since 9/24/04
Posts: 24
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Date: 6/2/13 11:15 PM

I had a similar situation once with denim. I stretched on the bias as suggested to straighten the edges, then cut out and sewed up some jeans.

After washing them the first time, the legs developed a serious twist that I could never correct.

My conclusion was - if there is a grain problem after relaxing the fabric (washing and drying for example), don't try to fix it by stretching the fabric. You can't overcome the problem. Just cut the pattern out with the fabric in its relaxed, but skewed state.

Elizabeth

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Sewinglizzie

Ms. McCall
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Ms. McCall  Friend of PR
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Member since 3/2/06
Posts: 215
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Date: 6/3/13 1:53 AM

I think that the thing you're missing is that this is a twill weave and not all the threads are running with the selvedge or the cross grain, the weave is more complex than that. The lines that the dye has formed down the fabric look to be fairly parallel to the selvedge.
-- Edited on 6/3/13 1:55 AM --

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BrownPaperPattern.blogspot.com

Lindy Ann
Lindy Ann  Friend of PR
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Kansas USA
Member since 1/26/12
Posts: 98
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In reply to kowgiirl.up <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 6/3/13 10:30 AM

I just finished a jeans jacket out of a big name designer brand stretch denim. It is lavender with a lovely appearance and feel. After I bought it, I saw how skewed it was, maybe 4 inches off per yard. I tried most of the usual techniques for straightening it out, though I didn't want to use a hot iron because of the Lycra content. Nothing improved it.

I went ahead, cut the pattern out with the fabric in its skewed state and sewed it up. It didn't cause any real trouble in sewing. And the result looks fine and has worn fine so far. I can still see the off-grain in the fabric if I look for it, but I doubt anyone else would notice it.

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