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Forum > Sergers, Coverstitch and Blindhemmers > What stitch to use? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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What stitch to use?
Sew Confused
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Sew Confused
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Date: 6/2/13 9:12 PM

Looking ahead to my next project, I'm going to be joining stretch lace to a cotton lycra knit. What kind of stitch am I going to want to use on my serger to make the seam as unobtrusive as possible?

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Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
- Jeff Bezos, Amazon.com founder

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Pj3g
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Pj3g  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/3/13 1:58 PM

Because you used the word 'joining' I will assume you will be attaching the lace to the edge of the fabric. My blind hem serger foot says it is also for attaching lace and to use the right needle with a 3 thread overlock or a flatlock stitch and a stitch length of 4-5. You don't need a blind hem foot to join the lace--just lay the right side of the lace on the right side of the fabric's edge and attach the lace with either of those stitches. If you do the overlock, I would topstitch along the edge of the fabric with your regular SM to hold the stitching beneath flat. While doing this topstitching hold the fabric taunt and pull it ever so slightly from behind the needle as you sew. Use a teflon foot if you have one (or a roller foot) and a 3 mm stitch. This will give that topstitching some stretch too.

Now if you have a coverstitch, then you'd use a wide 2 needle coverstitch to attach the lace.



-- Edited on 6/3/13 2:05 PM --

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Thank you Lord for my Mother who taught me the joy of sewing, for my Father who encouraged my sewing, for the talent You gave me to sew, and for all the special people in my life to sew for.

Sew Confused
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Date: 6/3/13 2:06 PM

I think perhaps I wasn't clear. I'll be making a regular seam.

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Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
- Jeff Bezos, Amazon.com founder

Visit my blog at www.sewconfused.blogspot.com

Pj3g
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In reply to Sew Confused <<


Date: 6/3/13 2:40 PM

Quote: Sew Confused
I think perhaps I wasn't clear. I'll be making a regular seam.

If the seam is joining lace to fabric or is at a place in the garment that will get stressed (stretched) while wearing it then I would go with a 4 thread overlock. Stitch length 2.5 - 3

If you would ever be seaming two pieces of lace or do a seam in a nonstress area area on the garment you could go with a right needle 3 thread overlock as it's a pretty narrow seam allowance and then it wouldn't show as much through the lace. Stitch length about 2.5 - 3 mm.

However, keep in mind that a 3 thread overlock is really not meant for garment construction. It's more for seam finishing.

I hope I am understanding what you mean so I hope this helps.



-- Edited on 6/3/13 2:41 PM --

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Thank you Lord for my Mother who taught me the joy of sewing, for my Father who encouraged my sewing, for the talent You gave me to sew, and for all the special people in my life to sew for.

Sew Confused
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Date: 6/3/13 2:50 PM

Yes, I believe you understand perfectly what I mean, now that I've said what I mean!

I will also be seaming lace to lace, but it will be to set in sleeves, so would I use a 4 thread overlock on that as well? I am making McCall's 6435.

Thanks for your help with this. My serger and I go back a long ways, but we don't have a very good relationship.

------
Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
- Jeff Bezos, Amazon.com founder

Visit my blog at www.sewconfused.blogspot.com

Ms. McCall
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Date: 6/3/13 3:08 PM

I'm not sure I'm picturing it correctly, but if I am, I'd be tempted to do a line of topstitching which would secure the seam allowance to the lycra making it less visible. I don't know what you'd do about the lace to lace seam, but I guess it depends how dense the lace is.

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Pj3g
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In reply to Sew Confused <<


Date: 6/3/13 4:07 PM

Yes, use a 4 thread on the sleeve attachment too where it's lace to lace. Armholes are a high stress area so it will need the 4 thread definitely. You can try to decrease the stitch width as much as your machine will allow to in order to narrow the seam allowance to make it less noticeable. However, even on pattern photos you can see the SA's so I don't think you'll be able to avoid it. Very cute top!
-- Edited on 6/3/13 4:12 PM --

------
Thank you Lord for my Mother who taught me the joy of sewing, for my Father who encouraged my sewing, for the talent You gave me to sew, and for all the special people in my life to sew for.

Sew Confused
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Date: 6/3/13 4:12 PM

I know I won't be able to avoid some of the seams showing, but I want the least amount possible. I'm going to have to dig out the manual to my serger.

------
Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
- Jeff Bezos, Amazon.com founder

Visit my blog at www.sewconfused.blogspot.com

Pj3g
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In reply to Sew Confused <<


Date: 6/3/13 6:26 PM

Be sure to read over the pattern instructions. Because the pattern calls for lace, they might give suggestions as to what serger stitch settings they think would work best. Or they may even have you use a strip of wash away stabilizer when you are serging lace to lace. However, even if the pattern doesn't say to do that, if you're knife isn't cutting a nice clean edge or your lace is poking out of the looper stitches, you may want to add the strip of stabilizer as it helps so much when the fabric is thin, sheer or lacey.

But I'm sure you'll do fine and it will be beautiful!

------
Thank you Lord for my Mother who taught me the joy of sewing, for my Father who encouraged my sewing, for the talent You gave me to sew, and for all the special people in my life to sew for.

Sew Confused
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In reply to Pj3g <<


Date: 6/3/13 10:35 PM

Thank you for your confidence in my ability to emerge victorious from the upcoming battle with my serger!

------
Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
- Jeff Bezos, Amazon.com founder

Visit my blog at www.sewconfused.blogspot.com

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