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facings and lining
do I need both?
newbie2008

newbie2008
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California USA
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Date: 6/5/13 9:33 PM

I am making Butterick 4386 (view D, sleeveless sheath, but without pockets) in linen. The pattern does not call for a lining, but I planning to line it using lining fabric (bemberg) with the same measurements as the dress, and then sewing the two dresses together with 1/4" SA at the neckline and armhole. Do I still need to use a facing? Will the facing give it extra support, or should i just put interfacing on the "inside" of the lining fabric? If it makes any difference, I have changed the neckline to be a v-neck.

Butterick 4386

Lynnelle
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Lynnelle  Friend of PR
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In reply to newbie2008 <<
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Date: 6/6/13 8:00 AM

You don't need the facings, but you do need the support. Fusing interfacing directly to the wrong side of the lining at the neckline and armhole will work. I've done this on two dresses lined with Bemberg and have had no problems.

PetitePear
PetitePear
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Date: 6/6/13 1:09 PM

Like Lynnelle said, you don't need the facing, but you do need something to stabilize the seamlines. RTW often has facing AND lining because it looks better on the hanger. Instead of interfacing, you can also sew twill tape or other stable (NOT bias) tape-like materials into the seams to stabilize them. If twill tape is too thick, selvage would work. Silk organza selvage was suggested in one of Claire Shaeffer's books.

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/6/13 8:03 PM

This is a lovely pattern. I sometimes skip facings and just line the dress. Facings do create some extra warmth, so if it's a casual summer dress I might forgo them. However, on a nice dress like this I would be tempted to do lining and a facing. The benefit is the extra stability plus it just looks nice.

I don't like fusible interfacing and mostly use fabric for interfacing. I find it more comfortable to wear and i don't have to worry about the fusible misbehaving. For linen, maybe something crisp and leightweight that would help to stabilize the natural give linen tends to have. Batiste? Then I finish the edge of the facings either by turning them under 1/4" or maybe with bias binding in a contrast. I completely top stitch the facing to the lining and then treat them as a unit.

To some extent, I think how you do this is a matter of personal preference and I'm interested to hear other opinions on the topic.

------
Melanie

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