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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > add funnel neck to pattern?

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add funnel neck to pattern?
how to add a funnel neck to a collarless jacket pattern?
olydix
olydix
Intermediate
WA USA
Member since 2/16/05
Posts: 14
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Date: 6/6/13 10:32 PM

I have been working on learning to tailor suits for myself, and have reached the place where I have a couple of well fitting fully lined tailored suit jackets patterns.

I am not overly fond of collars on my jackets and so all my patterns have been modified to have no collars. I would now like to extend the jacket neckline enough to have a moderate funnel neck. I am envisioning extending the neck area up about an inch or so, without a separate collar piece.

I actually tried this in the Connie Crawford pattern here:

Crawford jacket with funnel neck

but, like other reviewers, I found the pattern impossible to match at the back neck.

I have looked in my collection of drafting books, and online at various websites that helped in the past on other modifications but have not found anything that is very helpful.

Can anyone guide me on this modification?

thanks

dixie

aonori
aonori
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 9/27/08
Posts: 97
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Date: 6/11/13 4:05 AM

Hi Dixie,

Regarding the Connie Crawford pattern, I'm not familiar with it nor have I seen the reviews, but how about if you stay stitch the neck piece near the stitching line to prevent distortion, then clip the seam in a few spots & pin to the jacket neckline & sew. Would that help get it to fit better?

About drafting the funnel neck, I'm posting a page from Modern Pattern Design by Harriet Pepin. It was one of those old books from that vintage sewing library site that I don't think is up anymore, but can be found through the wayback machine. Make sure the B-C line matches half of the back neck.

Modern Pattern Design pg. 132 - Funnel Neck Draft

I wasn't sure if you wanted a neckline seam in it. Helen Armstrong's Patternmaking for Fashion Design has one that's just a simple extension with no seam.

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