Member since 5/2/09
In reply to brissmith
Date: 6/8/13 4:34 PM
Unfortunate, size 12 does not even come in the same pattern envelope as size 16. But there is only a 4 inch difference in body measurements for your hips in general for your body in the sizes on the back of the envelope between size 12 at 36 inches and size 16 at 40 inches, your hips on your body.
You might not even need to grade out at all, if your hips are really at or a bit under the 40 inches real measurement. I'm going to make it at size 12 all the way, even though my hips actually measure more like 38 or such. Just because I know and can tell it will just fit me anyways, just since the actual printed width on the pattern even for a size 12 there on the straight center back seam piece is actually 37 1/2 inches, just anyways. So for me, even with taking the full back skirt seam allowance, and at size 12, it will have a half inch of negative ease maybe. It's a knit, so that does not bother me at all.
So if you know you like size 12 in most things for the top part of it, and your bust and shoulders, that is the size I would cut. It's also an unusual and weird pattern, just since the whole front of it is cut in one with the sides of the dress that wraps around into the back seam. And the whole center front fold of it, and that center back seam is both on the straight of the lengthwise grain. I actually think it's a bad pattern and with bad pattern shapes of it, just even made that way, to fool around with it, and to even change things so the center front of it and center back of it are no longer even parallel to each other on the straight grain like that.
If you want to change it too much that way, why not just use another pattern made more in a normal way, with more normal front and back pieces and real side seams too? That new Dona Karan one Vouge 1351 instead, really looks very much like the 1250 one, but it is made in the traditional way, that it's easy to alter instead, and has real seams in all the normal places, and even has a slightly flared skirt, so probably does not even matter if your hips larger than rest size wise at all either. Did you see that one?
On the Vouge 1250 one though, maybe just hold the uncut size 12 front and sides piece up to you, wrap it around your self, and see if closes or comes close to closing around you at the largest size 14 on that same piece of tissue paper. If so I would just cut the back seam at the 14 line. If not, and you need another inch, you could probably even add a half an inch to both sides of the center back there and not even change anything else. And then just ease it on to your stretchy knit size 12 top back even. That dart on the wrap around piece at the sides of it, looks like a bad thing to mess with to me also, and I just feel since it's a loose draping knit dress anyways, and if made out of a thinnish knit, it probably will not make that much difference. Also if in a print, you probably are not even going to be seeing the dart visually much at all.
I know this sounds kind of lax on the fitting there, but since it's a loose pullover dress and needs a thin and stretchy knit to hang right, and she made it with such unusual pattern shapes, I don't think it's a good dress shape to go making a bunch of time consuming and detailed alterations to actually. Or at least not until it's actually on you. I think it's just more a quick, pop it on and let it hang kind of dress, and just takes it's shape from your body underneath it and more choose the size it's going to do the best with, with the least problems on you kind of dress instead actually.
I could get real picky with some woven garment, with lots of seams to alter and fit, but that dress is just not made of shapes in that manner, that even lends it's self to that at all, and I think not a good one to do that with, and all that kind of effort would not even show there at all either, just because it's a knit, and stretchy and the hang of it, is just more your body underneath it anyways.
Maybe not what you wanted to hear, but just kind of how I feel about it. I think most Donna Karan two way stretch knit stuff, is most times pretty body forgiving in a lot of ways, and more just drapes on, and does not even need to be fitted too much at all. If kind of in doubt you could even make it in a 4 way stretch fabric instead, then any little fitting things, have even got some more stretch in them, to cover something like a bit more fabric even needed over the hips.