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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Twisted Leg Alteration ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Twisted Leg Alteration
Liles
Liles  Friend of PR
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Member since 6/13/08
Posts: 20
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Date: 6/8/13 11:31 AM

I need some help correcting a twisted pant leg which is causing the back grain line to be off center from the middle of the thigh to the ankle on the back left leg. My left hip is higher than my right hip. The pants fit in the crotch and through the hips. The grain lines are straight on the front and back of the right leg.

I can not find a drawing online that shows how to do this. I found a small article that says to determine the amount needed to decrease the inseam and add that back to the out seam. Do you add that wedge shaped amount to the back out seam across from the inseam on the back pant leg?

Does anyone have a drawing of this alteration that you could post? I would certainly appreciate your help.

JTink
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JTink
Intermediate
VA USA
Member since 4/20/08
Posts: 5718
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In reply to Liles <<


Date: 6/8/13 1:18 PM

Do you by any chance have Pants for Real People by Palmer/Alto? There is an illustration on Page 55, with a lady being fitted who has a high right hip. They said she needs more crotch depth and suggest pulling the pattern tissue down(assuming you tissue fit) until the tissue is centered on your leg. Then they add the extra to the top of the pattern as needed. There is more, but too much to type.

Liles
Liles  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/8/13 1:46 PM

Thank you for your reply. I do not have the book, Pants for Real People. I am working on fitting a pants muslin and have made several muslins. All of them show the same problem with the back left grain line swinging inward towards the center of the body about 3/4" away from the center of the heel. I pinned that amount up in a fold on the side seam, and it straightened up the grain line. I don't know how and where to make the pattern changes. I used search board on PR and did not come up with a thorough explanation - just remove from the inseam and add that amount to the side seam. I have several fitting books, but none of them cover that problem.
Thank you again.

JTink
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JTink
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VA USA
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In reply to Liles <<


Date: 6/8/13 4:59 PM

I wish I could be of more help. I'm sure someone has done this before and will chime in soon. Let's keep bumping this up so folks will see it

Liles
Liles  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/8/13 8:13 PM

Thank you for your kind consideration.

StitchyMama
StitchyMama
Intermediate
MN USA
Member since 1/16/13
Posts: 174
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In reply to Liles <<


Date: 6/8/13 10:51 PM

Quote: Liles
the back left grain line swinging inward towards the center of the body about 3/4" away from the center of the heel.

Have you tried a knock knee or full thigh adjustment? I had the same problem with the inseam pulling up. It would look ok from the front, but the back had a define swing to it toward the inseam.

The knock knee adjustment will have you add a wedge to the inseam just below the crotch line. The full thigh adjustment will have you shift the leg about a 1/2" toward the center and then true up the seams and establish a new grainline. The full thigh ajustment was what worked for me.

Stitches and Seams has a good post that explains both.

------
Brenda
My blog: Stitch 1 Stitch 2
Knitting/Sewing/Life in general
http://stitch1stitch2.blogspot.com/

Liles
Liles  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/9/13 8:41 AM

Thank you for your reply. I have done a knock knee adjustment using the Minnott Method where you cut the leg in half at the knee and shift the lower leg towards the center of the body on both the front and back then true up the inseams and outseams.

I have Sandra Betzina's book, Fast Fit, and looked at the wedge adjustment for Knock Knees. I have wrinkles or drag lines at the back of the leg from the knee up to the crotch as shown in her example. It looks like this adjustment would solve the wrinkles problem.

However, I have too much fabric on the back inseam that is rotated forward below the crotch all the way down the leg to the ankle. The amount of the fabric that is rotated forward is larger at the ankle. It looks like a long wedge from below the crotch to the ankle.

Do you think the wedge adjustment done below the crotch on the front and back would release this material so that it would hang straight down the middle of the inside of my leg and keep it from rotating forward? Also, I have wrinkles on the back of my right thigh, but they are not as bad as the wrinkles on the left side.

I don't think I need the full thigh adjustment since my left thigh is smaller than my right thigh.

Thank you for your advice.

StitchyMama
StitchyMama
Intermediate
MN USA
Member since 1/16/13
Posts: 174
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In reply to Liles <<


Date: 6/9/13 9:22 AM

I'm still learning pants fitting myself, so I'm no expert. The horizontal wedge below the crotch, I don't think will help with twisting your talking about. Can you take your current muslin apart? If so, take the back inseam in about 3/4" and taper up to the crotch. Don't cut anything, just draw the line and when you sew them together again, use that line as your new stitching line. You'll have to match the stitching line to the front, so your edges won't match, but it's a muslin it's not going to matter. If it works you can make that change to your pattern.

I could be wrong, but it's worth a try.

------
Brenda
My blog: Stitch 1 Stitch 2
Knitting/Sewing/Life in general
http://stitch1stitch2.blogspot.com/

Liles
Liles  Friend of PR
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Member since 6/13/08
Posts: 20
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Date: 6/9/13 1:28 PM

I took up the excess fabric that creates the fold on the back inseam, and it straightens out the back of the leg. So, now I need to add that same amount to the back outseam. I am not sure how to do this correctly. I am just learning how to fit a pants pattern on myself. Thank you for your help.

StitchyMama
StitchyMama
Intermediate
MN USA
Member since 1/16/13
Posts: 174
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In reply to Liles <<


Date: 6/9/13 3:43 PM

Is it still twisting now that you have the excess fabric removed? If it looks fine I wouldn't add it to the side seam, because I think that would cause the same problem.

Nevermind, I went back an re-read your first post. I'm not sure I can help you. If you posted a photo maybe someone with more expertise could point you in the right direction.
-- Edited on 6/9/13 3:50 PM --

------
Brenda
My blog: Stitch 1 Stitch 2
Knitting/Sewing/Life in general
http://stitch1stitch2.blogspot.com/

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