Member since 5/3/07
Date: 6/9/13 3:04 PM
I'm converting a princess seam back bodice (2 pattern pieces cut on the fold) to a 1 piece back bodice with a CB zipper. I've added the CB seam allowance for the zipper and taped the two princess seam back pieces together. Because of the princess seam, the back pieces 'bow' out and don't lay flat to trace. Do I just mash down the taped princess pattern pieces to trace around or do I need to release the pattern paper somewhere and add a dart? If I slash along the taped princess seam it starts to lay flat, but all I think that I'm accomplishing is putting the princess seam back in. I can't find another pattern that fits! Please help!
Member since 2/5/09
Date: 6/9/13 11:17 PM
The back bows out because of the shoulder darts and waist darts that were transfered into the princess seams. Do not just flatten the bodice, you have to cut a new dart and let it spread until the bodice lays flat
Member since 12/3/06
1 member likes this.
Date: 6/9/13 11:26 PM
“I don’t give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think it’s Hell.” — Harry Truman
"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge
Member since 8/9/11
Date: 6/10/13 1:21 AM
Princess seams allow a nice close fit because they incorporate all the darts in the princess seams (shoulder, bust and waist) for both the front and the back. IHTH
Member since 6/11/04
Date: 6/10/13 4:16 AM
You don't have to make the darts if you don't want to, but the fit may not be as close as you want, since most people have a slight forward curve in their backs. There are plenty of bodices that have no fitting other than the back zipper.
I would flatten the bodice as much as possible. Back seams don't usually have a ton of curve in them to compensate for.