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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > removing princess seams to make a plain bodice

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removing princess seams to make a plain bodice
Need darts when changing from princess to one piece?
sewer859
sewer859
Virginia USA
Member since 5/3/07
Posts: 17
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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Date: 6/9/13 3:04 PM

I'm converting a princess seam back bodice (2 pattern pieces cut on the fold) to a 1 piece back bodice with a CB zipper. I've added the CB seam allowance for the zipper and taped the two princess seam back pieces together. Because of the princess seam, the back pieces 'bow' out and don't lay flat to trace. Do I just mash down the taped princess pattern pieces to trace around or do I need to release the pattern paper somewhere and add a dart? If I slash along the taped princess seam it starts to lay flat, but all I think that I'm accomplishing is putting the princess seam back in. I can't find another pattern that fits! Please help!
Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
New South Wales Australia
Member since 2/5/09
Posts: 647
Skill: Expert/Couture
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Date: 6/9/13 11:17 PM

The back bows out because of the shoulder darts and waist darts that were transfered into the princess seams. Do not just flatten the bodice, you have to cut a new dart and let it spread until the bodice lays flat

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Custom clothier and pattern designer. www.iconicpatterns.com

PattiAnnJ
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PattiAnnJ
Ohio USA
Member since 12/3/06
Posts: 8976
Skill: Advanced
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Date: 6/9/13 11:26 PM

Why?

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"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

"Isnít it a shame in todayís world you canít tell the truth. If you tell the truth youíre abrasive. If you lie youíre charming." - Bob Huggins/College Basketball Coach

tinflutterby
tinflutterby  Friend of PR
California USA
Member since 8/9/11
Posts: 325
Skill: Advanced
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Date: 6/10/13 1:21 AM

Princess seams allow a nice close fit because they incorporate all the darts in the princess seams (shoulder, bust and waist) for both the front and the back. IHTH
arianamaniacs
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arianamaniacs  Friend of PR
Austria
Member since 6/11/04
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Date: 6/10/13 4:16 AM

You don't have to make the darts if you don't want to, but the fit may not be as close as you want, since most people have a slight forward curve in their backs. There are plenty of bodices that have no fitting other than the back zipper.

I would flatten the bodice as much as possible. Back seams don't usually have a ton of curve in them to compensate for.

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Please excuse any typos, ipad keyboards are hard for me.

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