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Forum > Fitting Woes > Request for muslin critique ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Request for muslin critique
Colette Sorbetto
thefunimalist
thefunimalist
Member since 3/10/13
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Date: 6/12/13 8:36 PM

I'm working on the Colette Sorbetto top and having some fit issues. I'd greatly appreciate any advice!






I made some alterations to the pattern. My figure is narrow-backed, full-busted, and pear shaped. Based on my measurements, I cut a size 4 at the shoulders, did a 2.5" FBA, and used the size 10 waist and size 12 hip measurements at the front and back while keeping the length of a size 4.

Here's my beginner's opinion of what needs to be fixed: The biggest problem is the horizontal wrinkling at the lower back. Viewed from the side, the bottom edge appears to be riding up toward the back, so I think I need to add width to the back hip area rather than do a swayback adjustment. Can I just add width at the side seams?

I can tell the shoulders are a bit wide and the darts need some adjustment, but I'm not sure what the best way to fix them would be.

I'm a beginner at fitting garments so I'd appreciate all the feedback I can get! Thanks for reading.

Edit: I think I fixed the photos--let me know if you can't see them.
-- Edited on 6/12/13 8:38 PM --
-- Edited on 6/12/13 8:49 PM --

Sew Confused
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Sew Confused
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Date: 6/12/13 9:51 PM

You'll need to shorten the darts; I believe I shortened them by 1-3/4 inches. That's all I'm commenting on, because that's all I know for certain.

------
Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
- Jeff Bezos, Amazon.com founder

Visit my blog at www.sewconfused.blogspot.com

Nancy K
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In reply to thefunimalist <<
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Date: 6/12/13 11:01 PM

No, you need a sway back adjustment. This needs a cb seam added.
You also need to make a narrow back adjustment.
The dart needs to be shortened, but it also might look better if you rotate it to angle up from lower down the side to make a French dart which will help with the vertical folds in the front.
There seems to be a little too much length above the bust. Try pinning out the folds
The shoulders are a little too wide and too sloping.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

SandiMacD
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SandiMacD  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/13/13 7:14 AM

Make one change at a time or you will go crazy. I thought I was a pear shape until I took Barb Decker's plus size Craftsy class. I learned I am a box. If you look in the mirror I think you will see a straight line from shoulder to hip, not an A frame line. But hard to see with the blouse over hips.
I would start with the sway back adjustment. Search on PR- lots of help with what it is and how to make it.
Most say start at the top and work down. The shoulder seam angle and where it sets looks OK though. But it does go past your shoulder joint. To me that is more an arm hole adjustment and can wait.
Or you could start with the bust dart. It looks high and too big. I would place it lower and bring it to end about 2 inches from your bust apex and then look at it again.

------
sewing brings joy and meaning to my life...

SandiMacD
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Date: 6/13/13 7:18 AM

Or you could narrow the bust dart you have snd leave it where it is. Then make another bust dart below that to take up the extra fabric and give shaping. I am not sure the top dart needs shortening, it just isn't able to do its job from that position. So it needs to be moved lower or be narrowed and get help from a second lower dart.

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sewing brings joy and meaning to my life...

Marilly
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In reply to thefunimalist <<
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Date: 6/13/13 9:00 PM

I think you need a bigger FBA and the kind that's the Y type that Palmer and Pletsch show in their newer Fit for Real People Book. I think your upper length may be okay, but it's hard to be sure as the horizontal wrinkles look like they are straining as the fullness in your upper bust cup is pushing up the fabric to get to a spot where there's enough circumference in the front.
The Y type of FBA is supposed to be for larger adjustments ( spreads over 1.5 ) and might be the worth a try. Unlike the standard FBA it has an additional cut line from the mid-shoulder to help make a smoother transition from smaller shoulders to ample busts, especially if you go down another size in the shoulders. This is what it looks like:
Y type FBA
By comparison, this is more typical FBA, you can see it only pops out the bust area:
Standard FBA,
I'm not sure about the back, but Nancy K suggestions make sense to me.
Shel

thefunimalist
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Date: 6/14/13 0:48 AM

Thank you all for the suggestions. I'm playing around with my pattern and I'll post more photos when I've made some progress.

What are your opinions of the swayback adjustments that don't require a CB seam? There's one method shown here and another one at the end of this blog post. I tried the method in the first link on paper only and it gave me a weird looking shoulder slope even though I only removed 0.5". I might make a muslin of it to see what happens, though. There are some striped and patterned fabrics that I'd like to use for this top that would look best if I didn't have to add a CB seam, so it would be preferable if that could be avoided.

BettyMike
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Date: 6/14/13 2:31 AM

In addition to a sway back adjustment, you may need a short waist alteration as well. I am extremely short waisted and that alteration is step #1 for me.

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betty/mikie

lca
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Date: 6/14/13 3:48 PM

I agree, you need the Y FBA. This should lower the dart point which seems to me to be too high and long.

lca
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Date: 6/14/13 3:49 PM

oops! duplicate post!
-- Edited on 6/14/13 3:51 PM --

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