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Best way to hem chiffon
bvxo
bvxo
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Date: 6/12/13 10:40 PM

I've heard all about the hemmer foot for a rolled hem, and using water soluble reinforcer, but the hemmer foot seems to wrinkle on curved hems (I'm sewing a *huge* circle skirt) and it's silk chiffon so I feel like that's not something I can submerge until the paper dissolves...so are there any other good ways to make a small hem on a chiffon circle skirt?

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 6/12/13 11:15 PM

Serge, fold and then top stitch.

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BriarRose
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Date: 6/13/13 2:45 AM

As a belly dancer who has always made her own costumes I have sewn miles of hems on chiffon circle skirts in a variety of different ways.

A favorite is to lay a narrow strip of tulle or organza on the right side of the fabric, stitch hem and strip together and trim raw edge to a very narrow seam. Press the hem seam toward the organza/tulle strip, then turn the strip under and stitch it into place.

If I want a bit of weight at the hem to facilitate flare when turning, I stitch narrow bias tape at the hem edge on the right side of the fabric so that it barely overlaps the raw edge then turn along the bias tape to the wrong side and stitch in place.

-- Edited on 6/13/13 2:46 AM --

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Date: 6/13/13 7:24 AM

I'm not a fan of the hemmer foot. Never have gotten very good results with it. I do a top stitch, fold it over then sew it down. Angela Wolfe demonstrated this on Its Sew Easy last week.

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Miss Fairchild
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Date: 6/13/13 8:07 AM

I stitch about 1/4" away, using a regular foot and regular stitch. Then I roll the hem into the hemmer, using the stitching as my fold. For some reason, the weight of the thread from the stitching helps hem to roll better.

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PattyE
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Date: 6/13/13 9:15 AM

If you have a serger you could do the tiny rolled hem with it. It's easy once you get going.

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Date: 6/13/13 10:15 AM

Paco Peralta has a very good write-up on this. It's in Spanish and English, with excellent photos. http://uniquedesignerpatterns.blogspot.com.es/2012/01/tejidos-transparentes-tutorial-costura.html

j Renee Design
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In reply to bvxo <<


Date: 6/13/13 11:41 AM

Yeah, that narrow hem foot sucks on the bias. For long distances on the straight of grain, it can be great, though.

I tend to follow the Miss Fairchild approach when it comes to narrow hems on circle skirts.

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TinaLea
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Date: 7/3/13 2:08 AM

I hemmed my neices prom dress using fusible thread in the bobbin. I used lightweight thread to match the fabric on the right side, stitched a line really close to the edge of the hem, then trimmed it neatly with my rotary cutter. I then turned the fabric under along the stitching line and ironed the threadline.....the fusible thread fused the two layers of chiffon together, and I didn't even have to turn it under a second time. Resulted in a super neat lightweight hem. If this was something that would be machine washed, I'd recommend turning it under that second time and stitching.

Czedwards
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In reply to bvxo <<


Date: 8/1/13 11:17 PM

You're probably really not going to want to hear this, but this is the place for hand stitching, though I do have a machine hack.

Start by starching the edge of the fabric. Now pinch the edge between your thumb and fingers, with the wrong side under your thumb facing up. Roll the edge off your fingers to get a tiny roll at the edge, and continue around. If it's properly starched, it will hold the roll. (You can also roll the edge around a long strand of perle cotton; this can be left in place to give the skirt just a tiny bit of oomph, or pulled out.) Then whip stitch over that roll, using a third hand, a sewing bird, a wrapped brick or a heavy can to maintain tension.

Alternately, you can use a narrow zig zag over the roll, using strips of wash-away stabilizer to keep the feed dogs from eating the edge, but on very long curved seams, I find that had whip stitching only takes about 15% longer, looks better and is less likely to damage the fabric.



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