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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > (Invisible) Zipper in a partially lined bodice

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(Invisible) Zipper in a partially lined bodice
cimmanon
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cimmanon
Member since 1/2/05
Posts: 50
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 6/16/13 8:12 AM

I've mastered the RTW techniques for faced and fully lined invisible zippers, but I don't think I've ever seen a RTW dress with a zipper where only the bodice is lined and not the skirt. When you come across a pattern designed this way (very common in patterns with an empire seam), what do you do? I see 2 possibilities here:

1. Add a full lining, even when the fabric doesn't need it

2. Treat the lining like a really long facing: attaching the bottom of the lining to the corresponding shell seam either by hand (which is awful to redo if alterations are necessary down the line) or by machine once you've cleared the zipper tape (will this still look professional?).

Or is there something else I'm not thinking of that works better?
Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 7936
Skill: Advanced
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In reply to cimmanon

Date: 6/16/13 11:12 AM

Answer No. 2, but I use a
catch stitch to hold the lining in place. It's sort of like a slip stitch but is looser. The half lining method was very popular in the 70's, especially with empire dresses to cover the bust area for modesty.

Or make thread chains attaching the lining to the side seams.

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