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Forum > Fitting Woes > What should I change on a muslin before pin fitting? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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What should I change on a muslin before pin fitting?
And steps for fitting Simplicity 2648 dress
Sewandwrite
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Sewandwrite  Friend of PR
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Maryland USA
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Date: 6/16/13 9:56 PM

I am working on Simplicity 2648 Amazing fit dress. I am using size 16 D-cup.

I faithfully followed Fit for Real People and tried tissue fitting this pattern. I did flat pattern measurements. I checked the areas where I've done adjustments (other than FBA) before -- forward shoulder, low bust, narrow shoulder, extra torso length above bust. It didn't *seem* like I needed any changes when I tried on the pinned pattern, which made me skeptical.

I made a muslin. I have the bodice front and back put together at the shoulder but the side seams are waiting for a pin fitting. I have a friend who isn't much of a sewist but out of the blue, she's volunteered to help me tomorrow night! I am psyched.

We are both busy professionals, so I want to be properly prepared for her time with me.

1. I realize just putting on the muslin as is that I need a forward shoulder adjustment. Should I do this change on my muslin before my friend pins the side seams?

2. Should we fit the bodice first -- then fit the skirt separately before putting them together? The pattern recommends basting the bodice to the skirt before pinning the side seams for the "amazing fit." But it seems to me I need to figure out if the bodice is long enough before pinning the side seams for fit. Next I think we need to figure out where the back skirt darts should be on me -- then pin darts above them on the bodice back.

PR Braintrust, would you let me know how you'd attack this fitting?

Marie367
Marie367  Friend of PR
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In reply to Sewandwrite <<


Date: 6/16/13 10:13 PM

I have made this pattern alot. I think you are right to fit the bodice first. That is what I did the first time I made it. Since this is a muslin and you are trying to get a fit, I would sew up all the bodice seams on the muslin. Remember that most of these seams are 1" not 5/8" Use a wide basting stitch so it is easy to rip out. The seams are extra wide to allow for fit-you can let them out or take them in as needed. You might find that the shoulders fit differently with the side seams sewn. Since I have worked out the fit, I now sew each section-bodice side to skirt side, middle bodice to middle skirt etc. Then sew in long sections. That way I get more flexibility in the middle and I can tweak fitting. If you are making the sleeves, you should attach them too so you can see how the whole thing fits. This is a good pattern to play with fit and the directions give lots of help. It is so nice that you have someone to help you! HTH

Sewandwrite
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In reply to Marie367 <<


Date: 6/16/13 10:20 PM

Quote: Marie367
Since I have worked out the fit, I now sew each section-bodice side to skirt side, middle bodice to middle skirt etc. Then sew in long sections.

Brilliant! I will keep this construction method in mind after I get the fit right.
Marie367
Marie367  Friend of PR
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In reply to Sewandwrite <<
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Date: 6/16/13 10:59 PM

Lots of older patterns were sewn that way-I would say I know that because I buy vintage patterns but that is not why. Those vintage patterns were new when I was learning to sew-haha (60's&70's). Post some pics when you get this done.

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