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Forum > Fitting Woes > Raglan sleeves ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Raglan sleeves
How are they supposed to fit?
chrisquilts_2
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chrisquilts_2  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/19/13 7:09 PM

One side effect to bettering my sewing is that I now suspect that nothing RTW I've purchased actually fits properly, so I've embarked on a personal journey to better understand what "fits" really means.

I'm working on #130 from burda 8/2012. It's basically a dressed up raglan T. The sleeve is a two piece raglan. I made my first muslin several months ago and abandoned it in frustration. After considerable searching of the board and several specific questions, I know I need an upper body petite adjustment (pinch out an inch between neckline and lower sleeve). Fast forward to a second attempt and "wowza, thanks all, much, much better"...but, well I don't wear Raglan sleeves ever and I'm not sure what fitting really means.


In this view there is some bunching under the sleeve but I think that comes with the raglan sleeve concept.

I'm focusing on the underarm area. See how close it is in this image. Does it need to be perhaps even closer fitting than set in sleeves, or am I thinking about it wrong?

Image from contourwear.com

.

I would appreciate any ideas. Curiously, I'm more uncertain about fit now that I am more informed
-- Edited on 6/19/13 7:12 PM --
-- Edited on 6/20/13 9:55 PM --

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Too much fabric to count...

Rosalaya
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Date: 6/20/13 6:08 PM

It is my understanding that the 'bunching' in the armhole is inevitable as it incomes from the design.
If you were to do it yourself, you would put the bodice piece down and then place the (half) sleeve at right angles to it (or thereabouts) and you would find perhaps a small amount of 'bridging' maybe necessary.

Elona
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In reply to chrisquilts_2 <<


Date: 6/20/13 6:46 PM

Because there's no classic armscye seam, the raglan sleeve is inherently a bit untidy in the underarm region. Sandra Betzina and many other sewing mavens have addressed this problem. Here's one of the corrections that can help a little.

Lindy Ann
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In reply to chrisquilts_2 <<


Date: 6/20/13 9:38 PM

You said, "I know I need an upper body petite adjustment (pinch out an inch between neckline and lower sleeve)."

I don't know much about raglan sleeves, but I do have experience with petite adjustments. Somewhere on PR someone posted a chart of standard petite adjustments. It's in centimeters. Nape to waist is 2 centimeters shorter for a petite, while the scye depth is 8 millimeters shorter.

For instance, in going from a regular 12 to a petite 12, as I need to do, my back waist is 1 inch shorter than the measurement listed on the pattern. I pinch out 1/4 inch horizontally halfway between the top and bottom of the armhole, plus 3/4 inch horizontally between the bustline and the waist. This 1/4 inch change greatly improves the fit of the armhole and the sleeve -- but be sure to pinch out the same amount horizontally across the sleeve cap, so the armhole and sleeve still correspond.

So I suspect if you are trying to remove a whole inch from the upper chest that it's way too much. Maybe you could remove a little bit, but need other changes to the sleeve as well.

chrisquilts_2
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In reply to Elona <<


Date: 6/20/13 9:43 PM

Thanks. I didn't see that one. That one should help with the fabric bunching on the upper chest.

Neither FFRP or Fast Fit address how the finished product might look.
-- Edited on 6/20/13 9:57 PM --

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Too much fabric to count...

chrisquilts_2
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In reply to Lindy Ann <<


Date: 6/20/13 9:53 PM

Yes I take a 1/2 inch tuck, so a 1 inch total slice from the front and back between the bust and collar. The armholes fit great and the darts are where they should be. I am just oddly proportioned there.

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Too much fabric to count...

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