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Forum > Beginner's Forum > princess seams large waist adjustment ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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princess seams large waist adjustment
jaelh
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jaelh
Beginner
Member since 9/29/12
Posts: 11
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Date: 6/20/13 6:09 AM

I am making simplicity 2648, 12D in the chest (HB 34, FB 37)

however, i'm not a pear. I'm a bottom heavy gourd of some sort. I straddle the paper sizes; i need a smaller pattern size on top, but I'm a 16-waist (33) /18-hips (44).

This pattern has princess seams. I figure I need to grade out 0.8" on each piece at the waist line.

However.. Where to I grade out from? I figure it's the ^ that marks the fabric join at the underbust. Would that be correct? Also - it changes the shape of the pattern pieces pretty dramatically. So I'm just wondering if this is, in fact, the right adjustment, or if it will change the line on my body.

same on the hips: i need to add 0.6" on the hips to get a fit with ok ease.. same grade out from the waist? this has worked on everything else, but i've not done princess seams, and i'm wondering about the line


I know I have to drop the cash on the real fit book, I've just not got around to it yet and still feel far too novice to be tackling these kind of adjustments. (thus - this multi cup pattern: i'm so over the mumu very easy patterns, but I tried an FBA and overwhelmed myself.. )

THANK YOU SO MUCH for your assistance and advice
-- Edited on 6/20/13 6:12 AM --

LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
California USA
Member since 7/10/06
Posts: 2188
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Date: 6/20/13 11:07 AM

Could you just cut wide seam allowances for all the pieces, and pin fit as you go? I have found that more accurate than trying to figure out exactly where I am wider or narrower than the pattern, when you're talking about an inch or less on each pattern piece.

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AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Iowa USA
Member since 11/21/09
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Date: 6/20/13 11:34 AM

I agree with Laura, Add to the side seams then pin to fit.
Once you know the thing will go around you then you can always adjust.

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Ada

jaelh
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jaelh
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Posts: 11
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Date: 6/20/13 5:34 PM

:) Actually, my crazy crazy measuring worked out: I traced onto interfacing a sewed up a mock, and I had overestimated a bit at the waist but was otherwise kicking it.

I'm really liking this sewing thing when it comes together! (and even when it doesn't. at least.. most of the time!)


thanks very much all

solosmocker
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solosmocker
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New York USA
Member since 1/23/06
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Date: 6/20/13 6:11 PM

Ah, the wonderful joys of making a muslin/mock up, whatever you would like to call it. Glad it worked out.

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