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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Jean Waistband wrinkles :^( ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Jean Waistband wrinkles :^(
kowgiirl.up
kowgiirl.up
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Member since 12/28/12
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Date: 6/22/13 2:45 PM

I decided that I better put on the brakes and post a couple of pics before I topstitch these babies. These are sort of knock-offs as you can tell from one of the pics. I was supposed to be done with these yesterday

I hope you can see that the waistband has wrinkles. I added the 'stay tape' to the (top) band as suggested. Now I'm wondering if I rip out the 'stay tape' to see if the waistband would lay flat and not wrinkle?

I'm using non-stretch denim. Just two layers, one for the right side of fabric and one for the inside. The waistband is a curve pattern.




These two below show the backside bulge that I hope will lay down flat once topstitched. Some of that bulk came from me having to cut the waistband pattern in half as it was too long to fit on the fabric I was working with. I had to piece it together in the back hence the bulge. Not very attractive IMO.
I'm pretty happy with the fit below the waistband for my first pair but the upper part not so much.




-- Edited on 6/22/13 2:52 PM --

------
Runs with scissors
Universal Deluxe Zig Zag from the 60's
Singer Quantum Stylist 9960
Singer Treadle 127 Egyptian
Juki MO 735

JTink
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JTink
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Date: 6/22/13 5:29 PM

I think these look pretty darn good. If it were me, I wouldn't worry about those little wrinkles. I get them when I top stitch my waistband. You might want to raise your pockets a bit on the next pair You did an excellent job.

kowgiirl.up
kowgiirl.up
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In reply to JTink <<


Date: 6/22/13 6:42 PM

Quote: JTink
You might want to raise your pockets a bit on the next pair

Thanks, I'll do that.
There are a few things with this first pair that I would like to change for next time. They are still a little lower than I would like and the waistband is a little wider than I would like and I think the zipper is too short.
I still have to attach the belt loops and I'm thinking that will be the biggest challenge of the whole project so far.

------
Runs with scissors
Universal Deluxe Zig Zag from the 60's
Singer Quantum Stylist 9960
Singer Treadle 127 Egyptian
Juki MO 735

simplystitches
simplystitches
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Date: 6/22/13 8:43 PM

Most of the wrinkling is because when you use a curved or contour waistband part of the cut edges end up on the bias. You can minimize it by using a light weight fusible tricot interfacing. That's what I do and it helps stabilize the bias so there's not as much wrinkling.


Debbie

nitsel
nitsel  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/23/13 2:56 PM

Your topstitching is great!! I wouldn't worry about the wrinkles in the waistband-they won't be noticeable when you wear the jeans. They look really good-especially for your first try!

HawkeMorningStar7
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Date: 6/23/13 3:31 PM

Great first pair of jeans!
To get rid of that little bit of back wrinkling undo waistband along here and pull UP the excess yoke part. I think its a bit too much height.
And i get that wrinkling too sometimes but when I topstitch the WB and go in opposite directions ie stitch left to right on lower WB seam but right to left on upper. Did you stitch WB seams in two different directions? Maybe use a walking foot. Stabilizing with a good interfacing may help too. Bias WB fit lovely but can be PITA re topstitching

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.....Behold, a wonder did appear;
Amazement was my bliss.......

kowgiirl.up
kowgiirl.up
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In reply to HawkeMorningStar7 <<
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Date: 6/23/13 8:14 PM

Quote: HawkeMorningStar7
and pull UP the excess yoke part. I think its a bit too much height

I ripped out my topstitching from belt loop to belt loop, then tore out the inner stitching that holds the body to the waistband. I moved the yoke up about 1/2 inch and that made that bulge in the back disappear for the most part . So, thank you for that little pointer! I still have a bit of a bulge in the band itself but I was able to take it in a little bit so it's not as bad.

Now my problem is, I can't get the blasted belt loops attached with my fancy singer. I'm seriously considering putting the darn thing out in the driveway and running over it with my tractor or... maybe I should forgo that idea and have myself a couple of 'adult beverages' instead

------
Runs with scissors
Universal Deluxe Zig Zag from the 60's
Singer Quantum Stylist 9960
Singer Treadle 127 Egyptian
Juki MO 735

HawkeMorningStar7
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In reply to kowgiirl.up <<
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Date: 6/23/13 8:31 PM

I get a hammer and pound the folded little edge of the belt loop.Flattening it makes loop a little longer so measure again. I hand crank and use reg thread zig zag stitch, narrow. Use a size 18 needle nice and sharp.
HTH

------
.....Behold, a wonder did appear;
Amazement was my bliss.......

kowgiirl.up
kowgiirl.up
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OR USA
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Posts: 212
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Date: 7/1/13 6:23 PM

Well I finally got my jeans finished.

I have a question though about them.

One of the inside leg seams has a slight twist and I am not sure why. I thought I had paid real close attention to grainlines when I laid out the pattern. This has me confused. Any idea why I had this problem?

Overall the jeans are ok and I learn lots making them.
I can't say that I'm doing backflips with joy though. There are quite a few things that I would change and hopefully the next pair will be better. I noticed that I didn't get the hem lengths correct (hard to do that by yourself) so I will have to let them out a little. Next time I will wash them one last time before I hem.

Pic showing the slight inseam twist.


Back view (little on the dark side)


Front view


Back view

------
Runs with scissors
Universal Deluxe Zig Zag from the 60's
Singer Quantum Stylist 9960
Singer Treadle 127 Egyptian
Juki MO 735

JTink
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In reply to kowgiirl.up <<
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Date: 7/2/13 8:02 AM

I think you did a fine job...and if you don't believe me, next time you are out at a store or mall...take a look around you and see what people are wearing. Your jeans are a better fit than most RTW. I've made dozens and have never been truly satisfied with any of them. But they are more than wearable. I'm the only one who knows the "flaw" and in most cases it's not even a flaw, it's personal preference. As far as twisting in the leg, maybe it could have been the material. Denim can have a mind of it's own. Could be one thigh is a little more muscular than the other. I'm sure someone else with more experience in this sort of thing will chime in.

In my opinion, the length is perfect(once you get them even). I actually make my "summer" jeans shorter, for sandal wear.

If it's not uncomfortable and the seam is not running down the front of your leg wear these with a great amount of pride and satisfaction

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