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Forum > Beginner's Forum > Question about Kathleen Fasanella's lapped zipper tutorial ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Question about Kathleen Fasanella's lapped zipper tutorial
awesome tutorial
marymary86
marymary86
Georgia USA
Member since 7/20/08
Posts: 3670
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 6/27/13 7:14 PM

Kathleen Fasanella's lapped zipper tutorial

I read this tutorial (and the other three corresponding sections) and can't wait to try this on a real garment.

Is there a formula anywhere on how to change your pattern so that you can use this method?

If I read it correctly (and I have a splitting headache and probably didn't read it correctly) I need (and I copied this right from her tutorial - hope it's okay)

Left back shell allowance is 3/4″ from CB (zero point).
Left back neck facing allowance is 0 (zero).
Right back shell allowance is 1/2″.
Right back neck facing allowance is 1/2″

Do I just change the seam allowances for the length of the zipper and then revert back to whatever seam allowance (I was using 5/8" but see she says 3/8" is the standard for manufacturing).

I think I see what to do from typing this out but I'd love to verify it.

Does anyone know the purpose of whacking the neckline zipper with a hammer?
-- Edited on 6/27/13 7:34 PM --

------
Mary


marymary86
marymary86
Georgia USA
Member since 7/20/08
Posts: 3670
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 6/27/13 7:17 PM

Trying to write out the steps as concisely as I can:

1. Trace pattern with 3/8" seam allowances on seam with zipper. Flip and trace again (you'll need a right and left side - alternatively you could remove 1/2" seam allowance from the right side after cutting).

2. Add another 3/8" on left side for the length of the zipper. Notch the neck (or waistband) side 3/4" from the edge.

3. Add 1/8" on right side for the length of the zipper.

4. Remove the seam allowance (zipper side) for the left facing.

5. The seam allowance for the right facing should be 1/2".

The left pattern piece (not the facing) needs to be notched on the neck edge. I'm trying to locate that measurement. A dot needs to be marked on the seam indicating the zipper stop.

The neckline (or waist) seam allowance should be 1/4".

Please jump in if I've made any mistakes.


-- Edited on 6/27/13 7:22 PM --
-- Edited on 6/27/13 7:27 PM --
-- Edited on 6/27/13 7:31 PM --
-- Edited on 6/27/13 8:00 PM --
-- Edited on 6/27/13 8:01 PM --
-- Edited on 6/27/13 8:03 PM --

------
Mary


marymary86
marymary86
Georgia USA
Member since 7/20/08
Posts: 3670
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 6/27/13 8:23 PM

I'm constructing her sample.

At first, I thought it was too obvious and there was no need to make the sample. Now that I'm about to sew the facings on, I'm glad I took the time. It's also helping me see what presser foot is best, etc.

------
Mary


Mufffet
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Vermont USA
Member since 8/14/05
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Date: 6/27/13 9:14 PM

Her entire site (sites?) are chock full of excellent advice, talk of the garment industry and pattern making and just so much to read and take it - wonderful stuff all of it!

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"Be kind whenever possible. It is always possible."
--Dalai Lama

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