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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Choosing the correct size pants pattern ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Choosing the correct size pants pattern
Sew Confused
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Sew Confused  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/30/13 2:48 PM

If your waist and your hip indicate different measurements, which do you choose by...waist or hips?

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Paula

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LauraTS
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Date: 6/30/13 3:13 PM

Usually the experts say hip, but I would choose by whichever needs the biggest size. For most of us that's hip but for some it could be waist.

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Elona
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In reply to Sew Confused <<


Date: 6/30/13 3:21 PM

If you are working with a Burda pattern (about the best, most anatomically correct crotch curve in the business), you would trace off the proper size line for your hips, using a dressmaker's curve--or a good eye--to gradually blend with the proper size line for your waist.

The option of this kind of choice is the excellent thing about really multisized patterns like Burda, because hardly anyone is just one size. Most of us have one size for the bust, another for the waist, and yet another for the hips.

aprilla
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Date: 6/30/13 4:03 PM

It's hard to know because the hips are 'just the hips' while the waist involves waistband or facing pieces too ... or something that's going to have to match up.
If the pattern matches the hips (if they are the largest for sizing) then you need to figure out what to do for those additional pieces when the waist isn't falling in line with the pattern.

I ended up opting for the multi-sized pattern, as my waist needs a bigger size than my hips/thighs and I can cut a waistband/facing in the larger size.

It's like a giant jigsaw :(

Sew Confused
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Date: 6/30/13 4:09 PM

My gut is telling me to go with my waist because I'm afraid of altering the waistband and the back yoke.

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Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
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Miss Fairchild
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Date: 6/30/13 4:15 PM

The hip measurement is the one you go with, because pattern makers use the thigh measurement based on the hip size; also the crotch curve might be tricky. Waist changes are easier than crotch and thigh adjustments. That being said, if you have an overly large waist and very skinny legs, you could go with the waist size.

It's like when I'd buy RTW pants (waaaay back when). If I bought them for my hip and thigh size, the waist would be too big; and I couldn't even look at ones for my waist size, because I couldn't get them on.

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Sew Confused
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Date: 6/30/13 4:34 PM

So you think it will be easier to alter the waistband even if it's curved? That is freaking me out.

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Paula

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JTink
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In reply to Sew Confused <<


Date: 6/30/13 5:50 PM

If you have a copy of Pants for Real People, there is an illustration on page 126 that shows how to alter a contour waist band.

Sew Confused
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Date: 6/30/13 6:12 PM

I don't have that book. I'm hoping to not have to buy a new book in order to make pants. Unless I find that I'm particularly hard to fit.

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Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
- Jeff Bezos, Amazon.com founder

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Sewliz
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In reply to Sew Confused <<


Date: 6/30/13 6:16 PM

Partly it depends on your personal shape distribution of the circumference. The pattern is drafted for standard proportions so if you are flatter and wider, like a hip flask, or rounder all around, like a coke bottle, than the standard figure you should take that into consideration.

I am of the hip flask variety where I have more width relative to depth in the hip area so I choose a pants pattern size that is circumference measurement-wise smaller than what I "should" choose. Then I add at the side seams to make up the difference. That way the crotch fits better. If I use the "right" size the crotch is way to baggy and big for me.

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