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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Armscye Fitting Issue - Please Help! ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Armscye Fitting Issue - Please Help!
Is the armscye too tight? How do I fix it?
petitesewist
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petitesewist
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Date: 6/30/13 10:30 PM

see picture here:
http://thepetitesewist.blogspot.com/2013/06/simplicity-2588-fitting-woes.html

Help!

I'm in the process of muslining Simplicity 2588. I'm making the dress option with the flat sleeves and the fuller skirt for my brother's wedding. The muslin doesn't look half bad, except this annoying problem right under the arms. You can see the pulling above, from the front underarm to the shoulder. I've never had this problem, so I'm not sure what to do. It's not pulling in the back, just the front. The armscye (can I even still call it an armscye because it's a raglan sleeve??) is a size 8 at the top and tapers out to a size 10 right at the point where the folds start near the front of the armpit. I pinned the bodice on and wore it for a while to check the comfort. The armscye is annoyingly high in my armpit, so when I put this on I want to escape and run away!

I took out 1/2" at center front to make the fabric fall over the bust better. I'm wondering if this stole ease from the arm area. I really have no idea how to fix this so any advice would be very appreciated.

Thanks!
-- Edited on 6/30/13 10:31 PM --

JudyHan
JudyHan  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/1/13 8:18 AM

I think it is your shoulder slope. Looks like it needs to be closer to the neck - and higher at the shoulder. Have patience - you are getting there and it looks great!!

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Miss Fairchild
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Date: 7/1/13 9:17 AM

I agree with Judy, but also it might be the fabric you are using. It looks a little stiffer than something that might be used for this type of sleeve.

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LauraTS
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Date: 7/1/13 12:37 PM

I agree, your shoulder slope is steeper than the pattern expects. If you do a sloping shoulder adjustment or just drop the armscye it'll look better. But you'll always have a few folds in a raglan sleeve like this, particularly in a non-stretch stiffer fabric; it's just the way one-piece raglan sleeves look.

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petitesewist
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petitesewist
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Date: 7/4/13 2:45 PM

Okay, so I lowered the armscye about 3/8" and brought the slope of the armscye out a bit at the notches on the front and back armscye pieces. I adjusted the sleeve pattern. I'm thinking of doing a sloped shoulder adjustment. Thanks for your advice!

PetitePear
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Date: 7/4/13 8:46 PM

I'm confused. I think what Judy said "Looks like it needs to be closer to the neck - and higher at the shoulder." means your shoulder is squarer than the pattern, not more sloped. Did lowering the armscye make it better or worse?

FWIW, I have the same slight gaping at the neck when fitting my Bunka sloper and fixed it by dropping the neckline which results in a more square shoulder slope on the pattern pieces. My method probably wouldn't really affect how your armscye fits thought.

PetitePear
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Date: 7/5/13 2:37 PM

Thinking about this some more, I really think you have slightly square shoulder, not sloped. What I would do is to raise the shoulder without moving the armscye first. Your garment is already a bit high at the neckline, so raise the shoulder by that amount and the whole thing will drop down a bit. This may give you enough room. If not then lower the armscye after that.

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