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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Bust to Waist Ratio?

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Bust to Waist Ratio?
Luckyyellowhog
Luckyyellowhog
Member since 5/2/13
Posts: 16
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 7/3/13 12:10 PM

Hello!

I am curious about a question regarding bust waist ration and darts and know that the knowledge of people on this website is wonderful so thought you might be able to help out!

If I have drafted a typical sloper of a woman's bodice and her waist is only a couple of inches smaller than her bust, can I convert some of the bust dart into the waistline to accommodate the waistline measurement? I know this will make the dart smaller.
OR does one simply add to the side seam whilst keeping the bust dart the same size? Does anyone know what major difference these 2 alterations will have?

THANK YOU!
AdaH
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AdaH
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Date: 7/3/13 12:55 PM

Darts are used to create depth not circumference, however you can more the dart or part of the dart to another area however you will not have changed the circumference, unless you do not sew the dart. If you need more circumference then add to the side seam.


-- Edited on 7/3/13 12:58 PM --

------
Ada

Luckyyellowhog
Luckyyellowhog
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In reply to AdaH

Date: 7/3/13 1:00 PM

Sorry I meant if you have one dart at the waistline for the bust dart, and hypothetically to be sewn to a skirt. So it is a tight fitting bodice. I was just wondering if you can 'lend' some of the dart intake to the waistline? One that is done you can the obviously convert it to 2 darts etc....
andye
andye  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/3/13 1:19 PM

Kenneth King's Moulage book gives formulas for the five darts that depend on nothing more than bust and hip circumference.

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Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

Luckyyellowhog
Luckyyellowhog
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Date: 7/3/13 1:25 PM

Thank you for this. Do you think I could just add on the side seam?

andye
andye  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/3/13 1:48 PM

It depends where her curves are.

Perhaps you could omit the waist suppression entirely, concentrate on getting a good fit in the shoulders, armholes, and upper torso, and then decide how the back darts, the front waist dart, and the side dart/ side seam should be arranged.

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Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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Date: 7/3/13 2:27 PM

To answer your question, Lucky, yes, add to the side seam. The purpose of the vertical waist darts is to basically show off (in a fitted way) the body in its best light. If you remove a portion of the dart in order to accommodate the waist, the dart might not be in the same position and it would not serve the purpose for which it is meant.

I say to add to the side seam allowances. That way, the body is balanced.

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Luckyyellowhog
Luckyyellowhog
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In reply to Miss Fairchild

Date: 7/3/13 9:54 PM

Thank you Miss Fairchild! This is what I expected will add to side seams on bodice and skirt, that way the dart is still taking in the excess and accommodating for the increase in the waist!
Pinkhouselady
Pinkhouselady  Friend of PR
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In reply to Luckyyellowhog

Date: 7/4/13 5:02 PM

If you add to the side seam you will have fabric at the side seam. Do you want the fabric there? You need to add fabric to the location that you want it. There some alterations that you can do to put fabric in the needed location that is too hard to go into in a general way. But if you only need a bit of space say 1" or less you can "cheat" and take some fabric from the dart and add some fabric to the side seam. But if you need a couple of inches more alterations are needed. If you just add to the side seam you may end up with little wing things over your hips! No one wants that. I had a shirt that proves just adding to the side is NOT the answer.
Luckyyellowhog
Luckyyellowhog
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Posts: 16
Skill: Intermediate
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In reply to Pinkhouselady

Date: 7/5/13 9:23 PM

It was only about 1" so, simply added that to the side and left the dart alone. It looked even, and by not taking anything away from the dart, it still retained the dart shaping.
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