Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Bust to Waist Ratio?

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Bust to Waist Ratio?
Luckyyellowhog
Luckyyellowhog
Intermediate
Member since 5/2/13
Posts: 10
Login to reply to this post

Date: 7/3/13 12:10 PM

Hello!

I am curious about a question regarding bust waist ration and darts and know that the knowledge of people on this website is wonderful so thought you might be able to help out!

If I have drafted a typical sloper of a woman's bodice and her waist is only a couple of inches smaller than her bust, can I convert some of the bust dart into the waistline to accommodate the waistline measurement? I know this will make the dart smaller.
OR does one simply add to the side seam whilst keeping the bust dart the same size? Does anyone know what major difference these 2 alterations will have?

THANK YOU!

AdaH
star
AdaH  Friend of PR
Intermediate
IA USA
Member since 11/21/09
Posts: 2463
Login to reply to this post

Date: 7/3/13 12:55 PM

Darts are used to create depth not circumference, however you can more the dart or part of the dart to another area however you will not have changed the circumference, unless you do not sew the dart. If you need more circumference then add to the side seam.


-- Edited on 7/3/13 12:58 PM --

------
Ada

Luckyyellowhog
Luckyyellowhog
Intermediate
Member since 5/2/13
Posts: 10
Login to reply to this post

In reply to AdaH <<


Date: 7/3/13 1:00 PM

Sorry I meant if you have one dart at the waistline for the bust dart, and hypothetically to be sewn to a skirt. So it is a tight fitting bodice. I was just wondering if you can 'lend' some of the dart intake to the waistline? One that is done you can the obviously convert it to 2 darts etc....

andye
andye  Friend of PR
Beginner
VA USA
Member since 5/9/09
Posts: 1850
Login to reply to this post

Date: 7/3/13 1:19 PM

Kenneth King's Moulage book gives formulas for the five darts that depend on nothing more than bust and hip circumference.

------
Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

Luckyyellowhog
Luckyyellowhog
Intermediate
Member since 5/2/13
Posts: 10
Login to reply to this post

Date: 7/3/13 1:25 PM

Thank you for this. Do you think I could just add on the side seam?

andye
andye  Friend of PR
Beginner
VA USA
Member since 5/9/09
Posts: 1850
Login to reply to this post

Date: 7/3/13 1:48 PM

It depends where her curves are.

Perhaps you could omit the waist suppression entirely, concentrate on getting a good fit in the shoulders, armholes, and upper torso, and then decide how the back darts, the front waist dart, and the side dart/ side seam should be arranged.

------
Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

Miss Fairchild
starstarstarstar
Miss Fairchild  Friend of PR
Advanced
USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 7936
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 7/3/13 2:27 PM

To answer your question, Lucky, yes, add to the side seam. The purpose of the vertical waist darts is to basically show off (in a fitted way) the body in its best light. If you remove a portion of the dart in order to accommodate the waist, the dart might not be in the same position and it would not serve the purpose for which it is meant.

I say to add to the side seam allowances. That way, the body is balanced.

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
My blog: http://auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com/

Luckyyellowhog
Luckyyellowhog
Intermediate
Member since 5/2/13
Posts: 10
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 7/3/13 9:54 PM

Thank you Miss Fairchild! This is what I expected will add to side seams on bodice and skirt, that way the dart is still taking in the excess and accommodating for the increase in the waist!

Pinkhouselady
Pinkhouselady  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 7/4/05
Posts: 4
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Luckyyellowhog <<


Date: 7/4/13 5:02 PM

If you add to the side seam you will have fabric at the side seam. Do you want the fabric there? You need to add fabric to the location that you want it. There some alterations that you can do to put fabric in the needed location that is too hard to go into in a general way. But if you only need a bit of space say 1" or less you can "cheat" and take some fabric from the dart and add some fabric to the side seam. But if you need a couple of inches more alterations are needed. If you just add to the side seam you may end up with little wing things over your hips! No one wants that. I had a shirt that proves just adding to the side is NOT the answer.

Luckyyellowhog
Luckyyellowhog
Intermediate
Member since 5/2/13
Posts: 10
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Pinkhouselady <<


Date: 7/5/13 9:23 PM

It was only about 1" so, simply added that to the side and left the dart alone. It looked even, and by not taking anything away from the dart, it still retained the dart shaping.

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting >> Bust to Waist Ratio?

Merchants on PR
Elliott Berman Textiles
Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!
Gwyn Hug
Fabric Shopping Help!
Deals!
Lanetzliving Vintage Sewing Patterns
Vintage Sewing Patterns
Deals!
Style Arc sewing dress patterns
Patterns That Fit
Web site
Victoria Jones Collection
Timeless Hawaiian styles
Web site

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Altering Jackets
Fee: $19.99
(Regular $59.00)
Altering Jackets

Online Sewing Classes
Understanding Sheer Fabrics
Fee: $39.99
(Regular $39.99)
Understanding Sheer Fabrics

Simplicity 3956 6 made easy
photo
Review by Chris Kell... on 1/17/07
Read Review

McCalls 6973 Pattern ( Size SML-MED-LRG )
McCalls 6973 Pattern ( Size SML-MED-LRG )

Details
Price: $18.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Vogue 8998 Pattern ( Size 6-8-10-12-14 )
Vogue 8998 Pattern ( Size 6-8-10-12-14 )

Details
Price: $27.50
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Butterick 5439
photo
Review by Sandi S on 6/27/08
Read Review

Oliver + S Sketchbook Shirt + Shorts Digital Pattern
Oliver + S Sketchbook Shirt + Shorts Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $15.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Peek-A Boo Jackie Dress Digital Pattern ( Size 3 mo -8 years )
Peek-A Boo Jackie Dress Digital Pattern ( Size 3 mo -8 years )

Details
Price: $7.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Sew Chic MyrtleWood Dress Pattern (ln7401)
Sew Chic MyrtleWood Dress Pattern (ln7401)

Details
Price: $18.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Newport Tote
Newport Tote

Details
Price: $8.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN