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Forum > Fitting Woes > Broad shoulders; high bust bigger than "full" bust ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Broad shoulders; high bust bigger than "full" bust
Performance clothing for a flutist
BLT

BLT
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Date: 7/4/13 2:07 PM

My daughter is a flutist and needs performance clothes. But she has a lot of trouble fitting tops because of her broad shouldersócompounded by the fact that she's always standing with her arms raised.

Here are some of her measurements:

bust 32
high bust 34 (which surprised us)
shoulder width 6.25

Looking at the Burda chart, my best judgement is that she could use a size 36 (with bust adjustment) except that they have a 4.75" shoulder width. I've seen recommendations to choose a pattern size to fit the shoulder, but that clearly isn't going to work in this case, since size 52 has a 5.5" shoulder width.

Here are some of the things I'm currently asking myself.

(1) I will probably need to do a small bust adjustment; will this be affected in any way by the fact that her high bust is greater than her full bust measurement?

(2) Is altering the shoulder width as simple as extending the shoulder line out, then swinging the armscye curve over to meet the end, extending it as necessary? (And adjusting the sleeve too, which is something I've always wanted to avoid.)

(3) I should adjust the shoulder first and then do the SBA, correct?

Thanks for any help you can give me!

Debbie Lancaster
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Subject: Broad shoulders; high bust bigger than full bust Date: 7/4/13 6:15 PM

To adjust the shoulder, slash the pattern vertically at the middle of the shoulder line, angle to the bottom of the armhole, and pivot it out. Then true up the shoulder line. That would make it unnecessary to change the sleeve cap.

Is the high bust measurement larger than the full bust measurement because she has a fuller chest, or because she has a broader back? What's her cup size? Photos front back and side would really help to figure out what kind of adjustments need to be made.
-- Edited on 7/4/13 6:17 PM --

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Debbie

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Subject: Broad shoulders; high bust bigger than full bust Date: 7/4/13 10:00 PM

Cup size is very small. Maybe tomorrow I can get her to send me some more measurements and photos. I unfortunately did her back width measurement incorrectly and realized it just too late to re-take it before she left town.

JTink
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In reply to BLT <<


Date: 7/5/13 9:31 AM

As much as I dislike "labels", sometimes it's the only way to describe. Your daughter may need an adjustment for a "Pigeon" chest. The adjustment needed is similar to one done for a broad back.

goodworks1
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Subject: Broad shoulders; high bust bigger than full bust Date: 7/5/13 1:08 PM

Can her performance clothes be made of Knits? Or does she need wovens?

Either way, you'll want to be sure the sleeve has more of an 'athletic' cut rather than a set-in sleeve (which assumes the arms will be kept low most of the time.)

I think I would not do any sort of adjustment to the bust area or the lower part of the blouse/dress until you see how the shoulders/sleeves work in ACTION. She may actually need more width across the back/shoulder on the left side and more space across the front shoulder area on the right.

Oh, I do hope she can wear knits.
-- Edited on 7/5/13 1:13 PM --

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Debbie Lancaster
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Subject: Broad shoulders; high bust bigger than full bust Date: 7/5/13 2:52 PM

It might even be easier to start with a slim men's/boy's pattern because of her proportions.

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Debbie

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Subject: Broad shoulders; high bust bigger than full bust Date: 7/6/13 6:35 PM

These are good thoughts.

She can wear knits. That's probably a good idea. And it's also probably a good idea to look at a men's pattern for the basic shape.

What an interesting idea, shaping this assymetrically! I'll have to think about that.

This is why I wanted to ask for help before I got started with this! Thanks.

dove29

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Subject: Broad shoulders; high bust bigger than full bust Date: 7/6/13 11:10 PM

She sounds a little like me when I was young. I was slim, with broad shoulders and sort of big rib cage. Some of these multi sized patterns, you can do a pretty decent broad (or broad & square) shoulder adjustment by just drawing a line on front & back from the smaller size where the shoulder meets the neck to the larger size where the shoulder meets the sleeve. Then you can taper it back to the smaller size before you get to the lower edge of the armscye. I don't know that I did much to the sleeves except for length - maybe the larger size sleeve if it works better. I don't know about small bust adjustments, though. Never thought to try it, & then I filled out...
I like the idea of knits. They move with you, too.

BLT

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Subject: Broad shoulders; high bust bigger than full bust Date: 7/8/13 10:29 AM

Okay, does anyone have any suggestions for knit tops (preferably from Burda, either envelope or magazine - I have 1/3 of the magazines from the last 10 years) that would be appropriate for performance? Obviously fabric makes a big difference here.

Modest, not ruffly but possibly drapy. And with broad shoulders, no extended shoulders or cap sleeves. I had been looking at Burda 131 from 11/12, but that's a woven.
-- Edited on 7/8/13 10:31 AM --

goodworks1
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Subject: Broad shoulders; high bust bigger than full bust Date: 7/9/13 12:00 PM

I think I'd look for patterns for athletes, like ballet dancers. Maybe Jalie would have something you'd like.

Or you could use the Burda pattern (I don't know what it looks like...do you have a link?) with a knit fabric.

I'd personally NOT make the torso smaller until you see how the lower part of the top lifts up when she's playing. You can always take it in or add vertical darts later.

And I'd definitely look for drapey fabric. The sleeve cap will need to be flatter and shaped more like a man's shirt and you'll like the overall look better if the fabric drapes over her shoulders and arms.
-- Edited on 7/9/13 12:03 PM --

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