Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Fitting Woes > Broad shoulders; high bust bigger than "full" bust ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Broad shoulders; high bust bigger than "full" bust
Performance clothing for a flutist
BLT

BLT
Intermediate
TX USA
Member since 11/4/05
Posts: 185
Login to reply to this post

Date: 7/4/13 2:07 PM

My daughter is a flutist and needs performance clothes. But she has a lot of trouble fitting tops because of her broad shouldersócompounded by the fact that she's always standing with her arms raised.

Here are some of her measurements:

bust 32
high bust 34 (which surprised us)
shoulder width 6.25

Looking at the Burda chart, my best judgement is that she could use a size 36 (with bust adjustment) except that they have a 4.75" shoulder width. I've seen recommendations to choose a pattern size to fit the shoulder, but that clearly isn't going to work in this case, since size 52 has a 5.5" shoulder width.

Here are some of the things I'm currently asking myself.

(1) I will probably need to do a small bust adjustment; will this be affected in any way by the fact that her high bust is greater than her full bust measurement?

(2) Is altering the shoulder width as simple as extending the shoulder line out, then swinging the armscye curve over to meet the end, extending it as necessary? (And adjusting the sleeve too, which is something I've always wanted to avoid.)

(3) I should adjust the shoulder first and then do the SBA, correct?

Thanks for any help you can give me!

Debbie Lancaster
star
Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 9/18/02
Posts: 1904
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 3 members like this.
Subject: Broad shoulders; high bust bigger than full bust Date: 7/4/13 6:15 PM

To adjust the shoulder, slash the pattern vertically at the middle of the shoulder line, angle to the bottom of the armhole, and pivot it out. Then true up the shoulder line. That would make it unnecessary to change the sleeve cap.

Is the high bust measurement larger than the full bust measurement because she has a fuller chest, or because she has a broader back? What's her cup size? Photos front back and side would really help to figure out what kind of adjustments need to be made.
-- Edited on 7/4/13 6:17 PM --

------
Debbie

BLT

BLT
Intermediate
TX USA
Member since 11/4/05
Posts: 185
Login to reply to this post

Subject: Broad shoulders; high bust bigger than full bust Date: 7/4/13 10:00 PM

Cup size is very small. Maybe tomorrow I can get her to send me some more measurements and photos. I unfortunately did her back width measurement incorrectly and realized it just too late to re-take it before she left town.

JTink
star
JTink
Intermediate
VA USA
Member since 4/20/08
Posts: 5706
Login to reply to this post

In reply to BLT <<


Date: 7/5/13 9:31 AM

As much as I dislike "labels", sometimes it's the only way to describe. Your daughter may need an adjustment for a "Pigeon" chest. The adjustment needed is similar to one done for a broad back.

goodworks1
star
goodworks1  Friend of PR
Advanced
IL USA
Member since 7/19/03
Posts: 3620
Login to reply to this post

Subject: Broad shoulders; high bust bigger than full bust Date: 7/5/13 1:08 PM

Can her performance clothes be made of Knits? Or does she need wovens?

Either way, you'll want to be sure the sleeve has more of an 'athletic' cut rather than a set-in sleeve (which assumes the arms will be kept low most of the time.)

I think I would not do any sort of adjustment to the bust area or the lower part of the blouse/dress until you see how the shoulders/sleeves work in ACTION. She may actually need more width across the back/shoulder on the left side and more space across the front shoulder area on the right.

Oh, I do hope she can wear knits.
-- Edited on 7/5/13 1:13 PM --

------
blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com

Debbie Lancaster
star
Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 9/18/02
Posts: 1904
Login to reply to this post

Subject: Broad shoulders; high bust bigger than full bust Date: 7/5/13 2:52 PM

It might even be easier to start with a slim men's/boy's pattern because of her proportions.

------
Debbie

BLT

BLT
Intermediate
TX USA
Member since 11/4/05
Posts: 185
Login to reply to this post

Subject: Broad shoulders; high bust bigger than full bust Date: 7/6/13 6:35 PM

These are good thoughts.

She can wear knits. That's probably a good idea. And it's also probably a good idea to look at a men's pattern for the basic shape.

What an interesting idea, shaping this assymetrically! I'll have to think about that.

This is why I wanted to ask for help before I got started with this! Thanks.

dove29

dove29  Friend of PR
Intermediate
USA
Member since 4/28/07
Posts: 1090
Login to reply to this post

Subject: Broad shoulders; high bust bigger than full bust Date: 7/6/13 11:10 PM

She sounds a little like me when I was young. I was slim, with broad shoulders and sort of big rib cage. Some of these multi sized patterns, you can do a pretty decent broad (or broad & square) shoulder adjustment by just drawing a line on front & back from the smaller size where the shoulder meets the neck to the larger size where the shoulder meets the sleeve. Then you can taper it back to the smaller size before you get to the lower edge of the armscye. I don't know that I did much to the sleeves except for length - maybe the larger size sleeve if it works better. I don't know about small bust adjustments, though. Never thought to try it, & then I filled out...
I like the idea of knits. They move with you, too.

BLT

BLT
Intermediate
TX USA
Member since 11/4/05
Posts: 185
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Subject: Broad shoulders; high bust bigger than full bust Date: 7/8/13 10:29 AM

Okay, does anyone have any suggestions for knit tops (preferably from Burda, either envelope or magazine - I have 1/3 of the magazines from the last 10 years) that would be appropriate for performance? Obviously fabric makes a big difference here.

Modest, not ruffly but possibly drapy. And with broad shoulders, no extended shoulders or cap sleeves. I had been looking at Burda 131 from 11/12, but that's a woven.
-- Edited on 7/8/13 10:31 AM --

goodworks1
star
goodworks1  Friend of PR
Advanced
IL USA
Member since 7/19/03
Posts: 3620
Login to reply to this post

Subject: Broad shoulders; high bust bigger than full bust Date: 7/9/13 12:00 PM

I think I'd look for patterns for athletes, like ballet dancers. Maybe Jalie would have something you'd like.

Or you could use the Burda pattern (I don't know what it looks like...do you have a link?) with a knit fabric.

I'd personally NOT make the torso smaller until you see how the lower part of the top lifts up when she's playing. You can always take it in or add vertical darts later.

And I'd definitely look for drapey fabric. The sleeve cap will need to be flatter and shaped more like a man's shirt and you'll like the overall look better if the fabric drapes over her shoulders and arms.
-- Edited on 7/9/13 12:03 PM --

------
blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Broad shoulders; high bust bigger than "full" bust

Merchants on PR
Style Arc sewing dress patterns
Patterns That Fit
Web site
Victoria Jones Collection
Timeless Hawaiian styles
Web site
So Vintage Patterns
Thank You for Joining!
Deals!
Fitz Like a Glove Ironing Board Cover
Made In Australia
Deals!
SewBaby
Unique Sewing Patterns
Deals!

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Expert Sewing Techniques for Jackets
Fee: $49.00
(Regular $49.00)
Expert Sewing Techniques for Jackets

Online Sewing Classes
The Contemporary Couture Jacket
Fee: $49.00
(Regular $49.00)
The Contemporary Couture Jacket

Kwik Sew 3292 Misses Jackets
photo
Review by Frozzy on 12/8/07
Read Review

Salme Pleat Front Sleeveless Dress Digital Pattern
Salme Pleat Front Sleeveless Dress Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $8.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Oliver + S Bedtime Story Pajamas Digital Pattern (Size 6M-3T)
Oliver + S Bedtime Story Pajamas Digital Pattern (Size 6M-3T)

Details
Price: $15.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

brerrabbit.com The Wiggle Dress
photo
Review by ZoSews on 5/27/13
Read Review

Petite Plus 102 Pattern
Petite Plus 102 Pattern

Details
Price: $21.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Sewing Workshop Village Bag Pattern
Sewing Workshop Village Bag Pattern

Details
Price: $12.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Butterick 5946 Pattern ( Size 6-7-8 )
Butterick 5946 Pattern ( Size 6-7-8 )

Details
Price: $15.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Kwik Sew 3922 Pattern
Kwik Sew 3922 Pattern

Details
Price: $10.99
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN