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Forum > Fitting Woes > Altering For a Small Neck ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Altering For a Small Neck
Longblades
Longblades
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Date: 7/8/13 11:40 AM

My pattern size has gone from 10, even 8, to 14 measuring by my bust, waist and hips. But my skinny neck is still a size 10. Internet searches for this pattern adjustment weren't satisfactory and it's not something in any of my books or my university sewing 101, which had quite detailed pattern adjustments.

I have been drawing the neckline smaller as I found on one web site but my differences between neck size and bust size are quite dramatic and the effect is often not good.

Anybody else with this discrepancy? What do you do?

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 7/8/13 1:37 PM

Which is the 10? The bust, waist or the hips?

Wouldn't a multi-size pattern work where you cut as needed for these various areas of measurement?

When in doubt, muslin the problem area, adjust and apply.

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"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

Longblades
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Date: 7/8/13 2:03 PM

My neck fits a size 8 or 10 pattern. The rest of me fits a size 14 pattern. Not all multisize patterns have all those sizes on one. Even when they do I'm not sure where to angle lines to join one size to another. Plus, angling lines seems ok for small adjustments but this is a rather big one. And I'd like to at least be able to draw some adjustments on the paper before cutting a muslin.

I don't think I've ever seen a guideline to how much ease is allowed in a neck. I can find that for bust, waist and hips but not for neck. Anybody know that?

nancy2001
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In reply to Longblades <<


Date: 7/8/13 5:46 PM

My neck is long and thin, and I am pear shaped, though slender (33-25-36). I sew knit tops and tailored jackets and choose my necklines very carefully to make sure they're flattering to my long, thin neck and the rest of my figure.

For knit tops, I sew tops with a relative high neckline -- usually a high V-neck, turtleneck, or variation of the two. For jackets, I choose necklines with a built up collar and lapels. I don't use commercial patterns but have taken my time to develop a basic TNT and modify the neckline for variations.

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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

PattiAnnJ
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In reply to Longblades <<
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Date: 7/8/13 7:56 PM

This method is easy to use and there is no cutting and taping the pattern to get the variation in size/fitting that is needed.

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"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to Longblades <<


Date: 7/9/13 8:55 AM

I've had similar issues; shoulder length is 4.5 inches and neckline is 14" but bust is 39-40 inches, which on a regular pattern has a 15" neck and a 5" shoulder length.

I took a fitting class here on PR and now have a template to fit these areas. The class was a long time ago, given by a person who was very thorough and is no longer on PR. The Pivot and Slide method I highly recommend for you. A now retired home ec teacher friend of mine used this method when teaching her students. It's simple and easy to adapt to any pattern.

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JTink
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In reply to PattiAnnJ <<


Date: 7/9/13 9:16 AM

PattiAnn thanks for posting that link. I've never seen the pivot and slide method in action. I have her book, but found it confusing to comprehend. I learned early on, by doing the FFRP methods. After seeing how the pivot and slide works, I'm going to give it a try on my next simple blouse.

Longblades, what is your cup size? If you cut the smaller neck and do an FBA, you will gain the width you need below the neck.

Longblades
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In reply to PattiAnnJ <<
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Date: 7/9/13 9:54 AM

Quote: PattiAnnJ
This method is easy to use and there is no cutting and taping the pattern to get the variation in size/fitting that is needed.

Well THAT was certainly different from what I learned. I always have to lengthen the CB seam of pants, skirts and dresses, and not the CF. Or if the CF needs lengthening then the CB needs more. And I need to lengthen the length, for a 33" inseam in pants, etc. I guess I need to buy the book or video because I watched all of that short clip and on the pants lengthening at the CB it seemed the inseam was reduced and no comment was made on how to restore it. I've been doing slash and spread, which is how I was taught.

Do you have the book or DVD? Does it address my neck problem? Most books don't, that I've found.
Longblades
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Date: 7/9/13 11:28 AM

My neck is 13". Shoulder 4.5" Favourite bra is 34C but only in that one, that size is too big in most bras. Bust is 38" High Bust is 36"

Oh, wait, that makes me a size 16 instead of 14.

So, really? Buy a pattern by the neck size and adjust EVERYTHING else? Heck, I threw out all the size 10s I had from when I was a young thing, 5' 8" tall and only 115 pounds. Now I'm the weight those stupid BMI charts say I should be.

I'd still like to know what ease is usually given for wearing ease in a neck measurement. Of course this will vary by the style of the pattern but this number is often available for bust, waist and hips but I've never seen it for the neck. I just googled and nothing came up to help.

Anybody?

And yes, I do look out of proportion. My head is small to go with my skinny neck. Hats don't fit. I wear children's size glasses frames and when I have dental work or some recent hearing tests and ear treatment much exclamation is done about having to use the small tools they usually use for children. So if I'm sounding stupid here, blame it on my peabrained skull. :)


-- Edited on 7/9/13 2:13 PM --

Marie367
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In reply to Longblades <<


Date: 7/9/13 11:30 AM

I have the same problem with many patterns. Cutting a smaller neck works most of the time for me. I have also redrawn the neckline. I have also just created a dart in the pattern at the neckline-I don't sew this in; I cut it out that way. The dart at the neckline doesn't affect the rest of the front or the back. Whatever you do to the neck you also have to do to a collar or facing. Here are some simple alterations that someone included on a post a few years ago NM alterations They are very simple alterations which give me a place to start-they are also free.

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