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Forum > Fitting Woes > Seeking advice on armhole/shoulder to program for success ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Seeking advice on armhole/shoulder to program for success
Please hold my hand on this one
Sewandwrite
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Date: 7/9/13 7:59 PM

Last night, I paid to have the second muslin ofSimplicity 2648 pin fitted. I am really, really trying to do everything I can to ensure success on this project and I wasn't going to let the lack of a fitting buddy stymie me.

At the very end of the fitting, I fretted over whether I needed to do a narrow shoulder adjustment -- about 1/4 inch. (After muslin #1, I had concluded I didn't really need it, but that was before I did other adjustments.)

The lovely, experienced costumer who pinned me up suggested I simply shave off 1/4 inch from the armhole and sleeve. She even marked this change on my pattern for me.

But simply cutting back the armhole and sleeve is an anathema to what I've read about shoulder adjustments. I am stuck.

Please weigh in, oh Oracles of PR.

Does it really matter if I trim off this 1/4"? Or will doing a narrow shoulder adjustment adjustment for 1/4" lead to a better end product?

I've implemented the 1/4" cut on muslin #2 to check it out -- but I can't tell. The armhole does not seem too low. But there is no zipper in the muslin and no one to pin me, so I can't really see how this affects the fit.

KiwiWendy
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Date: 7/9/13 8:05 PM

I shave off approx 5/8ths of an inch every time and it works for me. My shoulders are slightly square as well as narrow, so doing a narrow shoulder adjustment isn't right for me.

What works is what counts!

I don't quite understand what you mean by saying 'low' in the 2nd version. Do you mean the underarm part of the armscye or the garment shoulder overhanging your physical shoulder into the arm area?

------
Sydney, Australia

Sewandwrite
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In reply to KiwiWendy <<


Date: 7/9/13 8:20 PM

Quote: KiwiWendy

What works is what counts!



I don't quite understand what you mean by saying 'low' in the 2nd version. Do you mean the underarm part of the armscye or the garment shoulder overhanging your physical shoulder into the arm area?

Low -- means the underarm part of the armscye. I don't think my bra band was visible.

My sister, who lives 2,700 miles from me, recommended I quickly install a cheap zipper and try it on. Because as you point out, what works is what counts!
Sewandwrite
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In reply to Sewandwrite <<


Date: 7/9/13 9:31 PM

Zipper insertion brought up a new issue that didn't appear in muslin pinning: the back neck gapes. At least two other PR reviewers of this pattern had the same problem. Will take care of that before cutting.

I decided that trimming the 1/4" off the armscye is definitely is needed to get the sleeve in the right place. But the trimming of the armscye and sleeve head -- combined with the forward shoulder adjustment -- made the front sleeve pleat meet the bodice right at the shoulder seam. It it looks weird. I am disappointed -- I wanted sleeves and can't fathom how to adjust them so the pleats fall evenly to the front and back. Ah, for a simpler sleeve!

I felt so positive about the fitting last night. Now, I'm really confused and wonder if it was a waste of money and time. I did so hope for good results.

simplystitches
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In reply to Sewandwrite <<


Date: 7/9/13 10:01 PM

How did she/you do the forward shoulder adjustment? The sleeve markings also change when this is done so the pleat shouldn't be right at the seam.

Debbie

goodworks1
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Date: 7/9/13 10:24 PM

Move the pleat to wherever you want it. Or move the shoulder seam back. You're in charge.

------
blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com

Sewandwrite
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In reply to simplystitches <<


Date: 7/9/13 10:24 PM

Hi Debbie --

I did the FS adjustment. I know the "dot" at the front of the sleeve should move forward too by the same amount as the adjustment on the bodice pieces. But that would make the underarm seam not match up with the side seam. Do I need to cut off part of the back of the sleeve and tape it to the front at the underarm?

KiwiWendy
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In reply to Sewandwrite <<


Date: 7/9/13 11:32 PM

Quote: Sewandwrite
But that would make the underarm seam not match up with the side seam. Do I need to cut off part of the back of the sleeve and tape it to the front at the underarm?

You can do that, or you can ignore the fact they don't line up. Whatever works for you .... how many people are going to see that part of the seam?

------
Sydney, Australia

simplystitches
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In reply to Sewandwrite <<


Date: 7/10/13 0:30 AM

It depends on the way that the forward shoulder was done. If you removed from the front and added to the back the shoulder dot gets moved forward. That doesn't affect where the seam is at the underarm. It still lines up. All you're changing is the top of the sleeve markings. If that is the way that you did the alteration you would also move the shoulder pleats forward on the sleeve the same amount. Then they won't land at the shoulder seam. HTH

If you think it through it's a natural progression it's forward shoulder=forward dot=forward pleat. Does that make sense?


Debbie

diane s
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Date: 7/10/13 1:24 AM

When I make a narrow shoulder adjustment, I leave the sleeve alone and only move in the shoulder seam on the the bodice.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

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