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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Simplicity 8523 - Swayback Adjustment ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Simplicity 8523 - Swayback Adjustment
It throws everything off . . .
demoiselle
demoiselle
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Date: 7/10/13 2:27 PM

If you were following my attempts to make Simplicity 8523 fit my form better (and advising me, thank you!), you know that I'm nearly there. I've just got to get that swayback adjustment into my traced, adjusted pattern.

On my muslin, I did a 1" fold tapering out to nothing at the hems. I placed that fold 1.5" above the waistline, where it seemed to me and hubby to smooth the back of the shirt the most.

Now I'm dismayed because--though it fixes the problems when I pin up my second muslin (I can post pictures if you like), when I go to put the adjustment onto my pattern paper, it throws everything out of wack.

1. I knew I'd have to draw in a new center back line, but it looks like this will add fabric to the back.

2. Worse, I spent a lot of time working on adding to the hip on my pattern (grading in from a size 12 to a size 8 at the waist). Now the nice flair at the hip has pulled inward and disappeared. Now, the back hem is narrower than the waist!

I am not sure how to get the swayback adjustment in and keep the taper from waistline to hip.

Do you have any suggestions? I was expecting the first problem, but I didn't anticipate the second, which--with my need for more hip room--seems more serious.

::feels frustrated that this simple shirt is posing such problems::

::erm, learning opportunities for all::
-- Edited on 7/10/13 2:28 PM --

------
Yes, I started a blog.
http://demoiselledesigns.wordpress.com/

MilongueraThreads
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MilongueraThreads
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Date: 7/10/13 2:51 PM

Not sure if this will help or not, but I've used Nancy Zieman's pivot-and-slide adjustment for swayback with success; it seems to be the easiest way to make this adjustment without ending up with weird looking pattern pieces.

Basically, when tracing the back bodice, trace everything except the top lines (collar, shoulder, etc.). Slide the pattern down however much you need the swayback adjustment, then trace the collar. Pivot/rotate the pattern out to trace out to the armscyce.

demoiselle
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In reply to MilongueraThreads <<


Date: 7/10/13 3:05 PM

Thank you. I'm trying to envision how that would look/work (especially since I had to drop the waistline already, plus tapering out).

I just got a book in the mail that may have pointed out my mistake. I need to make sure that the fold ends at or before the seam allowance in the paper pattern. That might help with the distorted waist/hip. Then I'd only have to draw in new grainlines/center-back.

ETA: I'm probably also taking too much fabric out of the center back (It's a 1" tuck in the center) . . . but that is what makes the top feel like it fits when pinned. Perhaps that means that there are yet more fit issues that I missed. It certainly seems like the swayback adjustment is too large (at least per what I'm reading in this tutorial.
-- Edited on 7/10/13 3:17 PM --

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http://demoiselledesigns.wordpress.com/

demoiselle
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Date: 7/11/13 11:21 AM

Any suggestions? I'm really worried about the added back-width when I redraw the center-back fold-line and the reduced room in the hips. Every alteration affects something else. :-(

Is it possible that I'm not sway-backed, and the problem comes from somewhere else entirely?
-- Edited on 7/11/13 11:36 AM --

------
Yes, I started a blog.
http://demoiselledesigns.wordpress.com/

MilongueraThreads
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MilongueraThreads
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Date: 7/11/13 12:19 PM

Try this link:
http://www.fitthat.com/swayback.htm

demoiselle
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Date: 7/11/13 1:07 PM

THANK YOU! I am going to print that out for future reference.

Here is a link to my blog which has images of the shirt both pre-swayback-pinning and post. There is just SO much extra fabric there.

------
Yes, I started a blog.
http://demoiselledesigns.wordpress.com/

demoiselle
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Date: 7/11/13 4:15 PM

By jove . . .



I think I got it. The swayback part, anyway. I followed the instructions linked above, took 2 full inches out of the center of the back, and now it looks a lot better.

Heck, now it's so much less baggy that you can see the wrinkles caused by my mild scoliosis/higher hip. But I think trying to fix that too would be overkill. I also think I should have kept the length below the waistline about an inch longer (because it's hitting unhemmed where I'd like it to hit hemmed). That I might be able to fix.

Now--unless you see something else to give me feedback on--I guess I'll have to try and find out of the facings still fit now that I've done the swayback adjustments.

Then I decide if I want to make this shirt with my fabric, or apply the lessons I learned here to make something different.



(Lesson for the "final fabric" would be how much drape affects this shirt and how not to have starbursts on my bosom.)

------
Yes, I started a blog.
http://demoiselledesigns.wordpress.com/

MilongueraThreads
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MilongueraThreads
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Date: 7/11/13 5:48 PM

Some other ideas:
http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2010/12/sway-back-alterations-my-analysis.html

Glad to have helped! It's a pesky alteration to make, but pretty easy compared to, say, FBA.

Debbie Lancaster
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Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
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In reply to demoiselle <<
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Date: 7/11/13 8:22 PM

Quote: demoiselle
(Lesson for the "final fabric" would be how much drape affects this shirt and how not to have starbursts on my bosom.)

Wow, that's really looking good!

To avoid the starbursts on the bosom, trace your pattern onto something semi transparent (marking the bust point), cut two, and tape together on the center front. That way you can position the piece exactly how you want it. The other place to avoid starbursts is the most rounded part of your bum. Don't ask me how I know...

------
Debbie

demoiselle
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Date: 7/12/13 9:46 AM

Thank you!!

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Yes, I started a blog.
http://demoiselledesigns.wordpress.com/

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