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flat felled seam
Lori Githens
Lori Githens  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/12/13 1:42 PM

I'm confused. I'm making a lightweight madras print blouse and want to as least make the side seams flat felled. I have a couple of flat felled feet for my Pfaff. I've made up several samples and they are great, technique isn't a huge problem.
But when I check my books, internet and YouTube, I see so many different methods. It just has me a bit confused.

In most of them, I can't figure out how to determine the seam allowance that's used up in the seam. My blouse pattern is a 3/8 sa, and I'm wondering if it's possible to make a flat felled seam in that smaller sa?

------
Hello my name is Lori and I have SMAD

my latest love is Pfrancie, my Pfaff Performance 5.0 (but can't put my Bernina 153QE away !)

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 7/12/13 2:44 PM

Maybe if you serge the edges of the seams together, then press to one side and top stitch will get a very similar effect.

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"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

minggiddylooloo
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Date: 7/12/13 3:31 PM

I think it's possible to make it with the 3/8" SA but it would probably be really fiddly.

I like my flat felled seams to be 1/4", starting with a 1/2" seam allowance.

You might consider making some samples and test out what works with your fabric.

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Hauteaway
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In reply to minggiddylooloo <<


Date: 7/13/13 3:28 AM

I have little to add to the excellent suggestions, but I have to say that's the best use of the word fiddly, ever.
-- Edited on 7/13/13 3:28 AM --

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YAN: Yet Another Nancy

Ms. McCall
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Date: 7/13/13 5:16 AM

Are you using a 3/8" SA on your samples? Are you samples on scraps of the fabric you intend to use?

If both of the answers above are 'yes', then I don't see why you couldn't do it on your shirt

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BrownPaperPattern.blogspot.com

Lori Githens
Lori Githens  Friend of PR
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In reply to Ms. McCall <<


Date: 7/13/13 7:25 AM

Quote: Ms. McCall
Are you using a 3/8" SA on your samples? Are you samples on scraps of the fabric you intend to use?



If both of the answers above are 'yes', then I don't see why you couldn't do it on your shirt

I think that's what confuses me. Most of the directions I've read have you offset the two edges of the fabric and sew, then wrap, or wrap one edge over the other and then turn. (sorry, not good at being descriptive) I can't tell what my SA is. I tried marking the 3/8 " SA on my fabric and seeing if I could see where it goes after stitched, and it's pretty much in the middle of the welt part of the seam. But I just can't tell exactly how much fabric I used up. I was worried I'd lose circumference in the body of the blouse.

I just went ahead and sewed a small flat felled seam in my blouse using my smaller flat fell foot. It looks good and seems to be fine size wise, I just can't tell what the actual SA is.

------
Hello my name is Lori and I have SMAD

my latest love is Pfrancie, my Pfaff Performance 5.0 (but can't put my Bernina 153QE away !)

minggiddylooloo
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Date: 7/13/13 9:10 AM

I must do flat fell seams differently than the directions you've described, ha ha. I do my flat fell seams without the off-set, trim the excess fabric from one side down to 1/8" and then fold over the remaining side and top stitch.

I do have flat fell feet but sometimes it's faster doing it manually than getting all the accessories out.

Glad to hear it worked. I think the important thing here is your first SA is accurate so your garment will fit correctly no matter which method you use.

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I'm finally a blogger!
sewming.blogspot.com

wendyrb
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In reply to minggiddylooloo <<


Date: 7/13/13 10:00 AM

Completely agree with minggiddylooloo. And you too! You have to know what the seam allowance is, otherwise you are either stealing fabric from your garment or adding extra to your garment. The first run of stitching on a flat fell is on your seam line- 5/8", 3/8" or whatever. Trimming can be done before stitching the seam or after.
* Trim 1st- I think this is easier as you just deal with 1 flat garment piece. Mark the stitch line on the skinnier under layer that will be wrapped later, mark the amount to trim and trim it 1st. The amount you leave determines the finished width of the seam. Then match up the marked seam line with the original stitch line on the untrimmed joining piece. I'd sew with the trimmed piece on top so I can keep the extending piece visible and even while sewing.

* Trim After 1st Stitch Run- Mark the amount you need to trim off on the under layer, then make the first stitch run. Now you're dealing with a 3-D garment, so trim off on the marked line being careful not to nick your garment. HTH.

With 3/8" seam your finish is 3/16". If you are working with bulky cloth like denim, wools, etc. you need to do a sample to see what the "turn of the cloth" picks up. You could end up short with not quite enough left to tuck under and top stitch down.

I've never used a flat fell foot- you've inspired me to get hold of one. Thanks!

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

beauturbo
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Date: 7/13/13 2:34 PM

I think only having 3/8 seam allowance is getting pretty small to try to do a flat fell seam allowance (as in having that extra above what you want the finished garment to measure) on something, no matter how you do it. Just since even if folding it by hand, I think you are going to then end up with turn of the cloth and everything else in there with a maybe a flat fell seam that is only someplace between 1/8 and 2/8 inches wide and even though that could be done on some really soft and thin and flexible fabric by folding by hand and using sort of a pin point or needle to help you do that, it would be real fiddly and a pain to do and not even look that great.

So what I think you are really asking instead, is if you just bolt that folder on the machine (no matter what one it is) how do you figure out out much fabric it takes up when it does it's folding bit? If so, and you really don't know, and can't get that from some manufacturer someplace or documentation, then you can always just figure it out yourself.

Just take two rectangular strips of same fabric. Feed them into that folder pushed in all the way, and sew out your seam. Then afterwards, take a pen, and draw pen marks on the folds of the fabric there. Then pick out all your stitches with a pin or a seam ripper. . Now measure from the stitches and folds of the fabric to the raw ends of the fabric. Then you know for sure. It might change a tiny bit with just even different fabrics with the turn of the cloth even.

I also think maybe you are stressing over something that won't matter at all though. Just because if it is a woven shirt, it probably already even has at least 3 or 4 inches of past your body measurements in it, width wise to go around you for more loose garment wearing ease, and unless you really intend to make it fitting real tight on you, a quarter to even a half an inch or more finished garment width there is probably not going to make any difference in the wearing of it, in the end anyways. I guess if you were really making some woven shirt instead that was super tight fitting, and with about zero wearing ease though, in that case it really might make it too small to get on, but not most of the time at all.
-- Edited on 7/13/13 2:36 PM --

Lori Githens
Lori Githens  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/13/13 4:58 PM

I figure I'm probably concerned about something that isn't that big of a deal. I was just wanting to know for future reference (since the one I just finished seems to be fine)

But I did decide that I was going to do something similar to what you suggested. Take two samples the same size and do a 3/8 sa in one, and my flat felled seam in the other and measure them to see how far off my seam is. But since I've done several samples, I guess I could do what you suggest also.

I bought these felling feet years ago and I think this is the first time I've used one. I know flat felled seams can be made without a foot, but it's nice to use the foot when I already have it.

------
Hello my name is Lori and I have SMAD

my latest love is Pfrancie, my Pfaff Performance 5.0 (but can't put my Bernina 153QE away !)

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