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Pattern drafting from book
Notches
ccris
ccris
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Date: 7/13/13 1:07 AM

How does one determine where to place notches on a pattern drafted from a book, specifically, matching sleeve cap to armscye? I have several pattern drafting books and there's no mention in any of them on where to place notches. It's probably so simple, the authors never dreamed anyone would ask such a silly question!

Muldini
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Date: 7/13/13 6:04 PM

I mark some notches on the bodice/armhole. Then when walking the pattern to check all the seams are the same length, draw corresponding notches on the sleeve cap.

I'm not very experienced with drafting but guess the notches roughly signify where the curves change from convex to concave...

Is that kind of in the right area for an answer?

GlButterfly

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In reply to Muldini <<


Date: 7/13/13 7:33 PM

This sounds like a good answer to me. Notches can also signify an area to be eased, such as two notches on the back shoulder or the cap of a sleeve.

Some say notches are arbitrary, but from everything I've come across in drafting books, notches are where they are for a reason. On a long seam, such as a floor length skirt or pantlegs, they may also be for matching two pieces.

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Brine
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Date: 7/13/13 8:26 PM

I have a copy of the third edition of Helen Joseph-Armstrong's Patternmaking for Fashion Design which gives instructions for where to place ease control notches on the back and front of the sleeve. Basically it involves dividing the front and back of the sleeve cap's initial straight lines on the draft (before you draw the curves there) and dividing them into four equal lengths. The ease notches are placed three quarters of the way down to the biceps level. A second notch is placed 1/2" below the notch on the sleeve back. On the other hand the patterns in the Burda magazine only have one notch on the front of the sleeve which is matched to the single notch on the armhole of the bodice. So. . . :

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Brine

Mole Princess
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Date: 7/13/13 9:29 PM

Notches help guide the sewer in aligning seams of the same length but different shapes, so I think the notch near the underarm seam at the place where the sleeve slope changes helps in that way. A new sewer may have trouble telling whether she has pinned or basted correctly without them. Then, if the cap has ease, notches will help show between where should the easing occur.

I think maybe one has to know one's sleeve and also one's sewing ability. If you don't need the notches to guide you in sewing, and the pattern is for you, then leave them out. If you need only the easing ones, then include only those. But if the sleeve doesn't even HAVE ease . . . then just marking the peak of the cap so you can match it to the shoulder seam might be enough. Etc.

ccris
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Date: 7/13/13 10:49 PM

Thanks everyone. Every post helped me see how each individual makes the determination of where to place the notches.......love that!

Brine, your description of how HJA makes that determination on the sleeve cap was golden. I can easily visualize it. Does she also have a formula for matching those sleeve cap notches to the bodice armscye.......where to put them? I'm guessing one would measure the notch distance from the underam on the sleeve cap, and then measure that same distance from the underarm on the armscye. Then again, HJA may have a more accurate formula.

Miss Fairchild
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Date: 7/13/13 11:53 PM

As I understand from a Peggy Sagers video, the notches are where the french curve pivots to make the sleeve cap.

But, I work with Lutterloh patterns, which have no notches anywhere, and make the notch in the curve just before it goes up to the cap.
-- Edited on 7/13/13 11:54 PM --

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