International UNITED KINGDOM Member since 10/12/04 Posts: 173 Skill: Intermediate
Date: 7/16/13 8:53 AM
I am making a jacket with shoulder princess seams. I am using modified "speed tailoring" techniques, ie no hair canvas and pad stitching. All the advice I have seen about interfacing the front and staying the back seems to be based on armhole princess lines. I tend to fuse the front interfacings and make a sewn-in lightweight woven cotton back stay. I hesitated over the back stay, wondering whether to sew the centreback and princess seams in the stay and the face fabric separately and then sew the stay into the neckline, shoulder and armhole seams. In the end I fused light interfacing onto the centre front and heavier interfacing onto the front facing/ lapels and onto the upper part of the side front to prevent a hollow chest effect, and placed cotton stays into the upper part of centre and side backs so the face fabric and the stays were treated as a single layer in all the seams.
What would you have done?
I made Jalie 2559 and only did a small amount of tailoring. To make the back stay, I traced around the assembled back and cut out the piece on the fold. You can do this directly on the fabric without making a separate pattern piece. I also interfaced the jacket and sleeve hems.
I also fused the entire front with interfacing as well as the sleeve and jacket hems. In the next version, I'll tape the lapel and collar roll lines.
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Sewing Techniques and Tips >> Shoulder princess jacket - interfacing