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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Colette Laurel ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Colette Laurel
How can I perfect this muslin? Advice please.
Periey
Periey
Beginner
WA USA
Member since 12/17/09
Posts: 14
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Subject: Colette Laurel (Finally Pictures Loaded) Date: 7/17/13 3:08 AM

I worked on this muslin more hours than I care to admit. This is the only pattern that I actually made a muslin. It's a very simple silhouette, so it seems like a good pattern to learn about fitting. This pattern is designed for pear shaped women, but I am like an upside down triangle. The front has those verticle wrinkles from the bust apex running down to the sides. The back looks all wrong. I think I cut a size 6 on the top but graded down to 2 from waist to hem. I haven't finished the hem, shoulder, neckline, or hem. I want to make this muslin perfect before I start using some of my nicer fabric. Please help. Thank you all!
side/back
back
side/back
front
side
back

Figured out why my pictures weren't loading. My brain definitely works better in the morning after a cup of joe.
-- Edited on 7/17/13 12:39 PM --

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Please excuse my poor grammar. English is my second language.

LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
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CA USA
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 7/17/13 4:21 PM

The fit looks pretty good through the shoulders and bust. It looks generally too big through the midsection (although the Laurel's not supposed to be tight-fitting through the tummy, so some of that is the style) and I think it needs to be shortened between the bust and waist - you've got all the excess fabric hanging down to the butt which is why your side seams are tilting. Maybe you just need to shorten between the bust/waist in back, and not in front? Try pinning a wedge out, biggest at CB and tapering to the side seam, and see if that helps the hang.

Hopefully some more expert fitters will chime in. :)

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Periey
Periey
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In reply to LauraTS <<


Date: 7/17/13 5:56 PM

Thank you Laura; very astute observation. I definitely didn't adjust that part of the pattern. I guess I kinda forgot that I am short. I will try to fix it tonight after the kiddos go to bed.
-- Edited on 7/17/13 5:57 PM --

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Please excuse my poor grammar. English is my second language.

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/18/13 8:09 AM

Agreed, you need to try to pin out some of that excess at the lower back. When you've done that, you'll better be able to see what you've got.

I do see some diagonal strain going upwards to the bust and gaping at the upper armholes, though. Perhaps you need just a little more room in the bust? But start With the back.

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Melanie

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to Periey <<


Date: 7/18/13 9:04 AM

Wow! Laura's right on and so is Meleliza. To add my bit, you are apparently shortwaisted, which shows mostly in the back because the fabric is hanging on your hips rather than going over them. Shorten your backwaist about 1/2", maybe up to 1". Pin this first to see how it looks.

Also, the gaping at the neckline especially on the right side shows maybe your right side is askew from your left. I have a problem very similar to this as I have a spine curvature. You didn't show your left side for me to compare, but I'd bet your shoulder blade on your right side is more pronounced than your left. So you need to make a shoulder dart on your right side. Make that dart about 1/4" deep, right in the middle of the shoulder; just enough to make that gap behave. You can also pin the gap where it sits, to give you an idea of just how full to make that dart, then make the dart at the shoulder. To make the back look symmetrical, slash the left side shoulder and spread it 1/4" to make a dart there.

Now the front. I can't see if this pattern has diagonal or French darts. Collette to me is a French name, but that doesn't mean she uses French darts. That being said, I think what you need to do is a small FBA. The diagonal folds below the bust show that they are trying to get fabric from the back, which means there isn't enough to go around this area, and an FBA would help.

I'd bet the backwaist length on this pattern is 16" and yours is about 1" shorter, or more.

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