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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Another grain line question

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Another grain line question
JTink
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JTink
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Date: 7/17/13 9:20 AM

I'm working with a pants pattern and have just taken about 5/8 off the front crotch point and added it to the back crotch point. Do I need to redraw the grain lines? When is it necessary to redraw grain lines?

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 7/17/13 12:29 PM

No. The grain line is at the center of the leg.

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I dont give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think its Hell. Harry Truman

"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

JTink
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Date: 7/17/13 1:12 PM

Thanks again PattiAnn, once again you have come to my Grain line aid When is it necessary to actually redraw the grain line on pants? I do quite a few adjustments at crotch level and above. Does the adjustment have to be below a certain level before it affects the grain line?

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 7/17/13 1:17 PM

Lay the pattern out. There should be a straight of grain line. Keep this even with the selvage edge. It does not have to be rocket science perfect.

------
I dont give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think its Hell. Harry Truman

"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

simplystitches
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Date: 7/17/13 2:19 PM

Any adjustments from the knee down will affect the grain line on pants.

If you were to add or take out a wedge higher up, ala Peggy Sagers, it would shift the grain above the wedge. Then you would need to redraw the grain above the wedge so that it matches the grain below the wedge. Just an example of when/where it would change.

Debbie

JTink
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Date: 7/17/13 6:13 PM

Simplystitches, that's what I needed to hear. I have, unfortunately, already cut out my material. I've noticed that most grain lines only go as far as the crotch line. I've never known it to be necessary to line up the grain any higher than that.

Still having problems with that two inch butt thing. I'm determined to find the combination that's going to fix it. The center back wedge is putting me closer to the goal.
-- Edited on 7/17/13 6:38 PM --

simplystitches
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Date: 7/17/13 8:26 PM

Quote:
I've noticed that most grain lines only go as far as the crotch line. I've never known it to be necessary to line up the grain any higher than that


I usually run mine all the way up. If you do anything that changes the grain above the crotch any pieces (pockets, pocket bags, fly pieces, etc.) that are above the crotch need to have the grain changed to match the new above crotch grain.

I'm a wee bit obsessive about grain lines!

Debbie
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Date: 7/18/13 1:47 PM

Oh My! I didn't even think about changing out the grain on the dibs and dabs. How do you figure out the change? Say in a fly or pocket? Do you have a good source on how to learn more about grain lines?

I went back and checked the grain line on the pants. Even after making a wedge, the grain line barely moved.

-- Edited on 7/18/13 1:48 PM --

simplystitches
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Date: 7/18/13 10:45 PM

Quote:
Even after making a wedge, the grain line barely moved


No, it really doesn't change much so truly it probably wouldn't matter that much if they were changed or not.

The way that I change all the bits is to extend the new grain line all the way to the top of the pants. Line up each pattern piece as it relates to the garment and use the pant leg grain and a 6" (it's usually wide enough) quilting ruler to measure an equal distance to redo the grain. It usually changes about the same as the pant grain line.

I can't really think of a good source to learn about grain lines. It's something I've picked up as I've gone along. The cf and cb of most tops, jackets, dresses etc. are always on the straight of grain. If I've made any alterations that I think may have changed the grain line on any of the pieces, say a princess seamed shirt, I do the same as I said above. Go back to the original grain line and line everything up and check it.

I think once you understand how and where grain lines are placed it makes it easier to change them if needed.

Debbie
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