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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Narrowing shoulders on a t shirt - a question

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Narrowing shoulders on a t shirt - a question
marymary86
marymary86
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Date: 7/17/13 11:32 AM

When one narrows the shoulders, does anything have to be done to the sleeve?

Do you raise the sleeve cap by the same amount to meet it?

------
Mary


marymary86
marymary86
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Date: 7/17/13 11:36 AM

Shoulder adjustments

I guess not. It makes sense when I think about it. That extra width isn't on my shoulder so the sleeve doesn't have to go that distance and more.

(I love the way y'all let me talk to myself on these forums. Something about writing my question down helps me research and think it through.)

eta: I didn't make the alteration that way though. I just used a French curve and drew from the new shoulder line down to the armhole notch.


-- Edited on 7/17/13 11:37 AM --

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Mary


LauraTS
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Date: 7/17/13 4:26 PM

I just did a narrow shoulder adjustment on a Sorbetto the Colette way, and it worked great. It doesn't change the armscye at all which means you don't have to change the sleeve. The one thing I'd note is that it does/can change the slope of the shoulder seam (if you're narrowing it generally makes it more steep, which I tend to need anyway with sloping shoulders). Something to note if you have narrow but square shoulders, or wide but sloping ones.

BTW, I have had a few patterns where I've made this kind of adjustment, and then did have to go back and enlarge the sleeve and armscye - previously the slightly dropped armscye seam meant that my upper arm was borrowing room from the bodice, and when the bodice was narrowed I suddenly didn't have enough room in the sleeve.

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marymary86
marymary86
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In reply to LauraTS <<


Date: 7/17/13 5:52 PM

Thanks Laura - that was really helpful. Your comments will help me evaluate the fit after I sew this next version.

I wish I had thought to buy a lot of yardage of the same fabric. I made this first top of RPL knit and next up is some ITY. I should probably get more RPL (trying to just work on one variable at a time).

------
Mary


marymary86
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Date: 6/4/14 1:11 PM

bumping this thread as I sewed another muslin after narrowing the shoulder ....

The sleeve became too tight. Everything fit well on the first muslin except that the shoulder was way too wide).

I don't have pictures of what happened after I sewed the 2nd muslin but I made notes that I just found.

The first muslin is pictured here:

Jalie 2005

Should I try adding the amount to the sleeve cap that I subtracted from the shoulder width?

------
Mary


frame
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frame
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In reply to marymary86 <<
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Date: 6/4/14 1:54 PM

Narrowing the shoulder shouldn't make the sleeve too tight. Do you mean the sleeve was too tight on your arm or too tight (small) to fit into the sleeve opening? If the sleeve is too tight on your arm, then the sleeve is too small, but the width of the sleeve has nothing to do with fitting narrow shoulders.

If you have any books that talk about how to do a narrow shoulder adjustment, you should check them out. I don't think I could explain it any better than those books do. If you don't have any fitting books (you should definitely get one), then I think you should click on the "Search Board" button at the top of the page (on the right), put narrow shoulder in the search box, choose "Title & Descriptions" and click search. This question has been asked and answered by those more qualified than me. HTH

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"I meant what I said, and I said what I meant." - Horton(Dr. Seuss)

marymary86
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Date: 6/4/14 2:45 PM

I searched and found another thread where several recommended using Nancy Zieman's method for narrowing a shoulder.

Narrowing a shoulder affecting sleeve

I looked it up and it's amazing. I also saw that I narrowed the shoulder way too much. Bunny (Solosmocker here I think) just wrote a blog post where she linked to PACC standards for fit and that was an eye opener for me. I was envisioning a much smaller shoulder but that document says the seam should extend about 1/2 inch past the shoulder bone.

La Sewista - The dumbing down of FIT

------
Mary


lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/4/14 2:47 PM

You may have to add to the sleeve cap. When you narrow the shoulders, you are making the armhole seam line for the sleeve longer. You may need to accommodate for this by increasing the the sleeve cap so the sleeve will still fit in the armhole.

Or look at it this way, you need more cap height for it to sit higher on your shoulder without distorting the sleeve.


ETA: Ignore this. I have corrected myself in a later post after reviewing the comments.

-- Edited on 6/4/14 4:01 PM --

frame
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In reply to lca <<


Date: 6/4/14 3:29 PM

You don't have to add to the sleeve cap if you use the method described in Nancy Zieman's book. That's the method I use to narrow shoulders. It doesn't affect the length of the sleeve cap at all.

You don't just narrow the shoulder seam, you raise the side seam under the arm and it keeps the armhole opening the same size. No need to adjust the cap of the sleeve at all.

It is also described well in the following books:
* Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration / Edition 2 by Elizabeth L. Liechty, Della N. Pottberg-Steineckert, Judith A. Rasband
*Pattern Fitting with Confidence by Nancy Zieman
* The Sew/Fit Manual: Making Patterns Fit: A Guide to Pivoting and Sliding by Ruth Oblander, Joan Anderson

I think they have all been reviewed here on PR under the book reviews. HTH

------
"framed" was taken
"I meant what I said, and I said what I meant." - Horton(Dr. Seuss)

marymary86
marymary86
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Posts: 3179
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In reply to lca <<
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Date: 6/4/14 3:29 PM

I'll add to the top of sleeve the same around I take away from the shoulder and baste the sleeve in to check.

Just a few more chores and I can trace the pattern off again...

------
Mary


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