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Forum > Fitting Woes > Tuck in back pant alters grainline - how to redraw grainline ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Tuck in back pant alters grainline - how to redraw grainline
xtreme1
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xtreme1
AUSTRALIA
Member since 7/23/07
Posts: 180
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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Date: 7/18/13 3:12 AM

A quick question about grainline. I cut across the back pant pattern below the buttocks and overlap at the back inseam and out to nothing at the back side seam. This has the effect of swinging the back pant leg inwards for a knock knee.

To redraw or true the new grainline before placing the pattern onto fabric, do I follow the original grainline above the alteration and extend it all the way down or do I extend the altered grainline below the alteration up to the top of the pattern? I'm thinking I should extend the grainline above the alteration.

Sarsez
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Sarsez
Australia
Member since 7/2/09
Posts: 795
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 7/18/13 3:20 AM

For the vast majority of woven pants, the hem is always perpendicular (ie right angles) to the straight grain. HTH

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xtreme1
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xtreme1
AUSTRALIA
Member since 7/23/07
Posts: 180
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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In reply to Sarsez <<


Date: 7/19/13 1:51 AM

Thank you for your response, Sarsez.

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to xtreme1 <<


Date: 7/19/13 9:04 AM

I use the method that Sandra Betzina uses. On the front only, about a half inch down from your crotch point, draw a horizontal line all the way across from inseam to side seam. Measure the half way point of this line(if it's 14 inches, your half way point is 7 inches) and mark it. Now go down to the hem and measure about 2 inches up. Draw another horizontal line. Measure and mark the half way point(if it's 8 inches, your half way point is 4 inches). With a yard stick, draw a line connecting the two halfway points. This is your new grain line for the front...Now for the back.

Draw the horizontal line at the crotch point as you did for the front. Now go over to the side seam and measure in one half inch, make a mark. From that mark, measure over to the inseam, mark the half way point. (Sandra doesn't know why this works, but it does. I've also seen this method in a Japanese sewing book). Now go down to the hem and draw a line as you did for the front, mark the half way point. Connect your two marks and you have the back grain line. Hope this helps.

xtreme1
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xtreme1
AUSTRALIA
Member since 7/23/07
Posts: 180
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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In reply to JTink <<


Date: 7/20/13 3:07 AM

That's really handy to know, JTink. Thanks.

creative1
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creative1
International AUSTRALIA
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Date: 7/20/13 9:31 AM

I stopped doing this alteration for my knock knee long ago. Instead I simply add a bit ( in my case 2 cm) to the inseam at the knee level and also at the bottom of the pant on both front and back and connect all three points. Much less confusion!

xtreme1
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xtreme1
AUSTRALIA
Member since 7/23/07
Posts: 180
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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In reply to creative1 <<


Date: 7/21/13 3:24 AM

I know if you have a knock knee stance you are supposed to lengthen the inseam as you have said in your post, creative1. My knees touch when I stand with my legs together yet I require less length at the inseam, thus the wedged dart I take out at the inseam and across to nothing at the outseam. If I don't do that the top couple of inches of the back inseam ripple a bit and is obvious from the front.

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