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Fitting question for the new Retro patterns
When ladies had a waist!
gramma b
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gramma b
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Member since 7/25/08
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Date: 7/18/13 1:36 PM

My DIL wants NL 6143 in a Retro floral.
I made a muslin of just the bodice to fit when we visit, but have
to mail back the finished dress. She's a fit RTW 4.
So, to fit with back, front, and bust darts, back zip, where do you start to take in/out to have the least changes--side seams,
darts, ??

Haven't made anything that fitted as waists (waste) here are nowhere to be found....sigh.

Mole Princess
Mole Princess
Member since 4/17/12
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Date: 7/18/13 4:38 PM

It depends on her shape. Side seams are the least complicated but you can't handle everything there. Basically, from the side, the darts need to take in enough fabric to make the fabric flow correctly over the bust, and from the front, the side seams need to follow the shape of the person's side shape. This is what it takes to keep grain lines doing what they should.

Sarah Veblen's picture book of fitting would be very helpful for you.

nicegirl
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nicegirl
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Date: 7/18/13 4:47 PM

It is my understanding that the vintage reissues from the Big 4 have been redrafted to the modern block, so you shouldn't have to do any different/additional alterations than you would to any other Big 4, pattern illustrations with tiny waists notwithstanding! (And my experience in sewing actual vintage patterns with tiny-waisted illustrations is that they have nearly as much ease in the waist as modern patterns anyway.)

------
http://theslapdashsewist.blogspot.com
=================
2007: purchased 115+, sewed 105+
So close to parity, yet so far

Trying again in 2008
Yards purchased: 133
Yards sewn: Somewhere around 95

2009? I give up

gramma b
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gramma b
USA
Member since 7/25/08
Posts: 3127
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In reply to nicegirl <<


Date: 7/18/13 5:26 PM

Thanks! Scarlett O'Hara was a cinched 18", would be considered Anorexic today.


Some suggested a Princess-seam pattern instead for great fit, but I chose that one for the Outside Bands on neckline/arm--copied from pricey Aussie naughtyshorts.blogspot.com dresses she found on Pinterest. She uses the retro-type side zip. Also like the pleats, as they will lay flat and I don't have a ruffler for really nice gathering.

So, what HINTS are there for darts where bust-meets-waist darts?
Only a couple Reviews on this pattern.

I don't have a serger to finish Princess seams RTW-style.
Using a vintage-type floral sheet-like fabric from Etsy. She's in a fashionable big city where I guess Vintage 40's-50's is back among the young. My mother and friends always wore "housedresses" like that in the 50's, never pants.

DIL is a RTW 4, so I'm going by a 34 bust on pattern, no one else in family that little so I have no experience.
Just wondering, how those waists were tiny when they had a lot more babies back then...?

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