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Forum > Fitting Woes > Side seams on pants, grain line or ? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Side seams on pants, grain line or ?
sewmore
sewmore
Intermediate
Member since 12/7/06
Posts: 24
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Date: 7/20/13 1:06 PM

I have been working on fitting pants off and on this summer. I am currently making the pants as shorts to save on fabric. I copied a ready to wear pair of pants to make the pattern.

I thought I was very close to having the right fit, the front and back looked good. The side seams were hanging straight. Then I noticed that the side of the pants seemed to drift in toward the knee, even though there was plenty of fabric.

So I pinned a little tuck in the front side of the pants near the side seam and that seemed to fix the drift.

But I wondered about the problem, so I ripped out the basted side seam almost to the waist to see how the pants would fall once the seam was released. Well, the front of the pants went off at an angle toward the inseam.

So then I ripped the rest of the seam to the waist and adjusted the front so the seam would hang straight. In order to do this I had to pull up the front side seam almost three inches.

Is this caused by the fabric being off grain? My body being off grain?

I think I need some chocolate.

sued5320
sued5320
Advanced Beginner
Nebraska USA
Member since 6/6/13
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Date: 7/20/13 10:02 PM

I always thought the hem was to be perpendicular to the grain line. If that's the case then the side seam cannot be on grain.

Other than that, I'm afraid I can't assist.

JuliN
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JuliN  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/21/13 8:07 AM

I had that problem with my trouser sloper. Everything was fitting perfectly, then I noticed the side seam and inseam twisted slightly from knee to hem. Kenneth D. King goes over how to fix this in his Threads DVD. You want to correct the side and inseams on your pattern pieces to correspond to the twist (what I did) OR transfer the tuck you folded out of the fabric to the pattern piece. You should be good to go then. Good luck, pants fitting can be an arduous journey!

------
My measurements = 47-35-43. Height = 5ft11in.
RTW size =18 on top, 14/16 on bottom.
Sewing size = 20 and I alter from there.

Sewmissy2
Sewmissy2
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Missouri USA
Member since 12/5/10
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Date: 7/21/13 12:25 PM

I believe the grainline should run down the center of the legs if you fold the side seam to the inseam on each leg, there will be a crease there and that crease will be on grain if it is correct. For flat pattern, fold the seams together and make sure when the seams are matched on the inseam to the side seam, the grainline runs along where you fold it, all the way up to the center of the waist dart.

hope this helps

------
Designer 1, bought in 2000
Simplicity 350 serger, bought about 1997
3 Tajima Neo single head embroidery machines
Digitizer by profession
Embroidery software: Tajima DGML by Pulse (commercial) also know Designer's Gallery and Floriani for home use.

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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New York USA
Member since 12/28/04
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In reply to sewmore <<
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Date: 7/21/13 7:37 PM

First of all, you really need to make your pants muslins full length to see how they hang. Your stance and your calf affect how your pants hang.
It's not your fabric grain, it's your body. I had a similar issue. It's easier to see where the problem lies if you make a muslin with grainline and knee and high hip line drawn in and showing on the outside of your pants. Then you can see where the lines go off perpendicular and horizontal. This will give you a frame of reference for fitting.
I buy a bolt of muslin with a coupon at JoAnn's so that I have plenty of cheap muslin around for making muslins.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

grey ann
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grey ann  Friend of PR
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New York USA
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Date: 7/21/13 10:53 PM

Nancy K is right. It is worth it!

sewmore
sewmore
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Posts: 24
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Date: 7/24/13 2:54 PM

Thanks everyone for your help, I'll try another muslin full length with all the lines drawn in. I kept thinking of that old song, " it's my body (party) and i'll cry if I want to" LOL, now it won't go away.

Good idea about using a coupon to buy a bolt.

Thanks again and good luck with all your fitting!

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