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Seam edges on unlined jacket
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Date: 7/20/13 2:37 PM

Hi

First time here. I hope I've put this in the right place.

I'm about to make a summer jacket, unlined, from reasonably-lightweight furnishing fabric 100% cotton.

I'm thinking ahead to the internal seam edges and wonder what you'd do.

My first thought was bias tape on both sides of seam edges, but having measured all the pattern parts (I have not cut this out yet), it seems to add up to over 12 metres. That's centre back seam, side seams, side panel seams, both sleeve part seams, sleeve head and shoulder seams, and curved inside facing seams. (Not the hem.)

My preferred seam is lap+fell, but I already think the fabric is too heavy for that. Alternatively to bias-taped edges, I could turn the edges under and just stitch them without going through to the front, or, turn the edges under and stitch right through to the front.

This is not a couture jacket and I cannot imagine anyone looking inside and critiquing my seam finishes: but they will have to be finished somehow.

Which finish would you use?

ps. since there is no preview function I hope that turns out ok.

nancy2001
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Date: 7/20/13 2:48 PM

Welcome to PR, Handshake!

I line all my jackets, but if I were sewing a quick and casual unlined jacket for summer, I would try to keep things very simple. After all, you're not planning to wear this jacket inside out.

If you own a serger you could serge the seams to keep them from unraveling and then press the seams open or off to one side. If you don't own a serger, you could use your sewing machine's overlock or zigzag stitch.

You can always conduct a test with a swatch of fabric and see what you think. Good luck.




-- Edited on 7/20/13 2:48 PM --

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Date: 7/20/13 3:34 PM

Hi Nancy

I had never heard of serger until I started to research this, so no, I don't have a serger.

You are right, I should try all seam finishes with a spare piece of fabric (once I've cut it out) to see which one suits this fabric weight.

BTW, Hong Kong finish I had never heard of before either; but it seems to be what I had in mind with bias tape. I learned how to sew many many years ago, maybe the terminology has moved on in that time.

ps. I am still uneasy about this fabric weight, but it's too late now, I've bought it!

Many thanks.

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Date: 7/20/13 6:17 PM

You could mix it up. If you want the sleeves slippery to slide over some other sleeves maybe they might need to be lined? If worn over sleeveless stuff, probably not an issue though. Could even line the front, where you might see it most, if worn open and not the back? If so, less binding to do.
-- Edited on 7/20/13 6:18 PM --

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Date: 7/20/13 8:07 PM

Rayon seam binding? Tutorial I've seen something similar done with lace, too. You'll have to decide which would be the most appropriate for your fabric and the "vibe" you want.

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Date: 7/20/13 11:31 PM

Handshake, like you I'd never heard of serger until I joined PR. But they do make it a breeze to finish seams neatly and quickly.

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Date: 7/21/13 5:59 AM

I had never heard of a serger either. It is a fascinating machine, takes construction to a new level and is fun to use and I could never give it up now. I had also not known about machine embroidery or computerized machines. I was stuck in a 20+ career that left no time for sewing- or anything else! PR was a life saver in restoring my health after a military medical discharge.
Welcome!

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Date: 7/21/13 7:42 AM

Hi, I've thought some more about this (and still have yet to cut the fabric).

It's a Burda pattern 7074 http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/58050

The dart on the front (hidden by the pocket when finished) is what I can only describe as cut-out. You have to cut (quite a long way) into the front section, fold back and sew together, then turn and sew again, making an almost right-angled dart when finished. The edges of this finished dart will therefore be unfinished.

(internet research only comes up with 'french dart' to try to describe that, but on this jacket it's two darts in one, at right-angles)

I think I will have to line this jacket rather than finish all the seams with tape (my first idea), because of this unfinished dart-edges situation.

Does that make sense to anyone? I hope so!

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Date: 7/21/13 8:00 AM

Yes. I think it makes much more sense to line your jacket. I line all my jackets. It gives a smoother line, and I don't have to spend a lot of time and effort finishing seams no one will ever see. I don't enjoy that kind of busy work.

I recommend you use a bemberg rayon lining. Rayon breathes (polyester lining doesn't) and you will stay much cooler since bemberg rayon stays cool to the touch.

By the way, your jacket has what's known as a waist fitting dart.

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Date: 7/21/13 8:48 AM

The new issue of "Sew News' has a complete article on binding seams on unlined jackets. Perhaps you can find a copy.

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Linda

Bernina 830LE - Brother Dreamweaver VQ3000 - Bernina B530 - Janome 6600P - Pfaff 1209 - Babylock Evolution - Janome 644 - Babylock Sashiko2 - Babylock BLCS-2

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