SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Facing a shirt sleeve placket ( Moderated by MissCelie)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Facing a shirt sleeve placket
suesewserge
suesewserge
Member since 4/21/11
Posts: 274
Send Message

      



Date: 7/21/13 1:25 PM

I'm looking at putting in "doghouse" type (I've heard them called... I think there's another description as well I can't recall?) plackets in some shirtsleeves. I haven't done this in awhile but last I did I was working with a very crisp firm fabric. This time not so much. Starching hasn't obtained the stability I need to put these in nicely so I'm thinking I just need to interface, fusible is what came to mind first so I did a sample. Handled much better and looks good, but there's interfacing showing from wrong side since you have to fuse/interface an area beyond the stitching line.

Has anyone else ever used interfacing on this type placket and what did you do to "clean up" the backside? It's a microknit, I have done shirts out of it before but with those plackets where you just make a binding so to speak along the slit then the top folds over the back part and you can stitch the folded edge in place (make sense?). I would really prefer this other placket type. Thanks!

Elona
star
Elona  Friend of PR
Advanced
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 8617
online now
Send Message

      



In reply to suesewserge <<


Date: 7/21/13 4:04 PM

An old Sandra Betzina article suggests that interfacing a classic sleeve placket is a perfectly acceptable approach.

I have never found any other mention of this technique, but it seems like a good idea for difficult, wobbly fabrics, if one chose the right interfacing.

Since there is so little information about this, you might just have to experiment with swatches of your microknit to come up with the best solution.

dscheidt

dscheidt
Member since 6/8/09
Posts: 396
online now
Send Message

      



In reply to Elona <<


Date: 7/21/13 7:40 PM

Quote: Elona
An old Sandra Betzina article suggests that interfacing a classic sleeve placket is a perfectly acceptable approach.



I have never found any other mention of this technique, but it seems like a good idea for difficult, wobbly fabrics, if one chose the right interfacing.



Since there is so little information about this, you might just have to experiment with swatches of your microknit to come up with the best solution.

No RTW shirt I've ever taken apart (and I've done lots, all over the price range) has ever had the placket interfaced. That's not to say you can't do it, of course, just that factories don't. I've tried it, and never found it useful.
Elona
star
Elona  Friend of PR
Advanced
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 8617
online now
Send Message

      



In reply to suesewserge <<


Date: 7/22/13 4:03 AM

Aha! Although I still have not found any other references to interfacing the placket pieces, here is a Threads article about using fusible tape to make things more precise and stable.

Pam~Off The Cuff~
star
Pam~Off The Cuff~  Friend of PR
Expert/Couture
New York USA
Member since 4/18/05
Posts: 129
Send Message

      



In reply to suesewserge <<


Date: 7/22/13 10:21 AM

As a professional shirt-maker, I only apply interfacing to a sleeve-placket if I cut it on the bias, and then I only use a particular interfacing that I developed myself and have have custom-milled.

If you just interface the placket pieces, there should be nothing at all to "clean up" on the wrong side of the sleeve.

------
~Pam

Pamela Erny
OFF THE CUFF ~Style~
www.Off-The-Cuff-Style.blogspot.com
and My Store...
www.FashionSewingSupply.com !

Elona
star
Elona  Friend of PR
Advanced
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 8617
online now
Send Message

      



In reply to Pam~Off The Cuff~ <<


Date: 7/22/13 12:16 PM

Quote: Pam~Off The Cuff~
As a professional shirt-maker, I only apply interfacing to a sleeve-placket if I cut it on the bias, and then I only use a particular interfacing that I developed myself and have have custom-milled.


Good advice from a pro! Thank you, Pam.

In searching the web concerning this subject, I did run across remarks by one male shirtmaker who said that interfacing the placket pieces was something he found more successful for older men. It seems the younger men roll up their sleeves, and the interfaced placket doesn't roll well. Bias interfacing should help with that problem.
Karen31
star
Karen31  Friend of PR
Advanced
USA
Member since 1/25/09
Posts: 1299
Send Message

      



Date: 7/22/13 2:03 PM

Thanks for this topic.
I'm not sure what is meant by microknit but I have made a few from microsuede which is a knit. There are different variations of these, some just feel like that old fashioned "brushed flannel" I remember my mom loving in the 70s, others really feel suede like but are of different weight. I've used heavier ones for non-garment items but the ones I have used for shirts have been readily available from - Joann's! They feel like a chamois. Very fluid.
I have done the regular (for lack of better word... ?straight?) plackets but last one I did I also used this doghouse type. It was a bear to get right. Mainly because the fabric was so fluid. Finally the lightbulb came on and I realized why and I did use a lightweight fusible on the placket (luckily I had lots of extra fabric to practice). It helped but the sleeve itself into which I would put it was still quite wiggly. So (another lightbulb!) I decided I should also use the interfacing on the wrong side of the sleeve opening where I would be sewing the placket. That worked, it was beautiful from the outside, but inside there was fusible interfacing around the placket insertion where I installed it to stabilize the sleeve.
I don't know if this is what OP meant but I have one I want to make out of this same chamois like fabric for a gift this month and want it looking as nice inside as out. It's the interfacing that extends around the placket on sleeve that's the challenge - how do I keep that darn sleeve firm for the insertion/topstitching without having leftover interfacing showing inside? I thought of using a spray adhesive with some lightweight tearaway stabilizer so I could perf off the edges but then the stabilizer would be inside the placket/sleeve (I'm fine with the light fusible on the placket itself).

Any suggestions with this in mind? Thanks!

------
Karen

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Sewing Techniques and Tips >> Facing a shirt sleeve placket

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Sewing with Slippery & Drapey Fabrics
Sewing with Slippery & Drapey Fabrics

Register

The Contemporary Couture Jacket
The Contemporary Couture Jacket

Register

New Look 6213

photo
by: ColeenS

Review
DVD - Will this fabric work for you?

DVD - Will this fabric work for you?

Buy Now
Victoria Jones Collection 309 Womens' Long Dress

Victoria Jones Collection 309 Womens' Long Dress

Buy Now

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.