SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Platinum Sponsor
Bernina
Bernina

Forum > Men Who Sew > custorm dress shirt pattern ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
custorm dress shirt pattern
andye
andye  Friend of PR
Virginia USA
Member since 5/9/09
Posts: 1980
Skill: Beginner
Send Message

      



Subject: custom dress shirt pattern Date: 7/22/13 8:24 PM

I'm looking to draft a modern dress shirt to custom measurements. I'd like it to end up with all the pieces that you might find in a good dress shirt pattern-- under collar, collar stand, etc.

Given instructions, I'm fairly adept at drafting patterns, and have all the necessary tools. But the algorithm would be nice.

Are there any books that I should look for? I prefer exact formulae and precision to "draw a curve that pleases the eye"-- my eye was not trained on Saville row.

-- Edited on 7/22/13 8:24 PM --
-- Edited on 7/22/13 8:33 PM --

------
Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

Pam~Off The Cuff~
star
Pam~Off The Cuff~  Friend of PR
New York USA
Member since 4/18/05
Posts: 129
Skill: Expert/Couture
Send Message

      



In reply to andye <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 7/23/13 7:53 AM

Hi Andye,

Shirtmaking, including hand-drafting the patterns that I use...is something I do almost every day.

When I used to teach Menswear Shirt Pattern Drafting and Finishing Techniques at the college level, I required my students to have this book--the first 85 pages are all about shirt drafting from a set of measurements. There is no sewing instruction in this book...it is only about drafting patterns. Shirts (dress and casual), Jackets, and pants. Countless kinds of collars, yokes, sleeves, cuffs, etc are covered.

Fundamentals of Men's Fashion Design, A Guide to Casual Clothes Gary Onishenko and Edmund Roberts

Mine does not have an IBSN...but here's the amazon link to edition I have and still refer to from time to time--

http://www.amazon.com/Fundamentals-Mens-Fashion-Design-Clothes/dp/0870055143/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1374579986&sr=1-2&keywords=Fundamentals+of+Men%27s+Fashion+Design


Happy Shirt-Making,

~Pam

------
~Pam

Pamela Erny
OFF THE CUFF ~Style~
www.Off-The-Cuff-Style.blogspot.com
and My Store...
www.FashionSewingSupply.com !

andye
andye  Friend of PR
Virginia USA
Member since 5/9/09
Posts: 1980
Skill: Beginner
Send Message

      



Date: 7/23/13 9:18 AM

I'll keep an eye out for a copy. Does the tailored clothes volume by the same author cover the same material?

------
Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

MilongueraThreads
star
MilongueraThreads
Texas USA
Member since 9/17/07
Posts: 443
Skill: Intermediate
Send Message

      



Date: 7/23/13 10:02 AM

David Coffin's Shirtmaking has good templates for collars, collar stands, and drafting a shirt block.

Pam~Off The Cuff~
star
Pam~Off The Cuff~  Friend of PR
New York USA
Member since 4/18/05
Posts: 129
Skill: Expert/Couture
Send Message

      



In reply to andye <<


Date: 7/23/13 12:05 PM

No...different subject matter.
A shirt, even if drafted to wear to the office with a neck-tie...comes under the very broad category of "casual"...according tho these authors.

David Coffin and I are "professional friends", (in fact we had a nice long conversation a few weeks ago)... and while his book is very good, it does not address "How to draft a custom shirt pattern from a set of measurements". There are a few pages about draping, how to copy an existing shirt., etc, and some info about adapting patterns. Good sewing information, however. ( *** If missed the step-by-step shirt-block drafting instructions when I just dug out David's book to look for them...someone please cite the page numbers for me, thanks***)

But whatever...just this Shirt-Maker's professional opinion :)

~Pam
-- Edited on 7/23/13 12:13 PM --

------
~Pam

Pamela Erny
OFF THE CUFF ~Style~
www.Off-The-Cuff-Style.blogspot.com
and My Store...
www.FashionSewingSupply.com !

andye
andye  Friend of PR
Virginia USA
Member since 5/9/09
Posts: 1980
Skill: Beginner
Send Message

      



Date: 7/23/13 1:48 PM

While rooting around in my library, I did come across "Die Züschneiderkünst: Waschescneiderei" which seems to have a complete shirt pattern. I will have to translate it, though.
-- Edited on 7/23/13 2:23 PM --

------
Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

AnotherSteve
AnotherSteve
Member since 8/9/13
Posts: 3
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Send Message

      



Date: 8/9/13 4:51 PM

I don't know if you're still looking for a pattern drafting reference. I wanted to do the same thing, and picked up a copy of The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Design: Menswear, by Lori A. Knowles. Can't recommend it highly enough. It is like an engineering textbook, walking you through all the steps to build up a custom pattern sloper from your measurements, then adjust that sloper for different garment styles.

andye
andye  Friend of PR
Virginia USA
Member since 5/9/09
Posts: 1980
Skill: Beginner
Send Message

      



Date: 8/9/13 5:18 PM

Thanks for the recommendation; I'll keep it in mind.

------
Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

kcurtis
kcurtis  Friend of PR
Colorado USA
Member since 12/15/12
Posts: 805
Skill: Advanced
Send Message

      



In reply to andye <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 8/15/13 1:07 PM

Mike Maldonado has some excellent videos on shirt making.

Link to his site.

Link to his His Youtube Channel

------
Just a hack that sews for a living. ;)

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Men Who Sew >> custorm dress shirt pattern

Merchants on PR

Patterns from the Past


vintage sewing patterns
Deals!

Reconstructing History


Historical Patterns
Web site

Nature's Fabrics


Natural & Organic Fabrics
Deals!

Elliott Berman Textiles


Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!

Style Arc sewing dress patterns


Patterns That Fit
Web site

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Online Class
Fun with Fitting - BODICE w Darts
Fun with Fitting - BODICE w Darts

Class Details

Online Class
Understanding Interfacings
Understanding Interfacings

Class Details

McCall's 6078

photo
by: BlossomKyl...

Review
DVD - Will this fabric work for you?

DVD - Will this fabric work for you?

Pattern Details
J Stern Designs Top with two collars and a Peplum Pattern

J Stern Designs Top with two collars and a Peplum Pattern

Pattern Details

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2015 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.