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Message Board > Men Who Sew > custorm dress shirt pattern ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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custorm dress shirt pattern
andye
andye  Friend of PR
Beginner
VA USA
Member since 5/9/09
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Subject: custom dress shirt pattern Date: 7/22/13 8:24 PM

I'm looking to draft a modern dress shirt to custom measurements. I'd like it to end up with all the pieces that you might find in a good dress shirt pattern-- under collar, collar stand, etc.

Given instructions, I'm fairly adept at drafting patterns, and have all the necessary tools. But the algorithm would be nice.

Are there any books that I should look for? I prefer exact formulae and precision to "draw a curve that pleases the eye"-- my eye was not trained on Saville row.

-- Edited on 7/22/13 8:24 PM --
-- Edited on 7/22/13 8:33 PM --

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Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

Pam~Off The Cuff~
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Pam~Off The Cuff~  Friend of PR
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NY USA
Member since 4/18/05
Posts: 117
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In reply to andye <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 7/23/13 7:53 AM

Hi Andye,

Shirtmaking, including hand-drafting the patterns that I use...is something I do almost every day.

When I used to teach Menswear Shirt Pattern Drafting and Finishing Techniques at the college level, I required my students to have this book--the first 85 pages are all about shirt drafting from a set of measurements. There is no sewing instruction in this book...it is only about drafting patterns. Shirts (dress and casual), Jackets, and pants. Countless kinds of collars, yokes, sleeves, cuffs, etc are covered.

Fundamentals of Men's Fashion Design, A Guide to Casual Clothes Gary Onishenko and Edmund Roberts

Mine does not have an IBSN...but here's the amazon link to edition I have and still refer to from time to time--

http://www.amazon.com/Fundamentals-Mens-Fashion-Design-Clothes/dp/0870055143/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1374579986&sr=1-2&keywords=Fundamentals+of+Men%27s+Fashion+Design


Happy Shirt-Making,

~Pam

------
~Pam

Pamela Erny
OFF THE CUFF ~Style~
www.Off-The-Cuff-Style.blogspot.com
and My Store...
www.FashionSewingSupply.com !

andye
andye  Friend of PR
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VA USA
Member since 5/9/09
Posts: 1850
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Date: 7/23/13 9:18 AM

I'll keep an eye out for a copy. Does the tailored clothes volume by the same author cover the same material?

------
Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

MilongueraThreads
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MilongueraThreads
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TX USA
Member since 9/17/07
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Date: 7/23/13 10:02 AM

David Coffin's Shirtmaking has good templates for collars, collar stands, and drafting a shirt block.

Pam~Off The Cuff~
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Pam~Off The Cuff~  Friend of PR
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NY USA
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Posts: 117
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In reply to andye <<


Date: 7/23/13 12:05 PM

No...different subject matter.
A shirt, even if drafted to wear to the office with a neck-tie...comes under the very broad category of "casual"...according tho these authors.

David Coffin and I are "professional friends", (in fact we had a nice long conversation a few weeks ago)... and while his book is very good, it does not address "How to draft a custom shirt pattern from a set of measurements". There are a few pages about draping, how to copy an existing shirt., etc, and some info about adapting patterns. Good sewing information, however. ( *** If missed the step-by-step shirt-block drafting instructions when I just dug out David's book to look for them...someone please cite the page numbers for me, thanks***)

But whatever...just this Shirt-Maker's professional opinion :)

~Pam
-- Edited on 7/23/13 12:13 PM --

------
~Pam

Pamela Erny
OFF THE CUFF ~Style~
www.Off-The-Cuff-Style.blogspot.com
and My Store...
www.FashionSewingSupply.com !

andye
andye  Friend of PR
Beginner
VA USA
Member since 5/9/09
Posts: 1850
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Date: 7/23/13 1:48 PM

While rooting around in my library, I did come across "Die Züschneiderkünst: Waschescneiderei" which seems to have a complete shirt pattern. I will have to translate it, though.
-- Edited on 7/23/13 2:23 PM --

------
Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

AnotherSteve
AnotherSteve
Advanced Beginner
Member since 8/9/13
Posts: 3
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Date: 8/9/13 4:51 PM

I don't know if you're still looking for a pattern drafting reference. I wanted to do the same thing, and picked up a copy of The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Design: Menswear, by Lori A. Knowles. Can't recommend it highly enough. It is like an engineering textbook, walking you through all the steps to build up a custom pattern sloper from your measurements, then adjust that sloper for different garment styles.

andye
andye  Friend of PR
Beginner
VA USA
Member since 5/9/09
Posts: 1850
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Date: 8/9/13 5:18 PM

Thanks for the recommendation; I'll keep it in mind.

------
Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

kcurtis
kcurtis  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CO USA
Member since 12/15/12
Posts: 394
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In reply to andye <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 8/15/13 1:07 PM

Mike Maldonado has some excellent videos on shirt making.

Link to his site.

Link to his His Youtube Channel

------
Just a hack that sews for a living. ;)

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