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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Jacket pattern: lapels

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Jacket pattern: lapels
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UNITED KINGDOM
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Date: 7/23/13 12:01 PM

I've got another jacket pattern (without that waist dart), and have cut out all the relevant tissue pieces.

All the body parts (back, side back, side front, front, front facing) will have to be lengthened by at least 4", which was predicted, but

I don't like the lower lapel shape, it's too large. I prefer slimmer-line lapels. I'm thinking of making the jacket up as is, on that part, and then modifying afterwards, when I can see how the collar sits/lies in that area. Plus, by then I'll have the front facing attached, so all trimming will be done on existent panels/parts.

It shouldn't be too difficult, should it? And less error-prone than tinkering with the tissue pieces on never-tried-before pattern? (No, I'm sorry, I simply don't have the energy to make it up with spare material first.....)

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Date: 7/23/13 2:27 PM

Handshake, yes, you can make the jacket up as it is and then reshape the lapels without too much of a problem as long as you work slowly, methodically and carefully. I have done this on several jackets, and they all turned out all right.

However, I also use a second method to modify the look and style of the collar and lapels on my jackets. With this method make up a test dickie using the upper collar, back neck facing, and the front facing, all from the original pattern. I fold the outer seam allowances down and stitch them. Note that I do this for only one side of the jacket.

Then I place my collar/lapel dickie on another jacket (see photo links below) to determine how much I want to reduce/enlarge/reshape the jacket and lapels by and make these changes on the pattern. Finally, I cut and sew a second dickie to see the results of the modification.

The left side of this photo shows a preliminary preliminary collar/lapel dickie I recently made from the original pattern for a peaked lapel jacket. Note that I have placed this dickie on top of another jacket. Based on this dickie I revised my pattern and then made the dickie pictured below.

The right side of the following photo shows my final collar/lapel dickie. I recently made to check the size of the lapels and the placement of the pinstriped fabric.

It took about a half an hour for me to cut and sew each of the dickies, and I received valuable feedback.



-- Edited on 7/23/13 2:38 PM --

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Date: 7/23/13 2:44 PM

Hi Nancy!

I am SO GLAD I'm not the only one who wants to tinker with paper patterns. I had a look at your photo, it's a good idea and I'll bear it in mind, thank you!

I can visualise the part-constructed jacket: shoulder seams done, collar made up and attached, front facing attached all the way up and around from bottom hem to bottom hem. Turn facing and lapels right way out, try on in front of mirror. (No side seams or sleeves in yet).

Mark narrower lapel width (somehow, I'll figure it), turn front facing to on top again, then get the scissors out and TRIM AWAY that unwanted fat lapel, resew that edge only. (Those edges only - there'll be two)

That's the plan; or maybe I'm being ridiculously naive and it's all going to go pear-shaped.

I tell you, Nancy, the longer this dithering about goes on, the more I think I'm not going to make this jacket at all. I have not even cut the fabric yet! (But I have bought all the things I need to make it - fabric, sewing cotton, shoulder pads, tracing paper, seam binding tape.....and two different patterns so far.)
-- Edited on 7/23/13 2:45 PM --

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Date: 7/23/13 2:58 PM

Handshake,

You plan sounds all right. However, I would first sew the collar and lapels, turn them right side out, check their appearance, turn them inside out again, stitch the new, narrower lapel seamline, and then and only then trim the excess away.

That is, if you trim the excess away before you resew the lapel you will end up with a horrible mess on your hands. You must do your trimming after the second seamline is sewn -- not before.

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Date: 7/23/13 3:44 PM

You are right - of course.

Thank you for pointing that out, I'm so busy that I might have thought of it afterwards.

Nancy, I haven't a hope of the pattern matching up on any of the main seams (it's floral), so now I'm (background-processing, multi-tasking) thinking, perhaps it would be really good if the patch pocket placement matched the front pattern?

Despite all my years of sewing garments and furnishings (I just made a mental list while cooking and it's very long - everything from silk ballgowns through tailored suits, mens' shirts and childrens' clothes (smocked) to curtains and fitted chair covers) I don't think I have ever tried matching patterns on pockets before.

If I have enough fabric, can you point me at a tutorial on matching fabric pattern for pocket placement? (This question is in the wrong thread now, sorry....)

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Date: 7/23/13 5:10 PM

Handshake, I agree that you shouldn't worry about matching the floral pattern on the body of your jacket. But it should be relatively easy to match the print on the pocket and the jacket. I don't know of any tutorials (I tend to make up my own methods). But thinking off the top of my head this is how I would approach the task.

Note that you will cut the two pockets one at a time after the body of the jacket is sewn.

1. After your jacket is sewn, decide where on the jacket you want the pocket to be. This is your target area.
2. Find the general area of your uncut fabric that has the exact print as the target area of your jacket, and cut out a section a couple of inches larger than your pocket piece.
3. Lay this piece of pocket fabric over the target area of your jacket, taking care to match the print exactly. Pin the two layers of the pocket and jacket fabric together securely.
4. Identify exactly where you want your pocket to be. Lay the pocket pattern piece over this area and mark the perimeter cutting line with chalk or pen.
5. Remove the pocket pattern piece and put it aside. Unpin the two layers of pocket and jacket fabric, and separate them.
6. Cut out the pocket fabric following the cutting lines you marked in Step 4.
7. Sew the pocket and attach it to the jacket as you normally would.

If you have followed these steps correctly, the print on your jacket and pocket should match exactly.

Hope this helps. And congratulations on the new Baby Prince!

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Date: 7/23/13 6:09 PM

BRILLIANT REPLY, NANCY!!



That technique is way easier than something I eventually found after a half-hour Google search drilling down to page 5 or 6.

THANK YOU!!!!

You have given me so much heart to get started on this.



ps. The new Baby Prince is nothing to do with me. Healthy couple have child, country goes wild, eh? Here's betting the wee bairn's name will be James. Or Michael. Or George? Philip, perhaps?


-- Edited on 7/23/13 6:12 PM --

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Date: 7/23/13 8:12 PM

Handshake, I'm so glad you think the instructions will be helpful. I love sewing jackets and enjoy thinking about all types of jacket projects, too. I wish you the best of luck with your jacket and hope you'll enjoy sewing and wearing it.

By the way, I've read there's more interest in the royal baby here in the US than across the pond. But I know many Americans are indifferent to it, too. I've heard the baby will probably be named George. I'm sure we'll find out soon enough.

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Date: 7/24/13 1:34 PM

Hi Nancy

This afternoon I carefully lengthened all the body-part pattern pieces by 4 inches, then carefully pressed the fabric.

However, following the cutting layout on the pattern, I did not have enough fabric (now).

Being very tenacious, I then spent a further hour ignoring the suggested cutting layout. I flipped some tissue parts over (east-west, not north-south), since that will make no difference. I measured each part and rearranged them on the fabric whilst still obeying the 'all parts face north' because of the floral pattern. Then I edged them up to my-size cutting line. All this in intense heat here!

An hour later, I have gotten all pattern parts pinned down excepting the back facing which should be on a fold but will have to wait for a large-enough piece to be yielded: it will, I checked, and the pockets.

The pockets, therefore, alas, can be cut, but will be as-they-come, not pattern-matched as desired.

Phew! I deserve a drink!

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Date: 7/24/13 2:25 PM

Handshake, I'm glad to hear you're making progress. It's good you were able to figure out how to squeeze out your jacket from a limited amount of fabric by ignoring the suggested layouts. I never use the layouts (you can see I'm not very good at following orders :D)

Would it be possible for you to buy a extra fabric for the pockets? If not, just cut them as they are. Most likely, no one will even notice.

PS. I just found out the baby's name: George Alexander Louis. Good luck and stay cool!


-- Edited on 7/24/13 2:58 PM --

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