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Need tissue fitting help
sued5320
sued5320
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Subject: Need tissue fitting help (fitting by myself) Date: 7/23/13 10:35 PM

I have the FFRP book. I purchased Butterick B5627 fitting pattern. I tried tissue fitting which didn't go so well. I found some lightweight interfacing with gridmarks and traced the pattern and this is now my new "tissue". I used the alternate D-cup template included with the pattern. (Although this made it longer in the front, the back has not yet been lengthened to match.) I added 2" to the two areas for lengthening the pattern both above and below the bust, but I have basted it back out.

I don't have a fit buddy and am doing this alone and am not sure where to start. Looking at the fit around the armholes, I'm not positive I even have started with the correct size. (16 RTW, 20 pattern size.)

Here are links to the photos. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I would dearly love to make a shirt that fits with my new Bernina!

The shoulder on the front looks too wide to me - it looks to extend out too far. And there's a fold/pleat on the back armhole.

It appears I need to adjust for rounded shoulders and/or a "forward head" (from the FFRP book). The front neckline looks too high.
Front 1
Front 2
Side 1
Side 2
Side 3
Side 4
Back
-- Edited on 7/23/13 10:46 PM --

Nursebennett
Nursebennett
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Date: 7/23/13 11:36 PM

I find choosing a pattern based on my high bust measurement to fit in the neck and shoulders my best choice. I then do a full bust adjustment. Also, the darts should end 1-1/2 to 2 inches from the apex of your bust. It's hard for me to tell much as your torso is turned in the pictures and that affects the hang of the garment. I feel your pain on having to fit yourself by yourself. Good luck to you!

mistyknits
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In reply to sued5320 <<


Date: 7/24/13 7:03 AM

Ugh, I typed a bunch and think I lost it. Apologize if it posts twice. Anyways..

I often have similar issues in the front shoulder and armsyce area. These are the adjustments I do. Some are learned from "proper" sources (books, classes, etc.) and some were through trial and error.

#1- I cut a line perpendicular to the grain, straight through, somewhere in the upper 2/3rds of the armsyce. I lengthen it by an inch or more depending on the style of bodice. Lengthen the back the same amount in the same area. (The books say to add the same amount to the sleeve head, but I rarely do as I often remove ease in my sleeve cap anyway). Adding length will lower the armsyce under your armpit, drop your darts a bit and give you some ease necessary to move your arms comfortably.

#2. On your muslin, mark where your shoulder should be then take your French curve and redraw the armsyce curve from that new shoulder mark blending somewhere around the bottom third of the armsyce. Depending on how much I narrow the outside edge of the shoulder, I can sometimes ease the shoulder seams. If the amount is significant, I carve a bit off the back side of the armsyce on the back bodice. Depending on how much you carve out of the front and back, you may need to reflect those changes to the sleeve. If its not much, I often do nothing to the sleeve. (Disclaimer: Probably, the proper way would be a narrow shoulder adjustment, but I do it this way because my shoulders are really narrow.)

#3. Do the same as #2 but at the neck. Mark it, redraw it, blend to back.

Here is a nice article from Threads with good info on bodice fitting: http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4483/to-get-the-right-armhole-fit-the-bodice/page/all

Tarrbaby
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Date: 7/24/13 7:29 AM

May I recommend an online class I found helpful? Craftsy has fast fitting by Joi Mahon and she walks you through a fitting pattern from Vogue which is included in the price of the class. I found her methods very easy and the video format helped make sense for me.

------
Dawn T.

marymary86
marymary86
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Date: 7/24/13 9:21 AM

I'm impressed with the pictures you've been able to take without a helper.

I also think you're off to a great start!

------
Mary


Andsewforth
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Date: 7/24/13 9:34 AM

Looks like you on your road to a very good fit. You've gotten good suggestions on harrowing the shoulder. I'm a Palmer/Pletsch certified instructor & Pati Palmer always tells us 'what you see is what you get' meaning whatever the tissue pattern looks like is what you'll get in the sewn garment, so if you like what you see in tissue, go for it Good luck

lca
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Date: 7/24/13 3:46 PM

This looks pretty good to me! Yes, the shoulders do look a little wide.


-- Edited on 7/24/13 3:54 PM --

Mole Princess
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Date: 7/24/13 5:05 PM

Very close! I think you may need a tiny bit more width in the waist. The CF line appears to be pulling away from CF near the waistline. As your front darts are nicely fitted, you don't want to pull out waist extra from them.

I think you may want to split the needed extra between the side seam and the CF seam, then redraw the grainline to parallel the new CF line.

I'd be interested in what others think on this--should she slash and spread instead for the extra waist width? She has nicely fitted darts and we wouldn't want those to move . . .

JTink
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In reply to sued5320 <<
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Date: 7/24/13 7:06 PM

Honestly, it's hard for me to tell what something is going to look like in paper. I do tissue fit, but only for the big things. For fine tuning and tweaking, I have to have it made up in a muslin. Material is going to fall and act differently than the fitting shell. I would suggest, at this point, make a quick muslin and go from there.

sued5320
sued5320
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Date: 7/24/13 8:49 PM

Progress

*Increased back shoulder dart - seems to help with my rounded shoulder.

*Let out the upper lengthen gusset 1". This helped quite a bit and the front/back waistline almost matches up.

*Lowered the armhole 1/2" at the side seam. Seems to have helped some but I still have that pleat/fold behind my arm in the back.

*The back lays a little better now. The CB looks to be past center. Still makes me wonder if I should be using a pattern a size smaller, but I'll keep going with this for now. (I did buy the pattern based on my high bust measurement.)

I think next I will try changes suggested by mistyknits.

marymary86 - the pictures are actually frame captures from a video taken with my tablet. I have a floor stand for stitchery (that I never use) with a copy stand to hold the pattern. I put it on top of an adjustable tv tray to get more of a level view and then put a piece of elastic around the tablet to keep it from falling off.

Mole Princess - I think some of the pulling in the waist may be from some of the other issues, but I'll keep your suggestion in mind. I probably need more than a "tiny bit". :)

Thanks for the encouraging comments because I thought it looked hopeless.

Sue


-- Edited on 7/24/13 8:51 PM --

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