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Forum > Plus Size Sewing > pattern fitting for the not so perfect body ( Moderated by JEF)

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pattern fitting for the not so perfect body
very little informaiton out there
AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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Iowa USA
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Date: 7/26/13 2:21 PM

I did a Google search to try and find information on how to fit a straight skirt for a large bottom. I didn't find squat.
Granted I am not the best when it comes to searching out information on the net, but still I should have found something.
Then I started thinking about all the classes and workshops I have taken over the years and realized I never saw anyone fit a person who has extreme body area's other than a really full bust.
I am wondering if anyone has seen this done?
Once I finish typing this I will do a search on PR and see if anyone posted something?

The reason I started searching is because I had a gal from my sewing guild come over and we are working on getting a straight skirt to fit her. She had scoliosis and has a big bottom and her waist is way lower in front than in the back. This has been a challenge. We are close to getting a good fit, but will need another muslin, #3 to be tweaked on Monday.

So far I have sliced across the back from side seam to side seam at the fullest part of her bottom and dropped the back of the skirt 2". Back is now hanging straight.

Pinched out 2" at center front. Also had to pinch out almost 2" across the front of the skirt from side seam to side seam to get the hem to be parallel to the floor. I can't remember how many inches down from the waist I had to do this, maybe 5"?

The side seams are still pitching some towards the front and I need to pin more out at the side seam as there is to much fullness in the hip area.

The adjustment I am questioning is the front. Maybe I should have pulled the waist up in front till the hem was parallel to the floor instead of making the pinch? Or does it really matter as long as I have it parallel?

------
Ada

Rhoda K
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Rhoda K  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/26/13 3:18 PM

The book, The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Perfect Fitting by Sarah Veblen, has some information in that area. I found the book to be quite informative in all areas of fitting. There are 10 reviews of this book under Sewing Book Reviews. Good luck.


-- Edited on 7/26/13 3:21 PM --

LauraTS
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LauraTS
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Date: 7/26/13 6:59 PM

Barbara Deckert! She does a plus-sized fitting and design class for Craftsy (I've purchased it but haven't watched the whole thing; lots of PR folks have reported they like it) and also wrote a book a few years ago called Sewing for Plus Sizes. Even if your/your friend's fitting issue isn't a plus-size one, it's a great resource for the less than usual kinds of alterations you may need to make for major figure differences.

The other fitting books I've found helpful are the Veblen one Rhoda mentioned and Betzina's Fast Fit. I have a copy of FFRP but don't tend to use it as much as those two.

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Sickofitcindy
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Sickofitcindy
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Date: 7/26/13 7:04 PM

I like Barbara's Class and Lynda Maynard's classes on fitting on Craftsy.

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 7/26/13 8:54 PM

what you've done here is called Balance adjustment, something I have been talking about on my blog for quite some time. some people think the waist is horizontal, when in fact it is almost always tilted to the front or the back, affecting the way the garment falls. Whether you pinch or take in the length at the waistband does not matter, the result should be the same

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www.iconicpatterns.com

plumfan
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plumfan  Friend of PR
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Illinois USA
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In reply to LauraTS <<


Date: 7/26/13 8:59 PM

I've got Barbara's class and have watched it all the way through. It is a great class but I do not recommend it for bottom fitting. The class is very in-depth when it comes to the waist up, but very sparse on waist down.

She quickly goes through fitting a prominent tummy and I think she says the same technique could be applied to a prominent bottom. The adjustments are only shown on a skirt piece and pretty much involve adding some at the side seam and adding length between the crotch and the waist. I wish she would do another class specifically for pants and skirts.

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Stash in as of Feb. 1, 2014 - 43
2014 Items finished for me - 12
2014 Items for others - 9
Approximate yardage used - 40

sings2high
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sings2high  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/26/13 9:08 PM

And yes, Adah, you did right. The goal is to have a) the grain hanging straight up and down, b) the hem parallel to the ground, and c) the waist sitting on the body all the way around right where it will feel most comfortable and stay put without constant tweaking. And if you have to pattern and cut all four quarters separately to make it fit, so be it. Our obsession with symmetry can be discarded when we deal with our own asymmetrical body parts.
I had a teacher in high school who had one very short arm and all his suits were hand-made just for him. They fit him very well.
Good fit always attracts attention. And bad fit attracts more.

------
Measure twice, cut once. While this saying is useful in many ways, I have no qualms about editing my posts.

UFOs completed in 2014: 1 - woohoo! finished my oldest UFO - an apron cut out in the mid-80s with a pattern from the mid-40s! and the bias binding promptly disintegrated in the wash! Ok, it was from my Great-Grandmother's stash, which means it was bought anytime from the 1910's to 1970's.
Projects started recently completed in 2014: 4
New Projects started in 2014: 5
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sewn in 2014: 5
bought in 2014: 17.25

I know...I'm procrastinating.

ClaireEmily
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ClaireEmily
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Date: 7/27/13 3:51 AM

Sounds like you are nearly there! i have this issue and have in the past used FFRP's large derriere adjustment. it kind of FBA like. Adds length and width and creates a back waist dart. i always need bigger, deeper back waist darts. the FFRP tilted waist is also good. they basically lower the front waist to conform to body.

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Claire - Melbourne, Australia

Quickie
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Quickie
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Date: 7/27/13 6:08 AM

I have the very same issue so I didn't just see it done but I do this kind of work every time
In principle you had about the same thaught that I do. The only thing is: When the changes are so dramatical I devide the misery. I take the length of the sideseam as a startingpoint. Pull up the waist for about half the amount of what is needed, and get rid of the rest in a folded wedge 10 cm below the waist.
For the back the opposite. I add half the needed amount to the centre of the waistline and the rest in a spread wedge, 25 cm below the waistline.Then You draw the front and backlines straight and adapt the side seams. In the font there is in my case not much whidt for a dart, but I try to make a short "mock-dart"or "make-belief"dart. In the back I make more than one dart per pattern part. In this way it fits. But for myself I find it more flattering if I take a centre back seam and cut the pattern near this back- seam from the hem to about the fullest part and add 5-7cm to the hemline. The grainline stays as is. I am sure I have commented on my problems in my reviews


-- Edited on 7/27/13 6:12 AM --
-- Edited on 7/27/13 3:53 PM --

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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Iowa USA
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Date: 7/29/13 3:56 PM



Here are the pictures.
I am not happy with the outcome, granted things fit a ton better.
The side seam is hanging straight it just doesn't look like it in the one picture.
I put the wide elastic around her waist because we wanted to see what it would look like with the waist at a lower level as she does not wear her skirts at her waist.
Here are the altered pattern pieces:

Ignore the pink strip down the middle. At first I pinched out the excess at that location, but it caused other ripples so I ended up taking the excess fabric out at center front, which worked out much better.
In the next picture I overlaid the two pattern pieces. Look at the drop on the center front.
I would like to start over now that I have a better idea of what I am doing. Not sure my model would be willing to do that?

Note: in the one picture some of the pins fell out and that created the drag lines.
-- Edited on 7/29/13 3:58 PM --
I can see from looking at the pictures I messed up on the back side seam. When I did the pattern work on the back of the skirt it created a wedge opening at the waist and I failed to take that amount at the side seam. That caused the back waist to be to big. (duh).
I went back and forth about moving the side seam more towards the back, but when we did that it put the side seam hanging behind her calf and looked odd so I put the side seam back where it is now.
Give me you feed back.
-- Edited on 7/29/13 4:04 PM --

------
Ada

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