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Indie Patterns Cups Sizing?
auntnina
auntnina
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OK USA
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Date: 7/28/13 6:52 PM

I have heard that the Big 4 pattern companies draft for a B cup. At least, that's what I've read-someone please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm assuming that the Big 4 are McCalls, Simplicity, Butterick, and Vogue. Not sure if Burda is one of the biggies too or considered an independent company?

But what about the indie companies? Is there already a thread (or sticky) somewhere around here to use as a reference when selecting size/planning a bust adjustment?

I've recently gone on a pattern buying spree and have picked up designs from Amy Butler, Made by Rae, Colette, Wiksten, Cake, and Sewaholic. I'm also eyeing a few from By Hand London and Sew Liberated, so my spree is not yet over.

I have a pretty good idea of which size to start with based on my upper bust, but don't know how much of a FBA I'm going to need for most of them (though I think the Cake patterns include the info I need) and am not sure how to figure this out.

So, I'm wondering if anyone knows about the cup sizes for any of these pattern companies? Thanks in advance!

(Edited multiple times for typos! Preview is my new friend).


-- Edited on 7/28/13 6:53 PM --
-- Edited on 7/28/13 6:54 PM --
-- Edited on 7/28/13 6:54 PM --
-- Edited on 7/28/13 6:56 PM --

LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/28/13 9:02 PM

I believe that Colette is a C/D cup and I think Sewaholic is still B, maybe C. Cake seems bustier than B but of course she's got all those adjustment lines in her tops so it's essentially a built in FBA.

The others I don't know, but most indie lines are pretty good about responding to questions, so why not email and ask?

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diane s
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diane s  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/28/13 9:32 PM

You did ask for Indy patterns, not usre if you know there are Big 4 with different cup sizes
Simplicity

Vogue

The McCalls and Butterick aren't so easy to find
McCalls

Butterick

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auntnina
auntnina
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OK USA
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Date: 7/28/13 9:42 PM

LauraTS-

Why didn't I think of this? Will start emailing them now and will list the answers here as I receive them.

auntnina
auntnina
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Date: 7/28/13 9:56 PM

Thank you, diane s! Will check those out.

woole bully

woole bully  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/29/13 10:02 AM

look in to silhouette patterns. besides having a more unique way of sizing there are 'web casts' where peggy saggers explains sizing and alterations. very informative. she has a new web cast every 2 weeks. if you catch it you can log in questions during the taping!

Mole Princess
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Date: 7/31/13 8:39 AM

Some of the indie makers plus the Big Four are discussed in this thread on which body type the different pattern companies draft for

The thread covers more than cup size but you will find some info in it, I think.

auntnina
auntnina
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Date: 7/31/13 5:05 PM

I've been getting responses from some of the pattern companies and thought I'd go ahead and post the answers I've received so far:

Colette: C

Made by Rae: B-C

Wiksten: A-C

Sewaholic: B

Cake: Multiple cup sizes in pattern

Amy Butler: B

By Hand London: States they don't draft to a particular cup size. From what I could glean from the pattern sizing information, if I used the size that would fit my waist (which in my case is somewhat proportional to my upper chest and shoulders) I would need to increase the bust by 1 1/2 to 2 inches. My cup size is DDD. Since bust adjustments are done in 1/2 inch increments per cup size (and please, someone correct me if I'm wrong on this), I'm guessing the patterns would fit a B-C?

These are the only independent pattern companies that I contacted (since these are the ones whose patterns I plan on using). If anyone has cup sizing info about other indie patterns, please feel free to share!

I also found some pattern specific fitting guides:

Made by Rae fitting guide for the Washi Dress that includes advice on bust adjustments:

Washi Dress Fit Guide

Colette has several tutorials for adjusting the busts of their patterns. Here's the newest one:

Hawthorn Bust Adjustments

By Hand London tutorial for Elisalex FBA:

Elisalex Full Bust Adjustment

Cake has very thorough fitting guides for each pattern (I'm really looking forward to using these patterns):

Tiramisu Bodice Sizing Guide

Pavlova Sizing Guide

Hummingbird Top Size Guide
-- Edited on 8/1/13 6:15 PM --

CM_Sews
CM_Sews
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Date: 7/31/13 5:37 PM

According to Kwik Sew:

BUST SIZE
KWIK•SEW patterns are designed to fit the following cup sizes (approximately):

Misses' sizes
XS & S = B cup, M = C cup, L & XL = D cup

Women's sizes
1X = D cup, 2X & 3X = DD, 4X = DDD

See Kwik Measuring and Pattern Alteration Guide (opens a PDF), page 12. This document is available on the Kwik Sew Resources web page, which provides other tips and guides for sewing with Kwik Sew patterns.

CMC

thefunimalist
thefunimalist
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Date: 7/31/13 7:59 PM

What do these cup sizes even mean? Bra cup size is determined by the difference between full bust and under bust measurements, but the difference between full bust and high bust is what's critical for sewing patterns. When indie pattern companies report that their patterns are drafted for a particular cup size, do we know that they are all using the same frame of reference?

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