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Message Board > Fitting Woes > fitting a skirt w/large derriere ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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fitting a skirt w/large derriere
AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/29/13 4:15 PM

Please go to the "Plus Size Sewing" board under "Pattern fitting for the not so perfect body". I probably should have posted it here so more people will look at the issues I am having. I am helping a sewing friend get a skirt to fit.
It has been a learning experience for me as I have no butt and this gal does.
She is very please with the fit as she said she never has had a skirt where the hem is parallel to the floor. I did manage to make that happen but I still have issues.

------
Ada

solosmocker
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solosmocker
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Date: 8/8/13 5:28 PM

Well, I think you should have posted it here. Is she plus size? This is an issue I had as younger and I have never been plus size. You can have some good sized booty and not be overweight. We are all different.

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DonnaH
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DonnaH
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Date: 8/8/13 5:43 PM

Isn't it sort of like an FBA? Maybe an upside down FBA?

You need more width, but also more length (just like an FBA, lol).

I have a pretty flat butt (and a tummy that sticks out at least as much), so I'm really not much help with keeping a skirt even!

wenznz
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thumbsup 3 members like this.
Date: 8/9/13 6:00 AM

Yup, a Full Booty Adjustment

A great tutorial here that I have used with great success!

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Wendy
Wellington, New Zealand

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/9/13 11:02 AM




something I just noticed as I was including the photos. Her body is tilted forward. It was difficult to get the hip balance line parallel to the floor. Also I figured out why I had such a hard time with the back darts. Once I transferred the alteration on the muslin to the pattern, I didn't deal with the wedge at the waistline. I need to take that amount out at the side seam.
Always a learning experience.

------
Ada

SewJoyfulNV
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Date: 8/9/13 12:40 PM

Hi, even though I am a normal weight, I also have "full" hips/behind and am "tilted" at the waist similar to the picture. In addition to giving myself a little extra room in the back with patterns, I always have to adjust the front waist by shortening it at the top. I have to shorten skirts and pants by cutting off 1-1/2 inches at center front and then tapering out to zero to meet the side seams. If I do not do this my skirt hems will always be shorter in back and longer in front no matter what else I do and no matter what my current weight is. On pants if I don't do this, the front crotch will be too long. It's a bone structure thing for me. Hope this helps!












-- Edited on 8/9/13 12:42 PM --
-- Edited on 8/9/13 12:43 PM --

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"I sing behind the plow..."

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Quickie
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Quickie
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Date: 8/11/13 9:58 AM

Well this is a nice collection of solutions to a not so simple issue
To make a summary:
Ada and wenznz use a method of Linda Maynard.
In the plus size section Lena Merrin points to a tutorial on her blogher blog. I knew that method. It is also used by Rundschau.

Both methods work but when the problem gets more and more, the darts to the waistline grow also and you cannot keep deviding them to the ultimate limit.
I had the wish to have a formed waistband so I did not want so much distortion. So my solution for this time is different. For those who want to know:

Here my cup of tea
.
This solution is not advisable for a skirt with vertical stripes............but in this case it worked

-- Edited on 8/11/13 10:11 AM --
-- Edited on 8/11/13 2:52 PM --

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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In reply to Quickie <<


Date: 8/11/13 1:25 PM

quickie, I can not get you link to work. When I click on the link it bounces up.

The gal I am fitting wanted her waist 3" lower than her normal waist so a lot of my dart issues were resolved when moving the waist down. I did have to sung up the side seam after moving the waist down.

I hope she will make the skirt in a fashion fabric so I can see what it will look like finished.
-- Edited on 8/11/13 1:29 PM --
-- Edited on 8/11/13 1:30 PM --

------
Ada

Quickie
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Quickie
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Date: 8/11/13 2:36 PM

Please try
Here my cup of tea
I first had a link to picasa and now it is to Google+
I don't know why there is a problem.
I hope that it is solved now.
I hope that your friend will sew the skirt. She is not so disproportioned as i am, but for her also this type of adaptation will be a good solution
-- Edited on 8/11/13 2:46 PM --

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