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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Double breasted morphed to single breasted

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Double breasted morphed to single breasted
altering a coat pattern
CathrynR
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CathrynR
New Hampshire USA
Member since 6/26/08
Posts: 809
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 7/30/13 11:19 AM

Double breasted styles just do not look good on me, accentuating a large breast/short waist shape. But I see many double-breasted styles that "if only" were single breasted I would love to sew up. Has anyone made this design change, and was it difficult? Any ideas on how to go about it?
nancy2001
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nancy2001
Member since 12/3/05
Posts: 6455
Skill: Advanced
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In reply to CathrynR

Date: 7/30/13 12:20 PM

Yes. I've done it both ways, single breasted to double breasted and double breasted to single breasted. It's not easy, but it's doable, depending on your pattern making skills and interest level.

I tinker around with my own self drafted and frankenpatterned jacket patterns, and do all my revisions by trial and error. It usually takes me several muslins before I'm satisfied. Obviously, you will need to reduce the jacket overlap. But what you might not realize is that by reducing the jacket overlap, your lapel roll line, lapel break point, and the collar will also change. It's a little like trigonometry.

To get a feel for what I'm talking about, try on a double breasted jacket (or put it on a dress form), fold the extended overlap under and see how this affects the lapels and collar. Let your eyes and hands do the thinking.

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