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Forum > Fitting Woes > Blouse feels tight, but I can't identify where to adjust ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Blouse feels tight, but I can't identify where to adjust
McCall's 2255 w/ empire seams (multi-cup pattern)
cimmanon
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Date: 8/3/13 8:50 AM

I did this blouse a few years ago when I was certain I was a 32B, so I used the A/B pattern piece for a size 8. Last year my husband insists I've been wearing the wrong bra size all these years and takes my measurements multiple times to confirm. Lo and behold I am a 28D!



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I know there's not enough ease in the waist area for my taste, and I'd like more room in back through the shoulders, but that's easy to fix. I can't help but feel there's something not quite right above the bust. It feels like there's enough fabric to accommodate my bust when I pinch the side seams, but it looks like it all sits at the side instead of going where it needs to. Where the shoulders meet the sleevecap feels like it is in the right spot.

Would using the larger cup size pattern piece solve my fitting problems or is there something more that needs to be done? Comparing the A/B piece to the C and D pieces, the armscye has a more closed shape from the notch to the sideseam, is longer vertically from shoulder seam to under the bust, and of course longer along the bottom edge for each increase in cup size.
-- Edited on 8/3/13 9:02 AM --

Marie367
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Date: 8/3/13 9:05 AM

What does the back look like? The whole problem may be there as the back effects the front. The front looks good from the picture.

sued5320
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Subject: Blouse feels tight, but I cant identify where to adjust Date: 8/3/13 9:35 AM

I see a dragline(?) from the shoulders angling towards the bust on both sides. I have a hard time figuring out how to resolve the wrinkles I "read" in a garment.

When you stretch a bias fold (shoulder to bust generally follows the bias), it looks similar to that dragline I noted. Therefore, it must be pulling from shoulder to bust - right? The question is how to fix that.

cimmanon
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Date: 8/3/13 10:24 AM

Quote: Marie367
What does the back look like? The whole problem may be there as the back effects the front. The front looks good from the picture.

This is what the back looks like. It looks fine across the shoulder blades, it just feels a bit tight when I reach forward right around the undeararm seam. Maybe that's how it's supposed to fit and I'm just used to having lots of freedom there because no RTW ever fits me properly through the shoulders/above the bust.



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Debbie Lancaster
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Subject: Blouse feels tight, but I cant identify where to adjust Date: 8/3/13 10:49 AM

From the draglines on the front that sued pointed out, I thought maybe your shoulders were squarer than usual, but the back proves that's not it.

To me it looks like the empire waist is a little bit too high so that it's pulling down in the front from the shoulders to the bust.

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beauturbo
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Date: 8/3/13 11:26 AM

I think it's because of the way the arm hole and sleeve is set in there. And maybe it feels kind of tight as you don't really have more complete and full arm movement when wearing it.

As a test try with arms out stretched in front of you, at bust level, and then you bringing both hands together and then even touching opposite shoulders with them, and see if you can even do that while wearing it or how it bunches up then. Also try putting both arms straight out in the air to your sides, and then windmilling them around like that, or lifting arms above your head, and see if it pulls the whole shirt up a lot even at the hem edge of it that way.

If so, it has to do with the arm hole and sleeve set, as it does not look tight on you actually anyplace at all to me. Possibly to be more comfortable and give you more full arm movement, the actual armhole in the bodice, needs to be even closer set to your body there?

I just think this because non knit clothes that happen to not let me, have more full range of arm movement bug me. And do feel tight on me. And I think I recognize that pulling factor across the upper bust there, as being what it looks like, if I ever get a sleeve like that.

Try holding the top of the sleeve cap and making a tuck about even an total inch deep behind it on the shoulder seam there, and see if all of sudden some of that, improves your ability to move your arms in it. If so, that is not going to make it any smaller or closer to your body under the arm (as no fabric to do that with) but might improve things. Also kind of why I buy patterns a certain size, since I know they fit my shoulders too often.


-- Edited on 8/3/13 11:38 AM --

sued5320
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Subject: Blouse feels tight, but I cant identify where to adjust Date: 8/3/13 11:43 AM

What are the differences between high bust and full bust measurements? If it's >2" then is a B-cup pattern the correct size?

I remember reading somewhere that each additional 1" in that difference goes up in cup size. I don't think pattern cup sizes and bra cup sizes are necessarily the same.

rebe
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Subject: Blouse feels tight, but I cant identify where to adjust Date: 8/3/13 3:16 PM

It looks like your armhole is too low. You probably need to raise it about 1 to 1.5 inches.

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ccris
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Date: 8/3/13 3:16 PM

Love the style and fabric print. Even though it might not be comfortable, it's certainly wearable. Geez, you're a tiny thing! wink

I'll tell you what I see from your pictures (you probably should take other pics of the front and back that are straight on instead of on an angle).

Your shoulder blades protrude a little more than average. A shoulder dart would probably give you that extra bit of fabric you need in that area. Your right shoulder is lower than your left one. The left shoulder looks slightly square, while the right one looks to be sloped. The pics were taken on a slight angle making it look worse than it really is.

I agree with Debbie that your front empire line needs to be a little bit lower, however, the line looks good in the back. You could probably just add length in the front above the empire line. I'm not a fitting guru, so take what I say with a grain of salt. Wait for others to chime in with what they see.

Edited here......I reversed which shoulder was sloped and which one was square. It's corrected now. Sorry for the confusion.


-- Edited on 8/3/13 4:57 PM --

Miss Fairchild
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Date: 8/3/13 7:08 PM

Here's my two cents. Debbie is right--the blouse looks a little too high at the empire line. But if I visualize an FBA on this blouse, as it stands with the B cup size, that will make that drop a little in the front, which is what you need. And you will need a little more across the bust mound to remove the tightness.

I have a feeling that your shoulder to bust is a little longer than the pattern, and the fullness of the lower part your bust mount hits right about where the seam is; it shouldn't. That seam should cup the bust more. This is also pointed out at the armscye where your bust hits. The bust is grabbing fabric from the armscye and it's making the fabric in this area bind. I'm an "empire gal" from the 60's and this style is very familiar to me.

So my thought is to use a larger cup size. That will take care of the FBA.

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